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Post by rexxk on Jun 29, 2014 14:15:28 GMT -5
i think, that since it had been running like that. and you cleaned it, and now it dont run. they had it set up to run before, like that. with it dirty, clogged. now youve cleaned it. try adjusting your mixture screw. get the idle to a high idle rpm with the idle adjustment rpm screw. ride the bike arou9nd, get it warmed up. ride it for 10 minutes or something. then, adjust the mixture screw for the highest idling rpms. if it starts racing use the idle rpm set screw to lower it back down, to a high idle rpm. once its at highest rpms, lower idle down with idle rpm set screw.
before you do this, check how many turns out your mixture screw is, right now, by turning it in and counting how many turns it takes, and remembering it. so you can set it back later. once your done, and have it set to highest idle, then you sort of adjust it, in and out as how it runs while your on it, snap the throttle back and see how it runs. if its cutting out then yoru a little lean, if it smokes your rich. im not sure which way to adjust them carbs, but youll be able to tell. you use the mixture screw to set this up.
count the numnber of turns your at after youve set for highest rpms idle speed, by turning it all the way in, and counting then, if its under like 1 1/4 or over 3 1/2, you need to change the pilot jet. did you check what jets where in it. you might need to change jet if they changed it.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 29, 2014 12:46:16 GMT -5
you guys suggesting he should use a broke variator to everyone? if someone has a broke variator you think they should use it?
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Post by rexxk on Jun 28, 2014 21:12:12 GMT -5
Yeah your right I do run it hard , my clutch normally didn't engage that high , that's why I think my pads are wore causing the rpms to rise higher to throw the clutch arms out enough to engage . They should be full engaging near 3200 rpms with the 1500 rpm springs . I think the combination of that with my 210 lbs and a 2000 main spring is the cause . I told you, that there are more torquey things out there. that use a cvt. |
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Post by rexxk on Jun 28, 2014 21:09:27 GMT -5
whatever then fine its cool. with me, its your bike. i did mention that the cvt is a system. systems dont, switch, without certain things. under certain conditions things have to be met.
your getting a new variator. thatll fix it. i dont know why them sliders break. its a good idea to check them every once in a while and repalce them. once they break, the variators shot. you where throwing more sliders at them and they where breaking over and over. guess what? you dont need to. do anything. get a new variator and use some quality brand sliders.
if a drive and driven pulley.. are together. their in a system. that's 2 different things. they need gaskets to be in a sytem together. thats why im calling them gaskets. they are, gaskets. the rear driven pulley, if you take it apart. where the 2 different ramps, slide apart, there are gaskets. on teh variator, it slides back and forth with, the ramp plate. and variator. lon the back, its the driven pulley, and torque converter. these things dont operate without, gaskets. the rear has gaskets between these. so does the front.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 28, 2014 14:38:07 GMT -5
i broke a set of sliders on a koso variator the ones that came with it, in under 100 miles. using 2000rpm springs. just cheap koso sliders was all they where. i use polinis, or heck, stock chinese ones, off scooterdomain. cause? where else do you get them?
once the seal breaks, you dont ever use it again. the drive pulleys seal so the thing can variate, is the sliders on teh front. the rear, ahs 2 o-rings inbetween the driven pulley and the torque converter thing that goes over top of it. when those shoot out, the things are pretty much shot. the rear with the o-rings. might be able to be resealed, cuase itll go out and go out quick and take other stuff with it. as long as it dont hang up. but your variator will hang up anD HANG UP.
thats why the slides are breaking. new ones wont stop it. and new springs wont stop that from happenning either. if it did then noone with big bore kits and big motors would ever be able to use this CVT type of transmission. and if your belts too tight itll also break the driven pulley.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 28, 2014 1:39:50 GMT -5
i thought i heard you say that. im just saying how to tune the idle and mixture screw off throttle. itll keep you from blowing it, ive said this like, a million times. itll set it right so its not running the wrong jet. if it revs back ok, then your all fine. might want to fine tune. real test is snap the throttle back and if it doesnt quit on you, and has good pull. its good. you can set it on the stand to do this. if it cuts out snapping back there, theres no load and its really lean.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 28, 2014 1:35:38 GMT -5
once the sliders break once, and you didnt catch it before they ate through, to metal to metal contact. thasts right. replace the variator. thats what you gotta do. ive done it a bunch. just dont use overtight belts and.. chinese scooters. thats my advice.
oh yea, and change them sliders out every time you change the roller weights. or 2-3000 miles or something. im not sure.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 27, 2014 20:30:53 GMT -5
your mixture screws about ready to fall out? the tach is showing half the tachs as befroe? what all did you fix on the tach? and you dont want your mixture screw to fall out.
how can you just get a carb, and it be tuned for your bike? it has the same jets in it? did you swap them out? you can check for right pilot jet by doing that deal with the mixture screw and your idle. when you tune it. its justs sort of a check to see if the pilot jet is the right one, and not too lean for the idle. and pilot also sort of controls down low throttle too. youll be around the right area when the mixture screw gives the highest idle, at a fast idle rpm. if you go, out more it drops or in more than it drops. if its before or after 1 1/4 or after 3 1/2 or something, like that turns, then you need to readjust the idle jet.
the tach is showing half the number of rpms as before, but the scooter sounds the same. except for when it happenned to drop, under 3000 it would die.
