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HELP ME LOL
by: skuttadawg - Mar 28, 2014 20:44:39 GMT -5
Post by skuttadawg on Mar 28, 2014 20:44:39 GMT -5
I would think the weights and belt are worn out too . I would do a compression test as being that old it may need new rings .
My buddys Elite takes off like a forklift very fast then slows down around 20 and tops at 30 . It is stock . I put 1.5k clutch springs in my 2T and wow takeoff was so much better as the springs engage 1.5k higher of RPMs than the stock ones . I had an Elite when I was young and it had more pep than my Tomos Bullets ( pedal mopeds ) , same top end but it went faster uphill .
I later bought a hot rod Spree with a 90cc engine man it was a beast . I never had a single issue not even a bulb going out .
Take a look at the clutch pads to see if they are worn or glazed up . With a 2T I always prefer to run rich than dead on it . A tuned pipe , upjetting or larger carb can do wonders once you get the jetting dialed in . Hondas usually have a Mikuni oil pump which should last forever . Just hope the oil tank does not leak as they will crack with age . I had Honda Express , Urban Express and Yamaha Towney and never had any problems other than tires wearing out . The rest of my moped collection were the pedal types like Tomos , Puch , Garreli and Motobecane which were premix of 50 to 1 or 3oz per gallon . A new NGK sparkplug can also do wonders . I opt to get the NGK iridiums as they fire better and not as likely to get fouled out by oil build up . The weed eater oil can do this as well as smoke all the time . The synthetic blend and full synthetics smoke at start up as hardly to none once warm and less likely to foul the plug as the cheap oils .
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Post by skuttadawg on Mar 28, 2014 20:24:22 GMT -5
Reminds me of the cycles on Terminator 4 except for the backrest which ruins the look . I hope it is detachable as it would be in the way for a passenger .
I bet it would cost so much that you could get a Shadow or other cruiser motorcycle for the same amount
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Post by skuttadawg on Mar 28, 2014 20:21:30 GMT -5
Well it would help if you knew what weight yours came with as a base . Since worn if you weigh them they will weigh less than when new . If you have the extra cash get both . You can try one then the other plus have the option to mix them up half 18g and half 21g to equal 19.5g .
I prefer sliders over rollers since they perform better , last longer and do not make that rattle sound as much as rollers . I use Dr Pulley sliders in both of my scoots . I would grease the clutch shaft too while it is apart .
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tire size
by: skuttadawg - Mar 28, 2014 19:04:13 GMT -5
Post by skuttadawg on Mar 28, 2014 19:04:13 GMT -5
My dealer suggested the Michelin Pure Sc since it has a hard compound in the middle for long life and softer material on the shoulder to grip better . I also was interested in the other Michelins too . I got it down to the Avons and Pirellis and went with Pirrellis so that shipping would be free . Orders 99 or more have free shipping . JR thanks for the link as you saved me 40 dollars as I was about to get em elsewhere . My dealer told me 87 each and I laughed . CycleGear wanted 64 plus 3 to get it sent to their store . My dealer and other shops only had generic tires that were J rated . The Pirrellis and Avons both are reinforced and P rated to  MPH |
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Post by skuttadawg on Mar 28, 2014 18:51:51 GMT -5
In SC the magnets do not work at we use weight sensors . I bought a Green Light Trigger which is a magnet that you hang underneath the body . I try to pull up real far and have a car behind me move up closer to me in order to trip the sensors at certain places . In SC if you are on two wheels , after a two minute wait and if it is clear , you can legally run through a red light . I have seen cars follow me but they are not included in this legal loop . Some times I stop just before a redlight and let a car get pole position when traffic is heavy .
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Post by skuttadawg on Mar 25, 2014 23:32:09 GMT -5
Doublert how does it compare to the stock variator ? Try sliders instead of rollers before you sell it . I heard good things about Koso as I am looking to get one for my 2T and test it out .
