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Post by rexxk on Jun 25, 2014 12:39:03 GMT -5
and i kept on telling him not to read the fuckign tach go by listenning. only use it to get minute tach changes as he adjusted the mixture screw. NOOOO it could be off. haha. so there. tach could be doubling your rpms. so ..
theres you a tach. if your is doulbing yours. and its dying under .. humm humm that certain thing.
well thats all. want to say im wrong some more about what type of carburetor hes runnign alley? cuase that has nothing to do with it. that has nothing to do with what where talking about. it was the actual tuning. which you didnt direct him on,. you only directed him on buying a bunch of stuff.
im going to leave this thread. and half the threads around here. tired of seeing this crap.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 25, 2014 12:18:59 GMT -5
Rexxk, Give it a rest already, I did not like the missing and that has nothing to do with the carb that is electrical Spark plug is not sparking consistently so I have extra Brand New Stuff that I am actually giving him and hope that will do it. After the parts I am sending him the only other things would be the PICK UP COIL and or the STATOR. But I think it is his COIL or CDI that is malfunctioning, but we shall see. Alleyoop no you been calling me a liar twice in a row. then you weasled your way in and sold him a bunch of mechanical parts without testing what he had, after i fixed or helped him to fix his one issue. he wouldnt even listen to me, but you shouldnt be talking. or calling everyone a liar. so im out. you guys fix yoru problems. i fixed them. i didnt see any confirmations and i requested information. i put in the part tHAT YOUR IDLE SCREW ISNT PART OF THE MIXTURE. you guys dont realize that im not wasting my time. his auto choke. his bike ran i dont think the spark plug has a problem. ..edit or coil or cdi or anythign else. it reves up, doesnt cut out or sputter there. its a starting and idleing issue. which are 2 different things. not following directions. im out. yo uguys can waste you time all day. i want tht list of broken carburetors that where actually fixed from replacing the thing. just to see this lemon problem. maybe someoen can fix the lemon problem see, YOU SEEE< THEN maybe everyone can do the steps. since you guys cant folllow directions i dont see that happenning, you can give me links tothese though yourselves. ? |
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Post by rexxk on Jun 25, 2014 12:12:41 GMT -5
culdtn start bike then buy another. automatic chokes can go out. you didnt have the mixture screw set at the stock position. you didnt have idle set at stock. which who knows where that was at. it just needed started and go. but noO NOO just screw all that.
im not here toplay go around scam the guy and then attempt to fix your stuff.
im out. i read thsi whole topic in case anyone has something to say like i dont know whats going on.
screw this.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 25, 2014 11:41:50 GMT -5
can even try what im askign then ill be leaving. try your throwing parts at a machine. their parts and dont need replaced. you guys have lists of thread with replaced carbs?
when my chinese scooter was a lemon, hUMM strange that you guys said, i dont know. Maybe you should answer with Its a lemon. to me. i threw parts but you can do measurements and if you cant try everything with the one thing. then im not wasting my time in this thread. you foudn an airleak. guess who got you to look at that. you fixed the air leak. now your just throwing parts at it. alleys been calling me a liar in his past, besides last, 2 posts. so. about me.
..
I want to see the list, you guys shoudl have so many that youve got a LIST RIGHT?! right. so where is that list you got of these carburetors need replaced, and that where actually proven a carburetor needs replaced.
Dont beleive what people tell you on chinese lemon crap. on anything. These guys will make a living at that sort of crap. Tell you one story not tell you how to fix it, unlike how i have and then offer to sell you things. and weasel themself into it, over and over. using other people for their scapegoat.. better listen to the ol alley hes got your fix for that oh look its another broken bike. over, and over.
lets see those lists of broken bikes you guys got. links. coem on. I wanna see it.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 25, 2014 11:33:53 GMT -5
your bikes dying at idle. not full rpms. dont expect any bike to run well at start up. when you havent got it running right. edit: if you want to replace the carb, you should of gotten, www.ebay.com/itm/371068151685i think with the little search ive done, a keihin ve, which is what i think those carbs, are copied off of. an actual keihin quality |
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Post by rexxk on Jun 25, 2014 11:33:08 GMT -5
what cant you try adjustin gyour mixture screw? suggestions ofr fixes is, replacing carb. I cant see how a carb cna fix another. a carb isnt electrical. its mechanical
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Post by rexxk on Jun 24, 2014 22:18:39 GMT -5
the idle screw doesnt do nothing what your thinking. it is the rpm screw. has nothing to do with jetting idle. it is the rpm setter. it doesnt control anything. get the damn thing started. when it starts, make sure its idlign kinda high. not so fast like the rear wheel spinning crazy. then, after that, set your mixture screw for the highest idle. as your setting it, if it starts to race then adjust it.
