sealing new piston rings  By  Deleted (Read 880 times)

When new the rings and piston are in they tight just like new shoes are compared to old sneakers already broken in . Avoid long idles or running at the same RPM ( go by your ear if no tach ) and being easy going downhill . To break it in right ride at the middle of it top speed while going up and down with the throttle in order to grind the rings smooth ( break in ) . The very first oil change at 200 or so miles and the next durations should have some ring dust in the oil . After it is broken in the piston moves up and down easier since it has less friction than when brand new and will run faster .

I am not a fan of a hard break in on a 4T from the start since I do midrange break in at first then push it harder later . I did do a hard break in on my 2T after riding it around midrange at first . You can always get on it hard later and if you push it too hard at first and scar the cylinder or damage the valves it will not run as good and may burn oil .

Use any automotive 10w40 dino oil for the first 3 oil changes and afterwards you may opt for a full synthetic oil or use Castrol Synblend like I do . Synthetic oil is too slick and may prevent the rings from grinding smooth compared to dino ( regular oil made from dinosaurs etc ) .

My Echarm has almost 18k of miles , does not burn or leak oil at all . I can eat off of the engine . Now sometimes if I redline it a sip of oil can blow out the PVC tube that most do not come with .

Take your time breaking it in and dog it later once broken in around 1,000 miles or so .

me too 1000 miles is excessive. In the airsal kit I put in the instructions state that after 35 minutes, it's all set to go WOT. I did,and It runs perfect with around 300 miles since breakin now.you want to break it in the way you run it.I would say 1/2-3/4 throttle for maybe 100 miles,go to top-end for a few, change oil, Ride it normally changing the oil a couple of times within 300 miles or so, and it will be fine.

howdy, just opinion here. when breaking in , it is my understanding that the internal pressure caused by ignition pushes the rings out agains the cylinder wall which helps shape that area of the cylinder(wears from metal contact). so what the engine needs is very brief full throttle to perforn that which also produces heat. then short period off throttle to cool and lubricate. no long periods of steady speed. i use that method without any deleterious effects. as stated change the oil within a few hundred miles.

lotsa miles and smiles to ya
ken

howdy rockynv

again, my understanding is that without the brief high throttle eppisodes, there won't be enough ring to cylinder contact to avoid glazing the cylinder wall in that area and might cause there to never be good contact between the wall and the rings. that would result in never seating in and would also cause oil consumption and in extremes would allow blow by which increases the internal oil gallerie pressures resulting in excessive oil out the vent.

so again i would still reccomend high throttle briefly, then reduced throttle to allow cooling and lubrication. none of your statements were wrong, it is simply a matter of how much throttle and at what rpm. i reccomend these full throttle BRIEF eppisodes are carried out in different rpm ranges because there are slight changes in how the piston sets in the cylinder as the rpm changes.

lotsa miles and smiles to y'all
ken

DX
howdy, i hope we all see this as a discussion and not like"if ya don't see it my way, i gotta cut off your head"

i i actually think only extremes of full throttle all the time or babying it for a thousand miles , may cause harm. the engines are designed to be somewhat forgiving.

lotsa miles and smiles to ya
ken

same here if it blows I'll put something bigger and better in it