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Post by gearhead on Oct 4, 2013 21:50:44 GMT -5
So let me start off and say that I don't know a lot about scooters but I am definitely learning and fast. It all started 3 months ago when I bought my first 50cc scooter. It already had a big bore kit on it (100cc) and would climb to 50mph at full rev even with my 220lb frame on it. All was happy until it seemed to overheat one day (I normally take it on long 30+ mile drives about 1 time a week and avg about 12 mile round trip the other days -- which I never keep it max rev for very long on.) I took it to a shop and they said I had NO compression and needed to replace my cylinder, head, piston. Well as they were trying to overcharge me I decided to have them do the service but I provided the hardware and bought an 80cc big bore kit. This worked very well and then I noticed a sputtering occasionally at high rpms and an occasional loss of power. I cleaned the carburetor myself and it stopped losing power but the sputtering continued. After about 2 days it stopped sputtering but then I lost power again. I change the oil every 500+ miles and I recently changed the gear oil (2 times now because I wasn't sure about it the first time ) because it was recommended at 3500 miles and my scoot has just over 4k on it. So trouble shooting all of these, today a new problem occurred and I am at wits end. There is a whirring sound as if a belt is loose (I plan on taking the transmission case off on Sunday to check and see if I can identify problems with the clutch, variator, belt. Actions that I plan on taking because I have no idea what could be wrong -- 1. Replace CDI, Coil, and Spark Plug (NGK brand) -- I heard that the CDI could cause a loss of power and bad gas mileage which I have been noticing this week 2. Take off the cover for the clutch, variator, belt and inspect while running (if I can get it to idle and not die) 3. Check the valve timing (thanks youtube videos) because that may be causing part of the issue Things I know --- I don't have a lack of compression. After about 5 miles I can get back up to normal speeds but the first 10 minutes I can barely get up to 25 mph on max rev My oil has been changed recently as well as gear oil The Cylinder/Head/Piston are relatively new (less than 1k miles and yes I did the break in period for the first 400 miles) There is a whirring noise that started today (if I can't resolve it based on your suggestions I will take a video on my phone and upload it as that might help narrow it down.. training all day tomorrow so I can't then). I am at wits end and need my scooter to get to work on monday so I don't want to put it in a shop and would rather fix it myself Thanks in advance
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Post by gearhead on Oct 4, 2013 22:37:04 GMT -5
Quick video of sound (it will be ready in 1 hour around 11:30pm from converting)
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Post by alleyoop on Oct 4, 2013 22:46:47 GMT -5
Question, did you up jet the carb with a bigger main jet? When putting in a BBK you need to up jet the carb otherwise it will run really lean and seize the motor up because it gets really hot. Alleyoop
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Post by gearhead on Oct 4, 2013 23:31:32 GMT -5
I did not upjet the carb, I don't think that is the only problem but I could definitely fix that one easily. I will order the new jets (both of them need replacing i assume) tonight. They are only like $5 each
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Post by alleyoop on Oct 4, 2013 23:41:16 GMT -5
No Video yet BRO. Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Oct 4, 2013 23:44:34 GMT -5
Well with an 80cc bbk you need at least an # or # main jet the Pilot jet probably is fine but you need more fuel after about 20mph. Alleyoop
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Post by gearhead on Oct 4, 2013 23:55:39 GMT -5
Vimeo sucks apparently -- I uploaded it to youtube and it is already up.
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Post by alleyoop on Oct 4, 2013 23:56:48 GMT -5
let us know when the Video is working, why not put it up on youtube. Alleyoop
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Post by skuttadawg on Oct 5, 2013 0:49:08 GMT -5
video is up . I see we post the url rather than use the You Tube button . What mm is the carb and size of idle jet ? I had a 50mm BBK and used a main jet and stock IJ since it started and idled fine . Now on my 2T with a BBK it would start and idle but die unless I gave it throttle and had to adjust the idle speed often . I installed a larger idle jet and now it purrs . Check your float valve in the carb as it may not be keeping the bowl full . Do you give it any throttle to start ? On my 2T I had always give it just a sip 1/32 of a turn to start it but none with the larger IJ . Is it cold where you are ? You should always let any small engine warm up some prior to riding more so in the winter . With a new engine I would put on a fresh belt to be safe and keep the old as a spare . Stock head 40mm or a larger head ? If stock did it have an extra base gasket ?
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Post by gearhead on Oct 5, 2013 1:00:59 GMT -5
lots of questions let me try and get the answers in order.
1. MM is 1-8mm carb (can't type 18 cause it gives the emoticon) I thought about upgrading to a 20 but am not sure yet) stock jets. 2. Idle I have to adjust based on the day , it is currently about 1 full turn but it doesn't matter how far I turn it , it won't maintain idle. 3. Yes I give it gas when I crank as it will die immediately after cranking (see the not maintaining idle) 4. I can check the float on Sunday when I do all of the other stuff (It should be very loose correct?) 5. I am debating replacing the variator with a performance version utilizing 8g rollers -- and if I do that I need to replace the clutch and springs as well as the belt (might as well do it all at 1 time) 6. the head is a 50mm (64mm valves) 80cc BBK -- the kit had the cylinder, head, piston and all gaskets necessary 7. It is hot as balls where I am but just now cooling down (Texas)
I have a feeling it is the carb/cdi for the idle issue, but I have no idea what the sound is... Sunday I planned on cleaning the carb, replacing the cdi with a performance CDI, Replacing the coil with a performance coil, replacing my NGK spark if it needs it, adjusting the valve timing, and opening up the transmission to inspect the components and replace if necessary. This is all based on what we talked about. Can you think of anything else I should try?
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Post by alleyoop on Oct 5, 2013 1:02:09 GMT -5
If it will not hold IDLE, First thing you want to do is ADJUST the VALVES before adjusting anything else. Adjust them BOTH valves to .003 inchs and see if that helps the situation, it should act better. Then we can work on the Fuel Mixture by adjusting the FUEL RATIO MIXTURE on the carb. We need to get it to Start and Idle all day long without giveing it throttle to keep it going. Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Oct 5, 2013 1:04:18 GMT -5
Don't do to much at once, Lets get it running good first then you can play around with the performance additions. Alleyoop
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Post by gearhead on Oct 5, 2013 1:05:47 GMT -5
That was my thought, the only way I am replacing transmission stuff now is if it is obviously an issue there (I.E. the belt is worn, the clutch is causing the sound etc...)
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Post by alleyoop on Oct 5, 2013 1:06:45 GMT -5
The sound is not bad at all it could just be the rollers making noise. Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Oct 5, 2013 1:10:41 GMT -5
Also is the FUEL RATIO MIXTURE screw available on your carb OR IS IT PLUGGED? Alleyoop
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