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Post by skuttadawg on Oct 6, 2013 22:54:21 GMT -5
It is so much more fun to ride then wrench . Enjoy it and ride safe
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Post by skuttadawg on Oct 6, 2013 22:47:54 GMT -5
Watch and see why I love a 2T scooter
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Post by skuttadawg on Oct 6, 2013 22:23:47 GMT -5
I agree with you Aleeyoop as I have read where many noobs had the clutch slip or wear out prematurely since they did not give it enough throttle for it to fully engage and the shoes skim across the bell which causes glazing . The same thing for brakes . I only hold down for a second or two and again just before stopping instead of for a long duration like lil old ladies do . I work on cars since I was a teen doing brakes and other easy service work and I notice women wear out brakes much faster than men do .
NCY is a decent brand , better than OEM and not as pricey as the Italian goodies . If you do sand I would only go with the grain on the shoes and the bell . Are you using a NCY bell ?
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Post by skuttadawg on Oct 6, 2013 21:59:13 GMT -5
The engine boost bottles are only for a 2T that lacks reed valves and no good for a 4T .
Be weary of those energy drinks as they can spike your sugar and make your heart race .
It is safer to take Korean ginseng and vitamin B12 that you place under your tongue as you can get energy but not be geeky like with caffeine
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Post by skuttadawg on Oct 6, 2013 21:56:41 GMT -5
To get even more out of it you want to get a full circle crank . The stock cranks are often rated to 10k RPMs where HP can go up to 16k RPMs . The FC has more material around the circle so compression will be higher . Hoca came out with stuffer cranks that have plastic inserts but I would rather have all metal . Here is a video of a Stage 6 70cc vs a Porsche on a racetrack
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Post by skuttadawg on Oct 6, 2013 21:53:48 GMT -5
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Post by skuttadawg on Oct 6, 2013 20:51:00 GMT -5
To get a 2T a screamer you really need a racing pipe with expansion chamber and cone to get to top end power . Some stock pipes are only tubing to a muffler and they will not perform anywhere close to a tuned pipe .
My Jonway Magnum with a MODcycle 47mm BBK , PM Racing pipe and a Uni I can do 50 up a large steep hill with a running start . I have outran 2 150s so far and smoked several 50 to 80cc 4ts . My Echarm which is a 150 but is LC and has Ducatti EFI will outrun just like I have evcery 150 that I raced . My 2T is weird as its not geared for fast take off but when I go over 50 MPH its like it goes into an underdrive and redliming . I even put in 8g sliders where most use 4 or 5 to try to lower the RPMs at highway riding but I can still go past the redline uphill until I get taller gears .
I could tell a huge diff with only 7mm bigger piston as I could pop a wheelie at 50 MPH when the powrband kicked in at 8,500 and it screams up to 10,500 when I ran 5g rollers
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Post by skuttadawg on Oct 6, 2013 20:39:53 GMT -5
Dr Pulley is high quality plus it comes with more than one set of springs plus weights so you can fine tune it . If its not in the budget I would get a Stage 6 clutch . The 2k springs may be wearing it out faster since of the higher RPMs and you may opt for 1.5k springs .
Aleeyooop do you have to unglaze the shoes or just do it as a preventive maintenance ? My Echarm I have 18,300 miles on the stock clutch and I only blew out some dust and greased the shaft behind it when I bought a belt at 12k miles
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Post by skuttadawg on Oct 6, 2013 10:24:38 GMT -5
I have ridden a Piaggio with a 4 speed twist grip and manual clutch . It was a lil weird at first as I am so used to a toe shifter and had not used a twist grip except on bicycles . A scooter dealer in my town has a 50 with a 4 speed toe shift semi auto clutch which I do want to take it for a spin just to see how it does and the engine is not covered up so putting on a BBK is way easier that others . I will get my card out my phone and post a pic in a bit .
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Post by skuttadawg on Oct 6, 2013 10:21:03 GMT -5
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Post by skuttadawg on Oct 5, 2013 1:41:37 GMT -5
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Post by skuttadawg on Oct 5, 2013 1:37:17 GMT -5
I would get a new carb that you can adjust the air/fuel and needle position since they are not that much .. Some even have the bowl riveted on instead of screws to prevent tampering with it . Here is some carbs compare yours with the photos as there is more than one type www.partsforscooters.com/Street-Scooter-Carburetors-and-Parts . A jet kit is a great investment as you have several to test and keep the extra ones for later tuning should you replace the exhaust or airfilter later and its cheaper than paying per jet price . Since your was jetting ( and already lean from the factory ) was for a 50 and now you have a BBK it is too lean , will run hot and has been well known to burn a hole in the piston . A larger main jet delivers more fuel so it performs better and runs a bit cooler . Remove the sparkplug and compare it with this chart www.4secondsflat.com/plug_chart.html If you get a new carb , jets or a jet kit I buy a couple of extra sparkplugs to do a plug chop . Once you install a larger main jet and it is running good ( too large it will sputter ) install a new sparkplug , run it down the street hitting top RPM and hit the killswitch . Remove the plug and compare to the same plug chart . Here is some more tuning tips www.provoscooter.com/tuning |
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Post by skuttadawg on Oct 5, 2013 1:25:30 GMT -5
Roller weights in the variator can rattle and sound like a bad bearing when they get worn down . A buddy of mine had two of em fall out of the variator that made a lot of noise and performance was hurt . Does it make the noise at idle or while riding ? I have gotten bad gas twice in my 2T when I was too far away from my trusted sources . It ran great going home but the next day it would not start at . I drained the tank and carb bowl , filled with good gas and tada it was new again . Have the valves ever been adjusted yet ? All 4Ts will need this done with some needing it out of the crate . Valves out of spec could make a ticking sound
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Post by skuttadawg on Oct 5, 2013 0:49:08 GMT -5
video is up . I see we post the url rather than use the You Tube button . What mm is the carb and size of idle jet ? I had a 50mm BBK and used a  main jet and stock IJ since it started and idled fine . Now on my 2T with a BBK it would start and idle but die unless I gave it throttle and had to adjust the idle speed often . I installed a larger idle jet and now it purrs . Check your float valve in the carb as it may not be keeping the bowl full . Do you give it any throttle to start ? On my 2T I had always give it just a sip 1/32 of a turn to start it but none with the larger IJ . Is it cold where you are ? You should always let any small engine warm up some prior to riding more so in the winter . With a new engine I would put on a fresh belt to be safe and keep the old as a spare . Stock head 40mm or a larger head ? If stock did it have an extra base gasket ? |
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Post by skuttadawg on Oct 4, 2013 1:46:00 GMT -5
NGKC7HSA
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main jet and stock IJ since it started and idled fine . Now on my 2T with a BBK it would start and idle but die unless I gave it throttle and had to adjust the idle speed often . I installed a larger idle jet and now it purrs . Check your float valve in the carb as it may not be keeping the bowl full . Do you give it any throttle to start ? On my 2T I had always give it just a sip 1/32 of a turn to start it but none with the larger IJ . Is it cold where you are ? You should always let any small engine warm up some prior to riding more so in the winter . With a new engine I would put on a fresh belt to be safe and keep the old as a spare . Stock head 40mm or a larger head ? If stock did it have an extra base gasket ?