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Post by skuttadawg on Sept 9, 2013 22:48:56 GMT -5
How many poles does your stator have ? With a higher wattage bulb it may not be able to charge up the battery as good . Many opt to to replace the stator with one that has more poles which also would need the voltage regulator matched up too .
Wow only 18w must be dim . I have a single and another scooter with dual headlights and both use 35w bulbs and I can see pretty good . I had another scooter is was just above a candle and no good for night rides in the country .
My scooter with dual headlights is powered by the stator like most are , so the dim at idle and brighten up as the RPMs increase . The tail light bulb went out and it uses an 1157 bulb like many cars also use , but I used an 1157 LED instead . It screws in just like a bulb with no mods needed . The tail light bulb is around 5watts and the brake can be 25 watts . It did seem to make it just a hair brighter . You could go a step further by replacing the running and dash bulbs with LEDs .
If changing out the stator is beyond your abilities then you may opt for a battery that has more AMPs ore install a secondary battery under the seat to power additional driving lights but will need a trickle charger to plug it up to at night to charge up the battery .
I would give the 25w bulb in the link above a try and see if it helps as it may some .
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Tires
by: skuttadawg - Sept 9, 2013 22:17:04 GMT -5
Post by skuttadawg on Sept 9, 2013 22:17:04 GMT -5
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Post by skuttadawg on Sept 9, 2013 22:13:54 GMT -5
Yes it will coast at times and if you give it just a lil throttle it will rengage and help on braking which saves wear on brake pads and shoes . If you push off with your feet only at the top of a hill it will coast and when you give it throttle may be a slight hesitate then accelerate . This is what many call " tranny drag " not like on Jerry Springer LOL . Most of the time you can slow down by just letting off of the throttle instead of using the brakes .
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Post by skuttadawg on Sept 9, 2013 22:08:38 GMT -5
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Post by skuttadawg on Sept 7, 2013 1:58:26 GMT -5
My 4T ran like crap with a huge power loss when a hose on the airbox came off . The vapor cannister may not makea diff if unhooked but the other vacuum hoses like from the intake to the pecock are needed . Have you checked the valves ? Often if too too tight it may prevent starting or not start at all and is common . Since you says yours starts up but does not run good until it is warm your may be loose or have too large of a gap . Now mine got loose . It started and ran perfect but would want to stall just before coming to a stop . Have you adjusted the air/fuel screw ? Most run it all the way in and turn it 2.5 turns and adjust according on a warm engine . My 2T had idle bugs at times and I had to adjust the idle speed when the temps changed . It got worse with a BBK but I got a larger idle jet and now it purrs at idle . When its winter it will idle higher than normal at first and idle down after after a minute or two of idling since I warm up my scooters prior to riding more so in winter time . I ALWAYS use the CS ( center stand ) instead of kick stand since I would give it just enough throttle to turn the wheel ( not race the engine high ) in order to warm up the belt when its very cold . My Echarm has a killswitch in the KS which prevents it from starting with it down to prevent it wanting to roll and fall over if on the KS and idling high . My 2T would sometimes spin the wheel at idle in winter since RPMs were higher but stiffer 1.5k clutch springs stopped that since they engage at 1,500 RPMs higher than the stock springs . One of the advantages of having of having EFI on my Echarm is instant starts and idle is always the same regardless of weather or engine temp , plus better MPG and performance compared to a carb . If you want to check out EFI since its a great upgrade visit www.ecotrons.com |
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Post by skuttadawg on Sept 7, 2013 1:43:53 GMT -5
When new the rings and piston are in they tight just like new shoes are compared to old sneakers already broken in . Avoid long idles or running at the same RPM ( go by your ear if no tach ) and being easy going downhill . To break it in right ride at the middle of it top speed while going up and down with the throttle in order to grind the rings smooth ( break in ) . The very first oil change at 200 or so miles and the next durations should have some ring dust in the oil . After it is broken in the piston moves up and down easier since it has less friction than when brand new and will run faster .
I am not a fan of a hard break in on a 4T from the start since I do midrange break in at first then push it harder later . I did do a hard break in on my 2T after riding it around midrange at first . You can always get on it hard later and if you push it too hard at first and scar the cylinder or damage the valves it will not run as good and may burn oil .
Use any automotive 10w40 dino oil for the first 3 oil changes and afterwards you may opt for a full synthetic oil or use Castrol Synblend like I do . Synthetic oil is too slick and may prevent the rings from grinding smooth compared to dino ( regular oil made from dinosaurs etc ) .
My Echarm has almost 18k of miles , does not burn or leak oil at all . I can eat off of the engine . Now sometimes if I redline it a sip of oil can blow out the PVC tube that most do not come with .
Take your time breaking it in and dog it later once broken in around 1,000 miles or so .
