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Post by rexxk on Jun 22, 2014 3:02:48 GMT -5
wait 15 hours and let the engine cool off. a cht gauge may read cooled, but something might be hot. and you cant tune it right. i know stuff can get cooled, through at 14 hours. so wait 14 hours. at least.
and do you guys know how to tune a carburetor? what idle rpm are you setting the mixture at? kinda high? set the idle rpm with the idle screw. then adjust the mixture, at idle, with the fuel/air mixture screw. to get the highest idle. if it raises, too much, lower the idle back down, some with the idle screw. keep your rpms the same, while adjusting the mixture screw, and getting the highest rpms. just make sure the idles, a little high. when you do it.
if its highest idle, well. measure how many turns out the mixture scrwe is out, from all the way in, once its set. by counting the number of turns in, it is. out. then screw it back out and set it back where it was again.
then if its, under 1 1/4 or over 3 1/4 something like that. then adjust the pilot jet. but once thats set, then it should be revving back no problem. make sure not to set idle mix until the bikes warmed up. if it cuts out, go out ride around make sure its set. make sure the screw the mixture screw isnt too far, out or in. maybe need to swap a pilot jet. make surte to go out and ride around some and make sure its warmed up. first. sometimes it takes 10 minutes of some riding to get it to runnign temperature. but go out and getting it to runnign temp before you set your idle mixture. cause the choke will take care of it until it warms up. and also the automatic choke will stay on until its warmed up, according to, a timer..? or the carb heating up from hot air off the motor.. ? right temperture? id ont know. go ride it around for 10 minutes. if its not setting right, if its cutting out, ride it to warm it up. try to adjust it. adjust it then ride more to warm, if its not stopping cutting out, ride until its warmed, like 10 minutes around. set idle mixture again. if it doesnt stop cutting out. maybe make small, adjsutments. if its blurbing or sounding airry, turn the screw, out for more air if thats it,k that means its, rich. if its cutting out, turn the screw in, its too lean to stop more air from gibnign the gas too much air. making it cut out.
... if your too far in or out, change the pilot. if your close, to 1 1/4 then your probably too rich. if your over 3 1/4 your probably too lean. rich, then lean the pilot jet. smaller size. Lean, then richen the pilot jet.
if your lean, then also check for air leaks. more. make sure your plugs if you got any on your lines arent leaking. dont use any wood to seal lines with. check hoses for cracks, leaks. if its new, they snouldnt be leaking, cracking or cracked.
make sure the connections are tight. use hose clamps.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 16, 2014 22:55:24 GMT -5
since neither of the pulleys, drive or driven pulley. are made to do this. if you take from one side your giving to the other. so it doesnt really matter. the front dictates. tahts all i gotta say.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 16, 2014 11:11:10 GMT -5
take out your restrictions, and take out your rollers, then repalce them, with some dr pulley sliders around 5, 5.5 gram.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 15, 2014 1:41:49 GMT -5
adjust when the motors not hot. wait a good 12 or 16 or 24 hours.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 15, 2014 1:36:05 GMT -5
or so.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 15, 2014 1:35:47 GMT -5
well. the service manual should have a procedure.
mines like this. sort of. i done mine when i changed oil brands. i heard to.
change out the lines and bottle all the oil in all of them. pull your line off the oil fill bottle. it should also have a screen in it. take it off and blow it out backwards with compressed air or somethign to get it uncloggged. take you oil bottle, empty it into something. take the oil lines off. they should, be a line that runs from the tank to the pump. the pump runs off the crankshaft, and turns and pumps oil, that goes to it from the tank, to the carb, and mixes in the carb with gas. take off the 2 lines coming from the pump. one goes to the tank and the other one goes to the carb.
drain them. and your tank. then hold the line in a U shape. and fill it, with a small, funnel, or a tip. like, weedeaters that come with a fill bottle that has like a funnel with a cap thing on it, that screws on to a bottle. fill, the hose bent like a U shape, on both sides, to the top. Put the bottom part, the gear side with the clip already on, first, on first. then the other side, to the oil bottle, to the carb, on next. carb first, since its lower. if yours, is lower. i dont have an adly. so. .. make sure its clipped back up with the clip lines, fill your fill bottle then. with your new oil. also run around half a gallon of new oil with around 3/4, ounce of oil in it. thats, like 1.5 ounces to a gallong. which is like an 80:1 mix. so your first half gallon will be oilly. just sort of burn that gallon off. let the air get out of the lines and stuff.
