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Post by rexxk on Jul 11, 2014 0:38:08 GMT -5
i used the koso sliders on teh 2nd variator. and they just got chewed up. i didnt know why. hmm. never seen it happen, but dont see much either. the first koso, i didnt like how they looked, see through, like, how the light went through them, some. a little, see through. within 100 soemthing miles i done some tuning, and they had came off and i swapped them. i been using chinese sliders for a long time.
hmm now tht i think of it i have no idea what happend to all teh variators.
heres the facts, i bought 3. i know one broke with koso sliders in it. this one ive got now, has had chinese sliders, i checked them over and they had small marks. i took them out as soon as i got them, the koso sliders that came with them. i replaced the chinese ones with polini when they came in. i was afraid to blow a variator. done some roller weight changing and took the variator apart, and the sliders where almost ate through.
looked over my cvt, and noticed. as i was putting the variator, and ramp plate, with rollers and guides on, and drive boss, assembled, in, it would get up to the shaft, and it was hard to push on. i put the variator on, then was able to push the boss through, kind of hard. i never noticed that, remembered that, from before happenning. like that that was never the way it installed, and thought. that's kind of weird. then i tried assembling it in my hand and just putting the drive boss up through it and looking and seeing if the hole was centered, for the shaft, the crankshaft arm, to go through. and it was a little off. i took the stock ramp and put on it, and it lined up, the drive boss lined up with the variator ramp plate hole. the whole thing just slid on, and wasnt tough to put on, didnt get hard to push on.
erm. yea thats what happened. 1st variator took some practice rollers, cause i was tuning and modding my cvt, the practice rollers chewed up. also another thing i notice, is all my roller weights including my sliders get pretty ate up with a 1500 spring i got in it. its likei dont need it. practice rollers ate the covers off and went sideways in the variaotr. it broke
then the 2nd, i hadnt used it 100 miles. never done anything was getting ready to swap rollers, then took a quick ride, and almost wheelied taking off then it ran bad after that. came back. and the guides came out in pieces and the variator was torn up, it had been dug into breaking it.
then this one. i threw away the alst variator. dont remember anything about it. different. you know not much.
this one ive noticed that, and the rollers i had put in, where getting flat spots pretty quick. the guides, wehre breaking on the like, if the variators on yoru bike, and it turns, to the left, like most. the right side where getting ate into.
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Post by rexxk on Jul 10, 2014 21:57:32 GMT -5
unhook carb by the clamp,and look down in it, they should be sagging or cracked. i think yamaha, have metal reeds. better would be .3mm carbon fiber reeds. better response. if there not sealed, you mihgt break gaskets doing it, if they dont seal against the cage, if there sagggin a little, theyre worn, wearing. if there broken, chipped, there leaking and need replaced. if theyre metal and are broke, you mihgt want to chcek it you might of just caught it, take the top end off, you can watch videos on the internet. you can hold the rings against the piston and slide the cylinder back on, you mihgt break a, base gasket.. rip one.
and well, get the clyinder off and take the motor off ad wash out the bottom end with gas a few times. to be sure no metal is in there.
your carb might just be stopped up. if you broke a metal reed and it went in your motor it might, scratch the cylinder, get in a bearing and break it. its better to get carbon fiber, theyll pretty much shoot out. is what i heard. just replace your carbon fibers, like ever 3-4000 miles ive heard. fiberglass more like 4-6000 miles. earlier to be on the safe side of both of those.
your carb might just need cleaned though. the jets. maybe the pilots stopped up. maybe the whole carb just needs took apart, find some diagram of it, online with all the parts took out. like, where you can buy all the individual parts of it, and take it apart, and blow it out with comporessed air, then clean it out, spray it out with carb cleaner and go back over with compressed air and look down your jets to make sure there clean.
you can unhook carb without breaking a gasket.
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Post by rexxk on Jul 10, 2014 19:30:21 GMT -5
your petcocks bad.
erm if the rear wheel isnt spinning very good. are your back brakes too tight? you could take off the cvt, and get to teh final drive cover, and take it off. youll probably break a gasket doing it. and look it there open it, to see if its messed up. if not, as long as nothings missing, it should run fine. if the bearings are fine.
dribble mode pretty much means your petcocks screwed up. you can take it off and try to clean it, with like carb cleaner or soemthing.
as long as gas doesnt come out the vacuum side. cause it would flood your motor. if you had the vacuum line hooked up to the carb. or intake.
what bike? if the vacuum side isnt got gas coming out of it, the needle float in the carb will keep it from flooidng you out. as long as your floats set right. if you have gas coming out of your carb, then the floats, not set right, maybe, or the seat on the, pin that stops the gas hole up on the carb is dirty or torn up. if its leaking you can clean it with toothpaste like, a light scratcher.
itll smell a little gassy doing it that way. as long as the vacuum side doesnt leak you can still use it.
