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Looks like the hose it part of the vapor emissions that connect to a charcoal canister . Does it run good ?

The link said it has 12 wheels not 13 . If you can get a 150 for the same price as a 50 JUMP on it ! I like that body style of the scooter . If you are going to fix your old scooter the Michelin tires will be a plus compared to the tires that come on most scooters . I hope you have or will get a motorcycle license so you can enjoy it instead of worrying about getting busted . A buddy of mine was riding a 150 with a moped tag , not license , insurance and unregistered he got 1,700 in fines . Progressive is should be around a year ( well it is in SC ) for just liability insurance but I added roadside assistance for 10 bucks , extended uninsurance coverage and 5k in medpay in case I wreck if I had a tire blow out since I do not have health insurance . In SC if you do not have insurance they almost spit on patients in the ER .

A 150 will have the extra power so you can keep up with traffic and not struggle going up a hill . Having the extra power it should last longer as it does not have to work as hard as a 50 does

Unsure if diff viscosities would mix or separate . Diff oil companies use diff detergents and other additives so mixing can be bad and not suggested . You should be fine with any automotive oil as scooters do not hit high RPMs like a crotch rocket does , which for those I would use a motorcycle oil like Motul or Bel Ray since of the higher RPMs .

I was amazed after I first read about mixing boric acid with engine oil as there is lots of info all over the internet on it even at www.epa.gov ( it was unsure if still is there ) . I read where some mixed BA with a full synthetic oil on a wet starter clucth like I have it and it would slip rather than engage . Even my scooter dealer had to drain it after doing this since it would not start . I used Castrol Synblend instead of a full synthetic but I let it get hot before and after doing this and had no problems . It seem to idle quieter .

When I was young I had a Geo Metro that called for 10 w30 . Since it had lots of miles I used 10w40 no problems . I tried 20w50 and it hurt my MPG as was too thick for the oil pump and the oil passages . Drained it and put in 10w40 and it was good again .

Older cars used 10w40 , then many went to 10w30 as clearances got smaller . Many new cars use 5w20 . BMW and Mercedes us 20w50 since the oil passages are bigger than most other cars . I serviced a Porsche 911 Turbo that also used 20w50 and was oil cooled with a huge oil cooler ( they later went LC with antifreeze ) and it is the only car I know that you check the oil level with the engine at idle .

www.cyclegear.com has a great selection oils but expect to pay extra for Motul

Bando is made in Japan and is what Honda uses . So far the surging vibration went away on my Echarm . The Bando was 30 less than the CFMoto belt which my dealer said was made by Bando but the stock belt was smooth even with 12k of hard miles on it it hardly had any wear . My 2T came with a Gates and I replaced it to be safe at 4k miles but it still looks almost new and is a spare . It too has the surging vibration that the Gates did not at all .

I did also install a Hoca bb torque spring base that has BBs which allow the torque spring to be able to move instead of bind and it sounds like a cars automatic transmission with several gears instead the before " gear changes " . I tried to compress a 1.5k torque spring by hand but I could not get it to close together but the stock spring I was able to put it together . I never had any uphill problems but I wanted to put in the torque ( also called contra ) spring since I also put on 1.5k Hoca clutch springs and Dr Pulley sliders .

I think both of my Bandos are the Kevlar type which is stiffer . I have read where Kevlar can eat up a variator . I have over 19k miles on my Echarm with stock CVT other than DR Pulley sliders at 5,5k miles . I have lost top end from 75 to 65 since I am rev limited by the ECU ( no CDI box like a carb has ) and even though I lack a tach I can tell my RPMs are higher at 50 and 60 MPH than they used to be . My dealer told me he replaced a variator on another Echarm at 20k and it was worn out so I will be buying one soon and going with 13g instead of 12g to see if I could hit 80 MPH since the 12g sliders I could hit 75 where the rollers that weighed 12.2g after 5,5k miles I topped at 70 . Clutch still works fine with no slippage and it hardly had any dust from it or the belt at 12k miles . I will pay the extra and get a CFMoto belt as I did not like the surging vibration .

Parts For Scooters www.partsforscooters.com/

2t basics www.way2speed.com/2011/12/2-stroke-engine-troubleshooting-and.html

Did not see a SeaFoam link . I use the orange and white can . Walmart has it cheaper than autopart stores . Any premium synthetic blend or full synthetic oil that says " safe for injector " instead of " premix " only should be fine . Scooters run at higher RPMs and temps than Lawnboys so avoid weedeater oil . I use Maxxima Pro2T in mine .