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Post by scooter on Oct 30, 2014 0:11:11 GMT -5
Your cam choice really depends on what you are trying to achieve. I chose the A11 because according to the chart it has one of the highest amounts of torque mixed with the highest amount of HP. It's even higher than the A9. But it tops out at 8k RPMS where the A9 tops out at 8500. Now if I was interested in top end speed I would choose the A9. But having said that my setup still hits 60 MPH at about 7200 rpms, so I still, even at that speed, have more power to go. wildswede.se/Baotian/Cam_horsepower2.jpgThat makes sense. The A11 has the most hastkrafter all throughout the usable motorvarv range. How does using that cam affect compression, my starter, strain on the engine components, and also you said you had to grind out your piston to make room for the lift of the cam? |
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Post by scooter on Oct 29, 2014 16:24:19 GMT -5
I'm already good on the exhaust. I have one of these new fangled Varimuff Hi-Flow mufflers.  |
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Post by scooter on Oct 29, 2014 16:17:27 GMT -5
Alright guys and gals, I have a $500 budget for getting the most HP/tq out of a 150cc g6. Current setup is a stock gy6 engine. Cvt has a larger variator and drive face, hoca clutch and torque sleeve. I have clutch springs already and a yellow contra spring. What engine, intake, and exhaust parts should I get? Engine code 1p57qmj, dual shock rear drum brakes. Use some of the money to convert the brake to disk and then blow the rest at your local "dance" club. Or you could buy one of those cheap ebay bbk kits and a case boring tool. |
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Post by scooter on Oct 29, 2014 16:04:22 GMT -5
I am actually using rustoluem lacquer. What I found is you want to put that first coat on very light.... then run heaver a heavier coat. Leave it sit overnight, wet sand with 800 touch up or add a coat if needed sand 800 again, then clear... The clear coat is key to protecting the paint and it really does make the finish much more durable. Are you using a lacquer clear or something else? |
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Post by scooter on Oct 29, 2014 16:01:57 GMT -5
Perhaps you could send Shannen your seat, along with one of these pads, and he could fix you up. It's funny this topic has come up cause I'm begging to regret my choice of leather on my seat. It's so thick that it negates a lot of the original padding in my seat. It's more like a saddle than a comfy seat. I can ride for about an hour before my butt starts to feel some pain. Putting any of these squishy seat pads under the leather would be a waist. There are lots of softer and thinner leathers you can use and also vinyl of course. I made a beautiful seat/upholstery for my old mustang, nicer than the original, with fancy stitching to boot, plus boat cushions and other goodies over the years. I noticed your seat looked like saddle leather but you can do all kinds of things with lighter leathers and vinyl. |
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Post by scooter on Oct 29, 2014 5:23:18 GMT -5
I really don't need any more power, but I'm thinking of replacing my head because of some stripped threads. So I'm thinking, "while you're down there"...
Maybe I could put in a bigger cam for a more hot rod sound, or a slightly bigger cylinder, because, hey, maybe mine is worn anyway. And do I need that stroker crank? Why or why not? (I like the sound of Shannen's scooter. Nice job man.)
I figure at the least, if I do anything at all, I'll want new rings and a new head, and the head is going to come with new valves, and for a few more bucks I can have a new cylinder and cam, but I don't know what I want.
How do you choose what kind of things to put in and on your engine?
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Post by scooter on Oct 29, 2014 2:42:59 GMT -5
Let me ask you guys a question. I painted a part on my bike with lacquer out of a can. After a week or two it was dry enough that it didn't "mush" when I pressed my thumb into it. It had a ton of orange peel. I sanded that of and polished it with rubbing and then polishing compound. I waxed it and it looked fine. Then I added a second coat of wax and forgot about it for a while. When I came back, I couldn't get the haze off. It was as though it was embedded into the paint. I ended up scotchbrighting it off. What's going on there? urbanmadness surfpick oldchopperguy |
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Post by scooter on Oct 29, 2014 2:37:56 GMT -5
Ooooweeee! That is going to be one sharp looking bike right there now!
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Post by scooter on Oct 29, 2014 0:34:14 GMT -5
Well... ONE last report on the "Motor City" paint...Since the initial paint turned out to be durable (as in no cracking or peeling) I went ahead and cleaned the sidewalls, and applied another two good coats to make the semi-transparent paint fully opaque-white. OOOH-KAYYY... The new paint went on snowy-white, and actually thick enough to begin to "hide" the factory lettering on the tire. Two days pass, and... Once again, it's thinned-out! The lettering is again visible, AND the paint is once again slightly transparent! This stuff disappears like Houdini... LOL!I've never seen anything quite like it... No matter HOW thick it is, in a few days, it seems to have about 50% evaporated into thin air! Duh... It's like disappearing ink... LOL!However, it doesn't look bad. Just very slightly "dirty" as a rear cycle whitewall usually looks anyway. So long as I only "clean" the front factory whitewall, NOT bleaching the bejeebers out of it with Wesley's... The two tires look dang-near the same. Not "snowy-fresh" but sorta "average-daily-driver-whitewall-gray".I'd say I'm about  % satisfied with the look... Still a whole, WHOLE lot better-looking than the black-walls. It's "perfect" for the "rat-bike" look, but still, "quite-acceptable" for my grocery-getter (or ANY scooter used regularly, and usually having a little bit of "normal" road-dirt on it). It's NOT going to make you happy if used on a show-quality bike that's kept hospital-pristine-clean. Leo, if you have any left over, perhaps you could try adding some titanium dioxide to it. They sell it rather cheap on ebay. Maybe do two or three concentrations and put them on the inside of your car tire or on someone else's tire for testing, to see how much you can add without it peeling, and to see how it looks when dry. |
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Post by scooter on Oct 28, 2014 23:50:06 GMT -5
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Post by scooter on Oct 28, 2014 22:15:56 GMT -5
Update:Back on the road again!!!Regulator arrived from China (12days) yesterday and installed this morning, voila! Let there be light! Headlights came on at start-up all systems go! Took a ride around town, the weather is sunny and cool mornings(72) now, great scooter riding weather here in S.Florida. The good life has returned for me! Good job, Savy. Have a bone! That's a neat scooter. What's it like to drive? Have you taken it out in the rain? |
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Post by scooter on Oct 28, 2014 22:09:54 GMT -5
I think Cissy got me watching this show as a kid. She was 21 when the show started.  Then there was Victoria and Audra of Big Valley. Audra was the looker but Victoria was everything a woman ought to be.  Of course Stanwyck was hot in her day too.  and Gidget   Looking back, I can see the leading ladies had a good deal to do with why I liked these shows. |
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Post by scooter on Oct 28, 2014 21:20:32 GMT -5
I think I'll hook it up to the shop vac and see what it reads.  |
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Post by scooter on Oct 28, 2014 15:18:18 GMT -5
I went to the dealer to buy some oil and while there I stopped to look at the new Honda PCX 150 before going to the service desk. A sales person asked me if I wanted to take it out for a test ride. I did and I was hooked. I bought the scooter instead of the oil. That's a nice looking bike. I like Hondas a lot. |
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Post by scooter on Oct 27, 2014 23:32:12 GMT -5
Back in the day, women riding side saddle was one of the craziest things I ever saw. So dangerous!
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% satisfied with the look... Still a whole, WHOLE lot better-looking than the black-walls. It's "perfect" for the "rat-bike" look, but still, "quite-acceptable" for my grocery-getter (or ANY scooter used regularly, and usually having a little bit of "normal" road-dirt on it). It's NOT going to make you happy if used on a show-quality bike that's kept hospital-pristine-clean.