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Post by rexxk on Jul 9, 2014 6:24:44 GMT -5
get an exhuast on it or it wont run
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Post by rexxk on Jul 8, 2014 4:02:17 GMT -5
i just noticed when i went out to swap my slider weights in, i had never had a problem before with the guides. i once had stock koso sliders crap out and take out the variator. well. so. heres my thing ive ran into and what ive found out. this far.
i went out to change the sliders, and the guides, i bought some polini, where dug into and almost cut through. i just caught it in time. most are in the garbage, i have one left sitting on my desk. all 3 where getting hit on the same spot. the back spot. like if the variator goes forwards, and mine has a smooth round plate, the hole is round, not splined to the crankshaft. which means it can not turn, but it turns with the variator. the variator goes around with the belt, unless the belt slips. it keeps from maybe breaking the guides if the belt is slipping and the belts burning up the variator. and getting it hot. so these hit marks on teh guides, are which direction the variators taking damage in, what way theyre messing up. this variator is the same as on a qmb139. anything that the ramp plate isnt splined to the crankshaft.
also im running a 1500 center spring. the thing is i never had a problem before. ive been running this same spring and this setup for the past however long, almost 3000 miles. never broke guides before or nothing. ive been using the same, brand of variator the whole time. a koso.
well, the first one went out cause i was doing so much cvt tuning, i used some practice weights, there cheap only meant to be used to check how it runs on a quick ride, then you switch over to real brand. i used aset, for a 30 mile ride down the road and back, cause i didnt have weights in that weight. i came back and took the variator apart, and the guides where broke, and the roller weights came out, all torn apart. the outer part was took off.
so then i got another koso variator. well. went with legit rollers. used the slides that came with it. the time before, i had been using the ones that came withit for a while, but i thought they looked thin, cuase they looked almost see through, a little bit. so i switched them out as soon as they popped off, with the same chinese guides i use everytime. and i had been using. well, the new koso variator the guides where almost stuck on, so i just went with them. after some use they would wear down some, break in, and pop off when i took it off. well, right before iwent to switch some roller weights, i go down the road. this time it started, almost wheelied on me when i took off,then after that, started riding different. i took my 3 mile trip. came back, and took off the variator. the guides came out broke to pieces. i was like ahhh crap. so inbetween waiting on this one, it took so long i hooked up the stock variator back on. used some guides chinese ones i usually always use.
oh yea, so then i put my new koso when it finally arrived on. went out today, havent road 50 miles, to swap sliders out, the guides i used was a set of polini. they where almost ate through. roller weights looked like they had some big flat spots on them.
so, i figured maybe it was the rollers the cvt doesnt like them as much. i had used them though, before. that and ive never messed up guides. hardly ever changed them. i decided to look at the stock variator. that i had just got done using and the guides i had on it. they where startign to get ate through. the other slides, i think i finally threw them all in the garbage, tehy had been used so much. but i got them from the same place these i got from. so theres no reason they should of tore up. they had some cutting marks in them, just say that. so i have no idea. i was actually using heavier weights on that variator, and this one, all the time so far, this time. also, dont know if this had anythig to do with it. its what i thought might be causing it. the hole in the variator ramp plate, i found was a little off center. i couldnt put the boss in the variator, and slide it and the whole thing on teh crankshaft without it binding up. a little. i had to jam it in there. i looked at it, and lined it up, with teh ramp plate on the back, and put the boss through and looked thorugh it, and the boss was a little off the middle. i took the stock ramp plate from my stock variator and used it and it lines up right in the middle.
ok, so now writing this out, im thinking, the heavier weights, and the way the guides are getting hit at. its when its shifting down. but ive never had, a shifting down eating up my guides problem before. but i also was using lighter roller weights. all the time before. i might have tried this weight before, but didnt like it and took it out within not many miles. might even have guides with some marks dug into them if i looked, but i threw them in the garbage. also before, i never had the bike tuned, to where it pulls real hard, its usually just been, just took off not a lot faster than a stock bike, just faster speed and faster pull to top speed. but not really a lot.
so, im thinking since im using about 1.5grams heavier weights now and the back, side of the guides are whats getting dug into. but ive also never seen this problem before. ive seen people use these 1500 springs, and a half gram heavier than i am now, and never seen them swap out variators a lot.