we, have no idea what yoru idle screw setting is supposed to be set at. or what its going to be sat at. I dont know. i dont have a 150cc 4-stroke. just get it going. once its going, i beeen teelllling you the steps to adjust the carburetor to get it running. get it started up. use the idle rpm screw, its not anything to do with mixture. its only to set the rpms. at idle. since it can only push up the slide, or your butterfly, a small percentage of the way. like 1/10 of the full throttle. if even that. i dont know soemthign like that. once its started get it running at a fast idle rpm. using the idle rpm screw. jsut call it an rpm screw. then adjust mixture. if it starts racign as your adjusting, like it would run away, lower the rpms with the rpm screw. until its just a fast idle. sorta like when you first start your scooter. kinda how it was running in the last set of 5 videos orsomethign that you posted. earlier today. once youve got the mixture screw set. see if it quits on you then. if it dies on its own, well then . but..
once the auto choke turns itself off, youll need to readjust it. but what you should do is get it warmed up. let it run. if it startts to die, use the idle RPM screw. that screw isnt any part of the mixture, at all whatsoever. its just an RPM screw. if you know how to tune a carb you'll know what its doing. just keep it running if you have to up that rpm screw if it starts dying. once its finally warmed up, then adjust that mixture screw. thats why .. you canhave such a high amount of turns in on your rpm screw, it not work, that it dies once warmed up. the mixture might be good at a certain rpm, but if somethings off, then say the chokes on,when it shuts off, thigns go to crap. so you get it running, its running fine, then the choke turns off and it dies. well, maybe the mixture was fine. the choke turned on, then it turned off. it turns off, the mixture changes, the bike dies.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 24, 2014 15:33:50 GMT -5
your starting it all day. over and over. forget what the tach tells you. listen to it. hear the revolutions per minute. try adjusting your mixture screw. your not doing nothing running it. why are you not riding it? why are you posting here, and, not riding it?
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Post by rexxk on Jun 24, 2014 15:30:57 GMT -5
that popping, backfire? try adjusting the mixture screw for highest idle rpms. do it. nothing left to mess with. try 1 1/2 or 1 13/4 turns out on your mixture screw. start from there. but just dont adjust the mixture screw, and listen at a low idle rpm. you go by feel, when your sitting on it and riding it.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 24, 2014 14:09:01 GMT -5
yea watch out for springs flying out of your coil wire too when you do that.
hm hmmm. what i said, tells you nothing.
no a fuel mix screw is located on 2-strokes. most people see air screws. most people, have 4 -strokes. thtas what ive heard. but you can use either carb on either bike. sometimes parts in teh cvarbs need changed, but we dont need to get into all that.
and i guess,he'll find out if hes got an air or fuel screw when if he finds hes out of tune on the pilot jet, and then swaps it and it does, worse or better.
so there thats how you tell. you can tell by which side the screw is on of the venturi. since i dont have his carb, I dont know. I just heard that. so, your adjusting it. But not richenning or leaning like YOU hear. but your ADJUSTING, which is the important part. who cares what someone says their not there. and THANKS for makign it up alley.
and MY suggestion is his tachs reading 1 PULSE as the 1.0 would I think indicate, on his tachometer settings. A 0.5 I would THINK would be, 1 PULSE per 2 revolutions. dividing 1/2. and thats the onlyu way i can figure it out. I think his idle is low. And i also think maybe he's TUNED WRONG. the mixture screw is tuned wrong. since that bike is usually stock. at like 1 1/2 turns of the mixture screw out. he's running out of tune. and its killing his bike, and the low idle, doesnt help any either. so take the 2500 he seen, 2/1, and you get aroudn 1250 rpms. No wonder its killing. And the mixture screw not tuned well either? it will die. Nothings wrong. Just adjust the mixture screw. quit getting into everything else.
its running now do the things, To start it.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 24, 2014 13:28:23 GMT -5
He has done the Valves correctly so that eliminates that. It could be that when he drained the gas tank crap was on the bottom and is clogging the petcock and or fuel filter. I would RE-CHECK fuel flow BY taking the FUEL HOSE off the carb and seeing if cranking it fuel still STREAMS out and not DRIBBLES out. I say FIRST it is IDLING TO LOW now that his valves are adjusted and needs to idle it up a little and that in the VIDEO is no where near 2000 rpms. Last time he had it running fairly well the wheel started to turn at around 2300 rpms and you saw the tach register over 2300 rpms and the wheel was not turning. That motor is struggling to keep on firing with the low rpms. AND he does not need an bigger pilot jet that is a 24mm carb and they come with a #35 which is more than enough. Alleyoop GEH3333, It is a little LEAN on de-cel either the idle is a little low covering to many of the fuel outlets by the butterfly and or you can richen the fuel mixture up a 1/4-1/2 turn. Alleyoop i was just rechecking. make sure youve done it right. you can sit there and mess around with something all day, and if youve missed one thing. youd be wasting your time. doing that.. i think the tach is setup wrong. it should be a half a Pulse per revolution. PPR in the setup. I went and looked up the instructions online. a 2-stroke would be 1 Pulse per revolution, or one fire per crankshaft revolution. IM at least leaning towards the, he's lean on the idle mixture. pilot or maybe hte screw. i think the screw. turn it in, if it goes below 1 1/4, or 1 1/2 turns less than in, then the pilot jet would be too small then. youll notice as you turn in the mixture screw, if your idles up a little bit, that your idle will start to jump up, if the screw needs to be turned in to richen it, as you richen it. if its lean. or if its rich. if it srich, as you turn the screw in, youd be richenning it, and then you'd notice, the rpms lower. |
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Post by rexxk on Jun 24, 2014 13:24:00 GMT -5
turn your mixture screw. make sure your idle isnt , just so slow its about ready to quit. dont have it racing. really high idle rpm. cause you might get on the next circuit then you wont be able to tune it right. and then after some time, adjust it some more. just up the idle a little.
oh i think yo8ur tach might be set wrong. heres the instructions.
