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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 11, 2014 14:25:52 GMT -5
Hey guys; I've read through the board and it seems I may be looking at a coil problem or a seat problem.
I can ride for about 15 minutes, and then it'll cut off when I slow way down or a couple of times, it did it at full throttle. Trying to restart seemed like it really wanted to, but the only solution was to leave it alone for ten minutes. That made me think heat issue, but then I realized it could have been a fuel flow issue. As far as what I've done to it lately; just replaced variator, replaced fuel and air lines, and about three weeks ago, my big ARSE caused one of the two seat support brackets to snap off (the ones that have the permanently affixed bolts sticking up that you put the seat down over and then put the nuts on; one of those snapped off). That could cause some type of pinching, I suspect, and the top of my coil does look "smushed" but I think it had always looked like that.
So:
1. What do you think it is?
2. Would JB Quick Weld be strong enough to put the bracket back on (it had been welded to the frame).
3. If it's a heat related issue, am I just out of luck?
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 11, 2014 14:31:44 GMT -5
When the pick up coil by the stator goes bad it will do this when hot also...I would test the ohms with a DVM on the pick up coil wire..you can also test the coil pack for ohms as well..I posted a great troubleshooting vid a while back see if you can find it..it will walk you through all those procedures and give you proper values to look for  Also how is your valve clearance,,if they are super tight you might be loosing compression when the motor gets hot and expands causing the valves to not seat all the way...?? |
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Post by urbanmadness on Jun 11, 2014 15:16:28 GMT -5
I agree, start with the valves. What you are describing is a common symptom of a tight exhaust valve.
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 11, 2014 15:50:33 GMT -5
If you think it is heat, move the coil and cdi BACK away from the exhaust and head of the motor more towards the rear wheel. It gets more air back there than closer to the front of the seat. There not much fresh air flows mostly hot from the head of the motor.
And JB weld will not hold your butt you need to get it welded.
Alleyoop
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 11, 2014 16:47:54 GMT -5
Ok thanks guys; I'll start with measurements and valves, though I just did valves a month or two ago to .004 and .005 (exhaust) but afterward, heard a light tapping that I hadn't heard before which I've read that most aren't concerned about. I'll get back w/results.
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Post by larry001964 on Jun 11, 2014 18:30:53 GMT -5
When the pick up coil by the stator goes bad it will do this when hot also...I would test the ohms with a DVM on the pick up coil wire..you can also test the coil pack for ohms as well..I posted a great troubleshooting vid a while back see if you can find it..it will walk you through all those procedures and give you proper values to look for Also how is your valve clearance,,if they are super tight you might be loosing compression when the motor gets hot and expands causing the valves to not seat all the way...?? My scooter did that when I first got it, looked just about at every thing, adjusted the valves multiple times, replaced the petcock, carb, what fixed it was when I took the head off and ground the valves.. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 11, 2014 19:49:58 GMT -5
I got a couple breif values to check,, For the trigger winding or pulse pick up coil you should see between 40-300ohms from green/red wire other probe to ground. For the wire that feeds the cdi AC volts from stator too charge up the internal cap(not sure what color it is on yours maybe red or blk/red)look for 300-1k ohms,and 75-120 AC volts when cranking. Coil pack should be,,primary side(where the two wires go in back)look for 1.9-2 ohms Secondary side or side the plug connects to should be around 2-4k without the boot and wire,,if the wire is on it will be 1k or 2k higher.. More info than you need but hey I had fun sharing it |
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 14, 2014 14:05:30 GMT -5
I guess I'll go .005 in and .006 out?
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Post by rexxk on Jun 15, 2014 1:41:49 GMT -5
adjust when the motors not hot. wait a good 12 or 16 or 24 hours.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 15, 2014 6:00:42 GMT -5
I guess I'll go .005 in and .006 out? I know there is no set standard among scooterists for the gap settings, but that just seems like it would be way too loose. I'm not saying a 50cc won't run that way, but I just can't wrap my head around as to why or how .004 and .005 would be too tight. |
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Post by tvnacman on Jun 15, 2014 6:41:33 GMT -5
I guess I'll go .005 in and .006 out? I know there is no set standard among scooterists for the gap settings, but that just seems like it would be way too loose. I'm not saying a 50cc won't run that way, but I just can't wrap my head around as to why or how .004 and .005 would be too tight. I set every scooter that comes my way at .004" for both they leave with some light valve tap when they come back they sound normal . I'm with you on this . Something I do as a rule of thumb I run a heavy ground from the battery all the way around the frame and engine like a buss bar and attach every green along the way . I install a second ground to the engine one on the valve cover and one on the fan cover , I use dielectric grease at all connections . I clean all the switches with WD40 till it runs clean working the switch back and forth in all positions spray them dry with air in a can (not compressed air) then squish dielectric grease into the switches and connectors . John |
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 15, 2014 15:59:26 GMT -5
Ok thanks. I'm not getting back into the valves right now. I adjusted them correctly and triple-checked them last time (and they were still almost perfect from the adjustment 18 mos prior). I am moving CDI back as Alleyoop suggested. I also have a bit of a lengthy fuel line in there going from filter to petcock; probably a foot or more, because I hate to cut hose when I don't have to in case I need some later. Can hose length effect fuel delivery? I did notice one air bubble in that line, along 3 inches of it as it sat cold. I took the gas cap off plus rocked the throttle (engine still off) to see if it affected it, and it didn't; is that a sore thumb sticking out? PS John variator works like a champ; thank you again. This was happening before variator switch.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 15, 2014 16:35:41 GMT -5
Switched CDI and moved it back; same thing. Noticed that as it begins to (overheat?) fail, the tach will jump all the way up, pegged past 10krpm (yet it's not; it was just running fine at 7.5k rpm). As it jumps up like that, you feel the power failure, then it jumps back down and life is ok, maybe for 10 seconds, maybe for a minute, then it does it again. Then, if you try to keep going/push it (which I didn't) you might get another half a mile out of it before it cuts off. Came sputtering back into the driveway. I have yet to check all the electrical signals yet, but did recheck all hoses and hose clamps (stuff I've done recently). This sucks so bad and I know it's going to be something simple.
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 15, 2014 16:50:46 GMT -5
The fuel hose from the TANK TO THE CARB MUST not have loops in it or go up and down. It is a gravity fed system so fuel has to flow DOWNHILL.
So have the fuel line as straight as possible going to the fuel inlet connector.
Alleyoop
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 15, 2014 17:42:35 GMT -5
Ok the fuel line to the petcock is almost on the same horizontal plane, though, so that line has to be perfectly straight because otherwise it'll have at least a slight droop in it with any extra... I think the original was about 9 inches long. Should I make it a perfectly straight diagonal connection, level to the ground or lower the petcock?
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