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clutch?
by: rexxk - Jun 27, 2014 15:46:10 GMT -5
Post by rexxk on Jun 27, 2014 15:46:10 GMT -5
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Post by rexxk on Jun 27, 2014 13:55:32 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure I said this thread is on-hold until the new parts come in  your scooters already a new one |
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Post by rexxk on Jun 26, 2014 2:16:37 GMT -5
yea your valve stems probably bad now. since it was slow leaking before and now not sealing. or the tires bad. and now, after it sat it lost air. and probably was having weight pout on it? and that broke the seal when al the air went out and their was nothing to bead it with anymore. bead is sealing the side of the rubber on the tire against the side of the rim. so it just fell off, and no air to press it against it. so if the, tire was leaking, or the stem was bad. and its fell off over winter. repalce both. a tire iron will let you pince the tire right over the rim. that and a long screwdriver to hold your old place with. or walk it around to people. you mention china theyll crap you show them china but not mention it when you first see them. they wont crap. so much. theyll look at look at you weird and tell you to leave or say, give it here. and bring your tire and new stem. repalce the tire and stem. bike bandit i found got the best tires and .. i got better tires from there. there pretty cheap.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 25, 2014 15:43:14 GMT -5
and you got to try to adjust it. another carb cdi coil isnt going to fix that.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 25, 2014 15:42:44 GMT -5
Dude, he isn' ripping me off, he is hooking me up. Sending me a bunch of stuff for basically what it would cost for shipping. I did try your directions rex, several times over. For the most part, I couldn't get to the point were I could adjust anything because the bike dies before it's fully warmed up. fully warmed up can tell you 2 things. auto choke/ enrichener, or maybe some other electrical thing. but if it always happens at the same time. from dead cold. same weather temperature and stuff. the choke is probably what it is. electrical ran things die quicker and stuff. auto choke isnt probably messed up. your jettings just off. |
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Post by rexxk on Jun 25, 2014 15:40:24 GMT -5
Hi Billie, Don't pay attention to him, no need to explain anything with him it will just turn into name calling and just get worse. I tried that with him under his previous 2 other IDs that he has signed with. Just notice what I posted and tried to explain why, But you see what he came back with nothing but garbage. what are you talking about? explained what? his bike ahnd how its broke? you said its what you think. ITS NOT YOUR BIKE. the tachs off. listen to that vdieo. thats my guess. when yourssays 3000 it sounds a little like his at 1500 showing. except his is more and yours is less. then yours dies. surprise. Try upping the idle higher. go by sound. try setting the mixture screw at 1 1/2 turns, upping idle starting it. then if it starts to warm up and dies. and doesnt stay going the idles too low wont keep running, you up the rpm screw and it dies. then. if it wont start back. let it cool off again. however long it takes, then try 3 1/2 trurns out on the mix screw. same thing start up. get idle up high. so when it warms up itll drop to a higher rpms. if it dies and wont stay going. if it starts to lower, and doesnt quit, try adjusting that screw. depending where you are. turn it in half a turn. if it goes lower rpms, turn it out back a half then another half a turn out. to 4 turns out. if its raising then and your screw is fuel, then yoru lean on the pilot jet. get a 38. if it turns in and raises the rpms, wait, aroudn 10 seconds, then turn it in 1/4 turn at a time. you wait 10 seconds between each turn. if it starts to die, or GET worse!, .. if it gets worse, turn it back. and go the other direction. out or in. leaner richer. whichever cause i dont know if your carbs, fuel or air screw. more than likely if anything youd be lean from a 35 pilot jet. you know they dont make pilot jets smaller for those carbs than a 30. and they go up to i think a 60 on them. if you can over go on one side or the other, wait until you smell gas, youll know which way is rich and if its fuel or air screw and if your rich or lean. alley can't tell nothing from what ive told him and he cant help you much on your bike. |
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Post by rexxk on Jun 25, 2014 15:27:34 GMT -5
name calling? ok. and on 2 other accounts also. ..
hmmm well lets see here. you got by looking at his bike that the throttle was messed up with no clear directions on how to fix it. i bugged him until it was fixed. and fixed right. then i gave him directions on how to tune the bike. then he followed them while following and watching, he noticed an air leak. hMMMM.
then iasked him to fololow the directions originally gave while alley ooops gives him distractions about watching some electric run tachometer device, that isnt proving to be more reliable than his own bike. so. i gave him instructions to stop watching the tachometer and listen. and i told him how to tune it. he got the directions mixed up. thought wait until it warms up but then it dies.
my directions where when it warms up up the idle rpms with the idle rpm screw, then adjust the mixture. if it won't warm up. .. if its already stopped running. let the auto choke, auto enrichener, cool backdown. wait then start it up. then make your rpms even higher. when it starts. using the idle rpm screw. when it calms down, some. you know its warmed up.
and that tach, if its off. listen to that bike i poste dthe video of. your bike sounds like that at startup. his bike sounds like that, and hes saying thats how one SHOULD SOund. im thinkitg thats warmed up. Your bikes idles too low. its goign to be all screwed up. just get it to the point where you can attempt to adjust the mixture. tunethe bike. using the fuel or air mixture screw. Never said I was an expert on these bikes, knew what everythign was. just use that mixture screw when it warms up. set it to start up at around 1 1/2 to 1 3/4. raise the rpms. so when it calsm down, itll be at a higher rpms.
that tach might be off. his tach says 1500 your says around 3000 when it kills. HUMM mabye its doubled. maybe your under 1500 rpms maybe it should die. raise your rpms. use the idle rpms screw. go by sound.
lots of name calling in there oh wait thats jhust me quoting what alleyoop called me. and every ebay seller says japanese. too dont they?
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