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tire size
by: skuttadawg - Mar 25, 2014 23:29:28 GMT -5
Post by skuttadawg on Mar 25, 2014 23:29:28 GMT -5
You would have to measure the clearances FIRST before going with another tire size . There is plenty of 130/60/13 tires out there Here some examples tires . I like how that place has it so easy to look up tires by size and change the parameters if desired . CycleGear , Amazon and Ebay are other sources . I must say I prefer the ride and handling of 130/60/13s much more than 10x3.5 or my 16s on my Echarm . Mine came with the street knobby tread so it reminds me of an old school minibike . Here is a visual calculator where you can compare two diff sizes together to get an idea tire calculator I would also ride out to any or all local shops who sell tires so you see first hand the diff in sizes . I know CycleGear will only mount tires just 10mm wider than stock . The 70s may soften up the ride a bit with the taller sidewalls . |
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Post by skuttadawg on Mar 25, 2014 23:16:57 GMT -5
Have you tried using slider weights ? I have Dr Pulley sliders in both of my scoots and they perform so much bettr than rollers . On my 150 I gained 5 MPH on top end and had a better acceleration curve . Sliders can push the belt out better and last longer too . Running at 6,500 you should be ok . If you get to a desired speed often you can let up off of the throttle and maintain speed with a 500 to 1000 RPM drop . You may opt for a taller gear set but will need to use lighter weights . The contra also called torque is often changed on small scoots to help when going uphill . A 150 the stock should work fine . My 150 I only replaced the factory rollers with sliders and the factory belt with a Bando at 12k miles . I am curious how it would do with 1k or 1.5k clutch springs as it already has takeoff so fast I out ran many cars on the holeshot . I do have 1.5k clutch springs , sliders , a Hoca BB torque spring base ( which keeps the spring from binding with the BBs and improves " shifts " ) on my 2T but after I go past 45 it starts to feel like under drive as I can go up a large steep hill while hitting 9k RPMs . I also plan on taller gears once my outside work takes of this spring .
I know a 50 is great for around the block and to a store nearby , but not all that for highway use . Yes a 150 even stock has enough power to get you around ( would not get on interstates as I did a few times for only a few miles at a time but it is a suicide mission ) with yours being a hot rod it should keep up with traffic without being maxed out .
In SC I have seen many 150s and few 250s with a generic moped tag instead of a MC tag like required by law . Even my 2T 50 with BBK has a MC tag since I have insurance and it goes past the 30 MPH moped speed restriction . In SC you can get a MC tag on a 50 with only a moped license with automotive license on suspension . Well mostly in the city limits of nearby places the cops have started to crack down on those with a moped tag who go faster than 30 MPH . I know a few who got pulled over and ether went to jail for no license , registration or insurance or had 1,400 in fines along with a DUS which can make your suspension get extended longer . It is not worth the risk having a daily driver which is illegal . I am not the scooter police or a rat , but I only want to tell you to be extra careful and try to stay at your states moped speed limit unless you have a safe stretch to have a lil fun . It would suck if you got pulled over and in a jam just before you are eligible to get your license reinstated .
Now a 2T with a CVT ( not so on the single speed with chain drive ) you would be surprised how even stock they run faster than a 4T . With just a few mods I have outran 3 150s , went neck with a few and had 3 other 150s outrun me on the top end . I dust them on takeoff and most at midrange but after so fast it is screaming as to needing a taller gear set . Most run 4 or 5g I run 8g and have to be light on the throttle when going downhill instead of winding it out like most can . Even bone stock it went up hill very well with me being 200 lbs . I tried to put in a 1.5k contra but I could not compress the sheave . When it was new I had a moped tag but hated how I got " Get off the road ! " and other " DUI " hate . I never have gotten a DUI or almost never drink unless its an occasion . I registered it as a motorcycle not only to get insurance but to stop the " liquor cycle BS " from ignorant cagers . So far with MC tag I have not gotten the hate but I do drive many bonkers when I take off fast or pass by them as many insist on speeding up even if I am speeding . I call it the " I am not letting a moped outrun me " syndrome . Of course it is more fun with my 150 . With a 2T you do not have to worry about the legal issues required with a 150 . A BBK is cheaper an easier to install and I have not heard of anyone locally with a 50 with BBK having the cops do a engine teardown to measure the displacement . Be very careful and remember to wear a helmet to keep you safe and have one less reason to get pulled over .