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vibration
by: skuttadawg - Sept 7, 2013 1:03:16 GMT -5
Post by skuttadawg on Sept 7, 2013 1:03:16 GMT -5
My stock belt was very smooth but a Kevlar Bando it has a vibration on both of my scooters since they both have a Kevlar Bando and both have a surge vibration that they did not with stock belts
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Post by skuttadawg on Sept 7, 2013 0:05:10 GMT -5
I have seen many around my area ride with a moped tag instead of a MC tag on a 150 or more scooter . Today a buddy got pulled over for going 52 MPH with a moped tag that has a 30 MPH limitation under the moped law . He was charged with DUS , no MC permit or license , no insurance , no MC tag , and no registration resulting in $2,700.00 in citations . His 4T 50 blew up and he has a deposit on a 2T Zuma after seeing how much faster my 2T is compared to the 4ts . One of his coworkers needed money bad and sold him a used 150 for 200 so he jumped on that deal . The Zuma is $1,500 . I have read where many fret applying for a MC learners permit since some states require a MC safety course first . I heard some say it costs 400 and is a good idea even if not required for noobs . I got my MC license when I was only 16 on a Suzuki GS550 and passed the driving test with ease . IN SC it is way easier than the automotive driving test . The permit is good for 6 months and can be renewed but to me why not go ahead and take the test . In SC a 150 costs  or so a year for basic liability insurance , tag is 15 , register is 10 and property tax can vary but mine is 24 dollars . In SC , mostly the city cops in small towns and some SCHP have been busting people with moped tags going over 30 MPH . I got some DUI BS yelled at me on my 50 when I first had a moped tag . Since I hated that and it did 45+ bone stock ( its a 2T ) I added it to my insurance and got a MC tag . I have yet to get any " DUI or liquor cycle hate " from cagers or bothered by the cops . I have had people smile and even get mad and speed up when I would pass by them . Another advantage of having a 50 registered is it would be easier to track via paper trail if stolen . Many 50s and some 150s never get registered and thieves know this as cops here will only make a report and do nothing afterwards . It is not worth the risk to ride illegal . If your are restricted to moped status you can tune it up some so that you do not get ran over as a restricted scooter is slow . A 2T scooter with a CVT instead of single speed chain drive can easily go faster than a 4T and with just a few lil mods like upjet it can be a fun experience . I have read a news report where a ( censored ) cop had a guys impounded scooter get checked out by a scooter shop to see if it was truly a 49cc . |
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Post by skuttadawg on Sept 6, 2013 23:45:48 GMT -5
Should be able to feel the coolant flowing while at idle by gently giving the hose a squeeze . With the cap off the pressure is much less than when on so it may not be flowing as much . Have just warm , not hot , make sure the radiator and reservoir are full . Like mentioned above squeezing the hose while at idle with the cap off can " burp " or purge out any air that may be in the system since it limits the coolant flow . Also make sure the oil level is full and is golden instead of black which should be changed .
My Echarm always runs cool except if I putt around campus with a 20 MPH speed limit since it does not get air flow through the radiator as well as engine bay compared to that of cruising speeds . I recently changed out my coolant since it had 17k miles on it . My dealer said they changed it out of the crate with Prestone 50/50 . I only gave it sip since purchase . My fan has been on way more and at a longer duration recently since it still gets warm at midday here . During the winter the fan never comes on unless it idles for a very long time over 20 minutes . I have done that just to say " Look my scooter has a heater " LOL .
Have you done a plug chop ? Since it is lean it will run hotter than one with a larger main jet that will be richer .
Are you running the 7 or 8 spark plug ?
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Post by skuttadawg on Sept 6, 2013 22:38:50 GMT -5
Warm it up and see how it idles as you may need to raise up the idle speed . Did you remove the bowl and both jets when you cleaned it ? Any intake , vacuum or exhaust leaks ? Cleaned the air filter ? The pecock may be worn and not delivering enough fuel at idle since vacuum is much less than when riding
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Post by skuttadawg on Sept 6, 2013 22:35:01 GMT -5
Is this a 4T or 2T engine ? What size carb ? What size idle jet ?
On my 2T which had a 40IJ it always idled weird at times and had to adjust the idle speed as the weather changed . I installed a 70cc BBK and it got worse . It started fine but would not idle for a long time without slowing down and wanting to stall . I installed a 45 IJ and it now purrs like a kitten .
Did you run the air/screw all the way in and run it out 2.5 turns ? Try this with the engine warm instead of cold . When it stalls from running it in means not enough fuel in which a size up IJ or it may need to be cleaned
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Post by skuttadawg on Sept 4, 2013 1:30:34 GMT -5
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Post by skuttadawg on Sept 4, 2013 1:20:33 GMT -5
The 70 exhaust is designed for a 70 which would have a larger flow than the 50 so you have less back pressure which hurts the bottom end performance . The 50 exhaust port is not fully opened up where a 70 it is bored out round instead of a D shape .
Mine came with 6g rollers and I never had any problem going up hill . I tried 4g and it was too light so I mixed them to equal 5g . A larger main jet can help it run better . A BBK will have more power . Now when I put a BBK on mine with a PM Racing pipe bottom end was less since it was open exhaust with no restrictions but top end I was zooming !
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Post by skuttadawg on Sept 3, 2013 0:23:57 GMT -5
I have had the sparkplug wire get loose and even pop off so I would check that first . Was it running hot ? Were you getting on it hard ? Had plenty of oil in the tank ? A vacuum leak in the airbox , intake or hose that came off or cracked will make it run bad .
I have read a few times on the Rocketa 2T that the gas cap has caused bugs . A dirty plug that is fouled out from oil deposits can make it run bad .
I got some bad gas in my 2T and it went from running perfect to no start . I drained the tank and the carb bowl and filled up with premium from a trusted source and it was new again .
Mine came with a 68 main jet and I went with a 75MJ and it ran great just a hair rich as you want a 2T to be since if lean they can seize up
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Post by skuttadawg on Sept 3, 2013 0:17:23 GMT -5
I have over 4k miles on the stock Gates belt and it looks like new with no frays or missing teeth . The stiffer clutch and torque springs can shorten the belt life , as well as fast speeds and having a passenger .
My Echarm I changed the belt at 12k miles and it was still good . It is a great idea to replace the belt BEFORE it wears out or worse shreds which can damage the CVT and cause a wreck with the rear wheel locked up . Only use a Gates or Bando brand belt from a trusted dealer like any of the sponsors here and avoid Ebay since there is many crappy fake belts renamed Gates and Bando
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or so a year for basic liability insurance , tag is 15 , register is 10 and property tax can vary but mine is 24 dollars .