Setup Mode:
Press button to enter setup mode. >>
1: PPR Adjust (number of tach pulses per crankshaft revolution.)
After the first button press, the PPR setting display appears. Press the button to scroll through (default 1.0, 2.0, or 0.5.)
Release button and wait 4 seconds to continue. >>
2: Sensitivity Adjust (the sensitivity of sensor to tach pules.)
Press button to select setting (default Hi, or Lo.)
Release button and wait 4 seconds to continue. >>
3: Speed/filter option (smoothness of display update.)
Select (default Slow 1sec updates, or Fast 1/2sec updates.)
Release button and wait 4 seconds to finish setup mode.
i found them. section 1, i thnk, if you got it on, 1, then i think it needs to be on .5. just try it.
and the mixture screw your talking about. what your talking about. is when you turn the screw out, your leaning the idle mixture up. if you turn it in, like tightening it, your richenning the mixture up. just keep retuning that. after its warmed up do it again, but do it at a fast like type of idle rpm. not racing. then when you get on it and ride it, you dont have to listen for highest idle, just best throttle response. like ive seen in a bunch of videos. maybe turn it, in or out, like 1/8 a turn at a time, and recheck throttle response, while your sittting on it.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 23, 2014 23:03:40 GMT -5
im thinking you got your tach set for 2-stroke. more like, 1100 rpms. and it killing out at that rpm isnt such a big deal. when you start it, set it up to a high idle rpm with the idle adjust screw. just a little. forget WHat the tach says. it's a gauge. and rev it a little. adjust your mixture screw, a little. but since your just going with 2.5 turns out. its not really set mixture screw, jetted, yet. if you rev it back it starts to cut out, turn your screw a little bit, in or out. maybe a half a turn. once its warmed up. then, do the up the idle to high rpms idle. adjust mixture for highest idle speed. use your tach to watch it. then lower idle back down. to regular type of idle. now if the idles got your mixture screw, set at, under 1 1/2 or over 3 turns. out. then rejet the pilot jet. but your all stock right? youve messed with some hoses. make sure your airbox is connected to your carburetor, good. make sure the lid on the airbox is on good. you seem to now, have 1 vacuum line. it runs, from the manifold. the manifold, has 1 barb on it. now. that goes up to the petcock, and it splits, and.. goes to? where? the carburetor? why dont you use all your hose clamps from your evap system instead of them zip ties everywhere? instead. heh. watch your intake for leaks. see if it does anything again. in the same spot. you got a new one right?
when its set and the idles set up. its warmed up, and mixture screw is adjusted, and idles lowered back with the idle rpms screw. set it back to normal rpms. rev back. if its cutting out. adjust your mixture screw. thats an air screw carb? right? so, then, turn the screw in. maybe a half turn. quarter turn or something. retry. revving back. keep doing it. turn the screw all the way in if yo8u have to. if, you end up lower than 1 1/4 or 3 1/4 turns, here, rejet. itll run better. ive found out with mine. it can run pretty leaner, or richer at cold idle. make sure while your mixture screw adjusting, that you while first setting it, up idle rpms with idle rpm screw, a little. for a high idle. if, while adjusint the mixture screw, you find the rpms raise, a whole bunch, lower the idle rpm, back down with the idle rpm screw. dont let it get racing, cuase it can hit on another circuit, then throw off your pilot, idle adjusting. highest idleing rpms, lower your idle back to normal, by listenning. rev back, adjust mixture screw alittle. make sure to keep up with where the highest idle was at. screw turns at. when you adjusted, so yu can set it back there to start over. again later with.
then just try, turning screw in, turning screw out for best revving back. rev back while your sitting on it,.... alright thatsall the things i gotta say. youll find it runs differnt on the stand and while your sitting on it, riding down the road. if its not cutting out on the stand it might start itup down the road as you ride. its easier for it to rev back while on the stand, then when your sitting on it, riding.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 23, 2014 2:17:49 GMT -5
the perfect top dead center is checking a screwdriver with your piston. turn it until its at the topback if you passed do it like that. way. after adjusting mine the bike plus i also switched over to 5 gram sliders from 5.5 and my scooter wanted to wheelie on me when i took off, first.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 22, 2014 3:04:50 GMT -5
if your adjusting yoru idle mixture at 3000 rpms it probably should cut out when your rev the throttle back. but with an airleak too, it would make it cut out and quit too
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