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Post by skuttadawg on Mar 15, 2014 8:04:12 GMT -5
Haha you can have my scooter if you can open my locks with an aluminum can . When I say ubolt not like standard padlocks but these are huge
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Post by skuttadawg on Mar 14, 2014 21:36:12 GMT -5
Too much oil can surprising not be good as one would think . If you want to use oil injector I would replace the stock pump with a Mikuni pump . Premix is a hassle but a safer sure bet . Here is oil pump adjustment tips oil pump which was written by a guru and great buddy |
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Post by skuttadawg on Mar 14, 2014 21:31:01 GMT -5
Do a compression test as it should be 120 PSI or more . If you ran low on oil you may have only soft seized it and it still will run . A bad seize and its rebuild time . It is so easy to rebuild a 2T and a great excuse to get a BBK . I have a Jonway and it got it to where it leaked out my oil too . I unhooked the tank and premix since it is a safer option . My Magnum has the handsome boy body ( like Peace VIPs and others ) so after removing the exhaust I only had to remove the fan shroud to get to the engine instead of removing the body or dropping the engine from the frame . Is is easy to be lean on a 2T so I suggest upjetting a size or two main jet to be safe . Any intake or exhaust leak will make it lean and prone to damage . Here is oil pump adjustment how to oil pump |
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Post by skuttadawg on Mar 14, 2014 21:22:50 GMT -5
If you like the Zuma a Honda Ruckus is similar . Metro is small and slow which is ok for around the block but not highway use .
A 50 has to work its tail off to keep up with traffic where a 150 would last longer since it is not being maxed out .
My scooter dealer has an old Zuma the 2T model and it is a wheelie machine with a BBK and other goodies
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B-CASE?
by: skuttadawg - Mar 14, 2014 21:12:03 GMT -5
Post by skuttadawg on Mar 14, 2014 21:12:03 GMT -5
How does the 232 perform against a stock 250 ?
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Post by skuttadawg on Mar 14, 2014 21:01:42 GMT -5
Metropolitan is a small scooter for short commutes but lacking power and aftermarket HP parts unlike the China scoots .
Aprilia is a super brand and worth the extra . A 125cc should easy keep up with highway traffic but I would not use on an interstate .
Kymco is also a top brand as well . I would sit on them both to see how they fit .
Ask about warranty on the Aprilia as new Kymcos have a 2 year warranty and unsure on Aprilia . Then it is budget and styling to decide which one to get .
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Post by skuttadawg on Mar 14, 2014 20:56:19 GMT -5
I carry cables with me and I try to hook up to a pole light or other fixture . When I go to stores I wrap my cables around the shopping cart return bin . Some places did not mind if I parked on the sidewalk as long as it was not in the way of the entrance or outside display . You may get a parking ticket in some cases so be aware of that . When I ride with a buddy I like to cable us together if there is nothing to use . I also use disc locks and I have a Master Lock Ubolt lock that is forged to go through a wheel . You can get the Master Lock ubolts in any bicycle section of a retail store like Wally World ( Walmart . Cycle Gear I bought a long thick cable for home use that I wrap around a support beam in my garage and run it through the wheels of both of my scoots . Never use those combination locks as they are easy to open with no tools needed . I have Masterlock disc locks I bought from Greg and two more I got at CG which were on sale . My cables with built in key locks use the round keys which are harder to pick than standard key types .
Under a camera is a great idea but not fool proof as I have seen videos where thieves have stolen in broad daylight right under neath a camera .
On my Echarm I bought an additional bicycle lock which is heavy tubing in a square shape . It fits perfect around the kickstand so it can not be raised up . My Echarm has a kilswitch in the kickstand which not only disables the ignition , but the starter and electric fuel pump . I saw where some Echarms have a switch under the seat that disables ignition and locks the rear wheel . Some reason mine has the hook up but missing the switch . I think the switch is great idea .
Always lock the steering too but it hard twist can break the peg so it is just a deterrent and not fail safe .
Always lock it up unless your in a gas station and have your scoot in full view . There have been so many scoots stolen here as to why I went a lil overboard . Thieves want quick and easy instead of having to be MacGyver to get my locks off . The Master Lock ubolt is so hard I broke bolt cutters on a test one . With a hacksaw it takes forever to cut it . I used to ride mountain bikes and I bought one to use and the other to test . There is two models of this type one is 15 and the other 25 . It is well worth the 10 bucks as it is better made and not clunky like the cheaper one . I keep my disc locks unlocked under the seat so I can put em on without needing the key . The ubolts and cables require a key to lock and unlock .
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MPH