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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 21:00:19 GMT -5
i took that pic and posted it trying to explain.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 20:59:28 GMT -5
lower your idle. quit dawdling. there. you guys are going round in round with circles over the same problem. if you cant just heres simple lower the idle screw. it should slowly, and again, slowly lower the rpms. until the bike cant run no more. if you cant do that, you have another problem. his little idle screw is so turned in, its wayy up on idle. that idle screw, is like a secondary gas pedal think iof it like that. trying to think of a way to tell him this. ok. so if you let off the gas pedal, what stops it from dying? right/  thats the idle adjustment screw. now turn that sucker until its on 0. then turn it in, just a bit. thats what carburetor tuning books say., everybodys gotta learn from somewhere. thats not even step 1. step 1 is, set the throttle at 0. using ure adjustment screw. with the throttle cable unhooked. then after its at 0. hook up the throttle cable. now look for slak when you pull back the throttle at the handlebar. like 1/8 or a 1/16 of an inch. its for safety, you NEED that. cause, if its too tight you can go around a corner and itll give it gas as you turn the handle bar, and You dont want that. ok now just follow my steps. also, its to be able to adjust the carburetor right. 2nd step. raise the idle a little, by using the screw. just a tad bit. then a little bit more. not much. alright. thats what keeps it going when you let off the gas. 3rd step. reset the mixture adjustment screw. turn the screw all the way in. then count out. 2 turns. now start it up. and mkae a video. if the idles real low, raise it just a little. but if you crank up that, idle adjustment screw, then.. THEN itll throw your circuits on thecarb off. sorry just had to throw that big lingo in there. itll make it run like yoru giving it 10% gas pedal. instaed of 1-2%. it should be so low, that by the carburtetor book no air flow interupts and carburetes, .. the air high low pressure term, around the throttle, butterfly. or slide. the thing you turn with the idle adjustment screw. is that too complicated? just follwo that and never raise the idle up too high. and it should be adjustable down until it quits. like slowly. and the reason .. its not running..... is .. because its at the wrong circuit, like circuit as in 10% throttle and its mixed, as in tuned, the carburetor, the nmixture screw, its part of the adjustment in aprethesis, wrong. |
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 20:41:20 GMT -5
reset the mixture screw, use the stock setting. its in the manual. but should be around 2 turns from all the way in, out. restet it and do it again. if it dies. or wont stay going. find out why. if the idles not adjustable. then hes got another problem.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 20:39:38 GMT -5
lower it anyway. find the 0 and then open it a little. listen. the carbs are made to run with it just cracked. crack the idle. just a tad. reset the mixture screw.
if it wont run then theres another problem. that you gotta figure out.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 20:38:49 GMT -5
dude the idle screw is directly like connected to the gas pedal. it has nothing to do with mixing anything. dont think its an air adjuster. you have a 0. but you are supposed to crack it open. even at a 0, the pilot jet hole sucks al ittle air in. but its not enough to really keep it running. you crack it open just a tad. tahts why the throttle cable needs to be adjsuted with the idle screw turned all the way out. and give you about an 1/8 or a 1/16 th inch slack. then you turn it like a tad in. like from 0-100. like a maybe 1? id say 1/2 to most 2 or somethign 3. its just enough to make it run. thats how its worte in a carburetor manual. just enough to make it run at idle. which is barely any. like you would want to barely see a crack of light, then connect it to your bike. after, AFTER adjusting the throttle cable first.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 20:36:11 GMT -5
Ok THANK YOU, guess we will not worry about it and just set it up so that it bogs when you give it gas and having it idle high so when he comes to a stop and puts on the brakes the motor dies. having it idle high? whos idea was that? i said, change the idle screw. lower your idle. you guys think that the idle rpm screw and the mixture screw have something to do with each other? |
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 20:31:49 GMT -5
So exactly what do you recommend he should do rexxk? Your posts ramble on about this and that, but you never give clear concise advice as to what he should do. Alleyoop is following troubleshooting procedures, ruling out one thing at a time, and attempting to diagnose something based on the rider's input and videos. You jumping into the middle of things just confuses the situation, and without clear concise advice, does not help. lower YOUR Idle. rpms. lower them until the point the tire doesnt spin. or.. to rule out the rest of it, remove the belt. until you can get rid of the bog. i just lower my idle and it quits. maybe his springs are made different. i dont have a tach to compare. but im telling you the stand or this bike shouldnt be having a load problem. not at his rpms. and it should be a problem at them rpms. or 1000 rpms. but he shouldnt have a load right at 1000 rpms either. |
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 20:30:03 GMT -5
Look at this Video do you see the rear wheel spinning do you see the BELL on the clutch spinning(NO). That is what we are trying to accomplish SO IT DOES NOT PUT A LOAD ON THE MOTOR and cause it to die at low RPMS. Alleyoop how about, lower your idle thats an idea. thought this was atirck question, for a minute. |
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 20:27:00 GMT -5
there isnt a load to worry abou tits on center stand and it shouldnt kill like that. fix it first then worry about what speed the clutch engages, or change your idle later. or if youdont like it, change clutch springs. first fix the idle and mix.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 20:22:54 GMT -5
but whats considered too low rpms for load on the motor? no load should kill the motor unless its loaded down, and it has to spin pretty fast to get the clutch to catch, spin th erear wheel. so dont worry about it.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 20:16:35 GMT -5
your the one who says hand tighten to this guy a clutch nut are you testing him?
a load on a motor is work. so any work the motor does. if its running you dont call that load. or loading.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 20:09:30 GMT -5
going up a hill, is brakign in reverse. a motor is making horsepower. all it is is a pushing or pulling machine. it runs things. works. pretty much goes up and down and is connceted to some crankshaft rod. which spins a shaft, that you connect to your bicycle tire to turn you and go up a hill with. each bang of themotor is a load. if you add more its called adding a load. once its running, its running you cant call it that anymore.
give it gas, its called a load. work.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 20:05:39 GMT -5
why is the rear wheel spinning so fast that if you put on the brakes it dies?
that doesnt really make sense. those are 2 seperate things.
spinning so fast. maybe like i said its lean and very torquey. its on the center stand. no load on the bike. then you slam the brakes real quick. it loads up the motor. and sicne its lean. ever had a leancarb? its lke when he revs it back, hes puttting a load, the piston bangs and thats a load. that is. and it dies.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 20:02:51 GMT -5
its putting strain since the clutch bell is attached then to the motor if its spinning the rear wheel. hit the brakes, its like hitting th egas and going up a hill. your putting a load on it.
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Post by rexxk on Jun 7, 2014 20:00:50 GMT -5
Forget about 1100 rpms it will NOT IDLE at 1600 rpms and at that point BECAUSE the Clutch is already engaged and turning the rear wheel to fast IF HE PUT ON THE BRAKES TO STOP THE REAR WHEEL FROM SPINNING THE MOTOR DIES. WHAT WOULD YOU SAY IS THE PROBLEM? engine braking. strain. lean. dies. ive said that like a billion times, already |
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