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Post by worm0527 on Apr 29, 2016 1:46:22 GMT -5
I have a 150cc Peace Sport retro style scooter. My scooter stopped cranking but when I would jump it off and it would fire right up having to give it gas it would stay running (if it sgut off I would have to jump it again). I rode it still, then it just completely stopped running jumping it off wouldnt even work. I have replaced the stator, starter motor, starter solenoid relay, cdi, spark plug,ignition coil, and new battery.(and I also replaced my variator because I needed a new one). After all that it finally started up but did not stay running. It does and would not start back up. So I decided to order a new carb also (wasnt sure if old gas messed up the carb). Please help! Needing some advice......
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 29, 2016 2:16:04 GMT -5
After changing all that, it's time to look internally. First, check your valve lash, should be .004 each. Next, check your compression, if you don't have a compression tester, remove the spark plug and place your thumb over the hole, crank it, it should blow your thumb off (not literally, but it should move your thumb).
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Post by worm0527 on Apr 29, 2016 2:24:01 GMT -5
I have checked the spark plug hole and it did do that and alsoi can smell gas. As far as valves I am a little nerves about doing that only because I have never messed with that before. Amd also my headlight was not coming on when running my high beam worked but my low beams ( which isually turn on when I turn key) didnt. And also the new carb has not been put on just yet. But if the new carb doesnt work I should lok at the valves?
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 29, 2016 3:06:50 GMT -5
Don't let valves scare ya, they are a common issue with the gy6 (cheap Chinese metals are soft), so it's good to know how to set them.
-be sure your engine is completely cold, do it before riding after cooling down all night
-loosen the retaining nut
-back out the screw till you can push the feeler gauge under it (put oil on the feeler first)
-tighten down the screw till there is some drag on the feeler gauge when you move it
-hold the screw in place with pliers while you tighten the retaining nut
-check that the feeler gauge still has drag when you move it
-try to put the next size larger feeler gauge in, it shouldn't go in
Put the scooter back together, fire her up, listen. Light tapping is ok, clackety is too loose. There are lots of good videos showing how it's done, here in our video section, and on YouTube.
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Post by rockynv on Apr 29, 2016 4:21:34 GMT -5
I don't know. It almost sounds like your rectifier or voltage regulator is bad so the engine is not giving the battery enough charge to keep it running. What is the voltage like at the battery when it does start? Did you put the old battery on a charger or have it tested before replacing it? What did checking the fuses and low beam bulb with a meter reveal?
You have to stop throwing parts at the bike and do a root cause analysis as the new parts are just going to muddle things up if one is defective or if you break something else while installing them leaving you with a new problem in addition to the original one which could have simply been voltage regulator or rectifier preventing the battery from charging and the light from coming on.
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Post by worm0527 on Apr 29, 2016 15:09:37 GMT -5
Im trying not to throw parts at it. It been since last november that this has happened and over that period of time those are the parts I have put on in there. And I dont have a melmeter to check the voltage. And with the valves do I have to put the engine a certian way? I wanted to rebuild this scooter anyways. I bought it used with 9,000 miles on it.
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Post by gy6er on Apr 29, 2016 15:24:15 GMT -5
Stop look listen Haaahhhhh
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Post by JerryScript on Apr 29, 2016 21:05:35 GMT -5
Yes, you have to turn the engine so that the timing mark on the flywheel is aligned with the notch in the housing, and the can hikes are visible. Best to watch videos to see.
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Post by tankcommander on Apr 29, 2016 22:07:56 GMT -5
Can you find somebody to help you? Any scooter clubs in your area?
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Post by larrball on Apr 29, 2016 22:26:05 GMT -5
Don't let valves scare ya, they are a common issue with the gy6 (cheap Chinese metals are soft), so it's good to know how to set them. -be sure your engine is completely cold, do it before riding after cooling down all night -loosen the retaining nut -back out the screw till you can push the feeler gauge under it (put oil on the feeler first) -tighten down the screw till there is some drag on the feeler gauge when you move it -hold the screw in place with pliers while you tighten the retaining nut -check that the feeler gauge still has drag when you move it -try to put the next size larger feeler gauge in, it shouldn't go in Put the scooter back together, fire her up, listen. Light tapping is ok, clackety is too loose. There are lots of good videos showing how it's done, here in our video section, and on YouTube. I think you should look at what jerry has to say first. You spent more money then most of us have in 2 years owning a china scooter and most of them come new as you being the last point in QA (Quality assurance) and most need a valve adjustment less the 200 KM from the shipping crate. Lets watch a video and see if you feel up to adjusting the valve on your scooter, it's not hard and if you'r not up to it then at least you know. -------------------------------------------------------------------
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Post by rockynv on Apr 29, 2016 22:58:48 GMT -5
Im trying not to throw parts at it. It been since last november that this has happened and over that period of time those are the parts I have put on in there. And I dont have a melmeter to check the voltage. And with the valves do I have to put the engine a certian way? I wanted to rebuild this scooter anyways. I bought it used with 9,000 miles on it. Less than $20 and could have saved you from buying parts you did not need. $6 at Harbor Frieght: www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html$9 at Home Depot: www.homedepot.com/p/Power-Gear-Analog-Multimeter-50952/203735783$12 at Lowes: www.lowes.com/pd_464297-295-10010S_1z0vixhZ1z0yt4x__?productId=50125847&Ns=p_product_price|0&pl=1&Ntt=meter$19 at Walmart: www.walmart.com/ip/Digital-Multimeter-10709/14521541Pains me that a meter is so inexpensive yet folks dish out so much cash, time and effort chasing problems with guesswork and parts that they likely did not really need that even the $6 meter from Harbor Freight could have saved them from. I am very sincere when I tell you the $6 meter from Harbor Freight could have saved you much more than you paid for it if you had purchased it before replacing anything on the bike. If you get on their mailing list sometimes you will get a coupon that will get you one as a free gift when you make any other purchase at one of their stores even if its a $1 or $2 flashlight or some other small item. Engine must sit at least overnight without having been started before doing a valve adjustment. Timing marks have to be aligned with the piston on its compression stroke when adjusting the valves. A little loose is better than a little tight because when they are too tight they may not stay closed long and solidly enough to transfer their heat to the head to cool them off. If you do a lot of riding over 40 mph valves can require adjusting at every other 500 mile oil change which is every 1,000 miles. That turned out to be monthly for me when I had a GY6 150.
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Post by worm0527 on Apr 30, 2016 21:08:08 GMT -5
Im trying not to throw parts at it. It been since last november that this has happened and over that period of time those are the parts I have put on in there. And I dont have a melmeter to check the voltage. And with the valves do I have to put the engine a certian way? I wanted to rebuild this scooter anyways. I bought it used with 9,000 miles on it.
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