tahts the instructions with my bike. mines a gear pump. and yours should be too. yours should come with a manual. just sort of burn out the first half gallon to get any air bubbles out of the lines out of, it. thats it. should do it.
and use injector oil. that will work with an injector. not weedeater oil. dont go fast on the first half gallon or around 15 miles. letting that oil burn through the line.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 14, 2014 12:12:20 GMT -5
just make sure you keep that oil botttle stays full. there should be a dash light that comes on, if your 2-stroke injector oil, called oil, bottle. gets low. there is a light on the dash, called oil, should be. itll light up if your low on 2stroke oil. suppsed to be. and supposed to work. the 2stroke oil mixes with a gear pump. you should have a split throttle cable but i dont know for sure, that pulls, as you pull the throttle cable. if not, just make sure its wired full open. yuo can findthat stuff in the manual. just dont let that bottle get empty.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 9, 2014 12:23:05 GMT -5
youve got the idea now. you might have to replace the intake manifold. ive seen cheaper on ebay prices. if its leaking. if you kept raising the idle screw to get it started,after you did at the beginning, when it turned on, at about 1000 rpm, then it probably would of started up at about 2200 rpms, if you continued to turn that screw in more. i didnt watch, i was doing something here. .. after about 3 minutes at 2200 rpm, it probably shut off the auto choke. maybe try to restart, see what rpms it goes to.
then do a mixture screw adjustment. make the idle high, around 1700 1800 rpms, around there. then turn mix screw for highest idle rpm. if it jumps up high while your doing it, like around 2000 or something lower the rpoms back down with the idle screw. to around 1700 or 1800. then continue to mess with the mixture screw. then once youve got the highest rpms at the idle you set it at, a high idle 1800 or something, then lower the rpms back down to a normal idle rpm. maybe 1500 1600 or something whatever. i think the book usually picks a high idle rpm speed. 1500's usually good.
and there you go. theres minor adjustments after that. like blipping the throttle back and making small adjustments to the mixture screw for best running.
now. after youve set your mixture screw and lowered the idle back down to a normal idle rpm, check how many turns out the mixture screw is set at.
if its between like 1 1/4 to 3 1/2 your good you got the right pilot. if your around 3 1/2 or 1 1/4 you might need to adjust the pilot jet. but you should be good. 3 1/2 turns or more out, the pilots rich, if its 1 1/4 or under turns out, the pilots lean.
if you find your pilots lean, then you might have that air leak. since your bikes stock and the stock jets are in it, and you got the stock jetting. so thats it.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 9, 2014 10:49:17 GMT -5
i dont know. goes to a black canister from the intake manifold? that coupler shouldnt be enough to restrict it any. as long as the hoses are the same size, and the coupler fits it.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 8, 2014 13:35:17 GMT -5
that bolt should be sealed though. unless the manifolds cracked. air going over. see if its in the manifold.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 8, 2014 13:34:05 GMT -5
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 21:23:07 GMT -5
thats what that looks like. its the only thing i could see come out of it. check in yours for the thing. the part thats missing.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 21:14:43 GMT -5
just raise your idle to about 1400 or so rpms and let it sit, blip it everyonce ina while. after around 5 mintues or maybe 10. then raise your idle with the adjustment, a tad, like to around 1650 or something, something high,idleing. and then adjust the mixture screw for the highest idle rpm. then. if it gets real high, and its still going, lower the idle back with the adjuster. to around the 1650 or so mark. then once youve got the highest idle set. remember how many turns it is. then lower yoru idle back down to 1400 or so. wherever its running good at. then check the blipping.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 21:10:23 GMT -5
wait, warm it up before you do that. first.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 21:08:07 GMT -5
were not sure. raise it just a tad, to around 1500 or so. would sound good to me, maybe 1600, using the idle adjuster. if it starts to act weird. then somethings messed up. then adjsut the mixture screw, in and out. for the highest rpms. then lower the rpms back to stock idle. 1500 maybe or so rpms. or 1400. actually i heard the manauuls 1700 rpms idle speed is kinda high. so back to 1400 or something that runs would be good. then check it give it gas. why it quit? maybe its not mixed right the screw has to be turned near the area to run right.
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