but, they was also using the wider cvt and im using the same spring on both. that was my cvt messing around i was doing. with the wider cvt, the spring probbaly had a little bit more of some play. anyway so it was like spring was loaded at a higher percent. 1000% 1500% springs.
so, now im thinking the only thing i can do is switch back down to a spring as long as my cvt acts right. the only time i ever needed to switch springs is when, i got to the bottom of a hill, and my cvt wouldnt upshift, back to 1st, at the bottom when i tried comign up the other side. a 1000% spring took care of that. when i got a new variator. and stuff.
so, im thinking the spring is trying to shift it back, the back to ramp halves, back togehter, and the front trying to slide the belt back inbetween the front to ramps, and up the back of the back 2 ramps, and the heavy roller weights arent letting it go back down. and its hitting the back of the ramp as the variator is pushed back when im letting of the gas and the motors sort of engine braking.
as long as itll shift back down. so im going to switch back down to the other spring and see.
but ive been running the stock ramp plate back on. so ill see if after some riding i done a little today aroudn 10 miles, if its digging into it. guess ill find out. if i see later, its digging into it, ill swap out the spring, anyway. im goign to anyway i dont see no reason i need it. ive only used it since i put the bbk on. but never had guides geting broke. until now. and if its fine then, the ramp might of been off center, causing it to push on the back. or if its eating then the rear spring might be too much. ill have to switch then test and check again, some more later.
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Post by rexxk on Jul 6, 2014 19:35:12 GMT -5
Sorry i dont understand crack baby vocabulary... i dont know maybe you guys should ban me for the lie alleoop told earlier now. of course he beleves lies and doesnt believe the lie he told earlier hes the worst hypocrit ever. and of course all you guys believe that if your around a scooter, that works, you know everything. hahahaha babble talk.
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Post by rexxk on Jul 6, 2014 17:49:22 GMT -5
yea new. the letter b.
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Post by rexxk on Jul 6, 2014 16:03:51 GMT -5
why doesnt the nut go on there farther than it does? that looks like it barely gets up on the threads. is it stripped past that? just make sure it gets tight.
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Post by rexxk on Jul 5, 2014 21:57:43 GMT -5
looks like your belt isnt going all the way up to the top of your variator. and you where cutting in and out at top speed. you got the airbox hooked up right? and the air filter in? sometimes too light roller weights can make you get too high rpms and the belt not go all the way up to the top of the variator. it might bounce up and down. have you messed with the roller weights? how old are they?
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Post by rexxk on Jul 5, 2014 16:23:18 GMT -5
mann that scoooter owns in that video.
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Post by rexxk on Jul 5, 2014 16:20:30 GMT -5
also i dont hit spell check, cause a machine didnt write nothing. i should spellcheck myself, if i where to, but i aint. so im not gonna either. .. you never learn if you dont do nothing yourself. i learned that in school.
i was gonna finish oh yea what his sliders where breaking about. clutch pads where worn and revving up to high.
.. i dont think so. but the clutch isnt touching the sliders. so its not proven. i take it usually like that everyone knows engineering terms and it dosnt have to be laid out for you. but theres an engineering term im looking for here. it means redundant. thats why i dont say it. i thnk everyone wuld get that.
if it doesnt touch but breaks it, it seems to be an engineering flaw. not a something that broke cause of this. cuase he thinks his bikes more torquey pulling more weight than that 2-stroke kit outrunning a hayabusa racing motorcycle. hahahaha. no its noot.
ive even seen unless their putting the wrong numbers,.. 4000rpm grab springs. now you tell me how the sliders are messed up that way.
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Post by rexxk on Jul 5, 2014 16:14:12 GMT -5
metal on metal contact, seperated by a gasket. hmm id call that broke. read the topic title.
and i didnt learn nothing. you cant put what you fixed or what you done, in simple form. you gotta attack me with it.
let me put it since im able to comprehend.
you fixed, which wasnt even your topic title, a clutch that had worn out pads. you didnt prove nothing, and you didnt, say anything.
now we can all freely state whatever we feel like. your topic title your first post was your sliders broke, you started questioning that it was something else. you never stated it. i didnt read your little conversations, i mind my own business. i didnt take them into account in my replies, HUMM I WONDER WHY. ohj thats right cause i dont care. thats right.
so what about my replies dont you get?
let me finish your supposed fix to this bike. the clutch pads where worn, and causing the rpms to rise too high.
i was replying to this guy simply. very simply to him just incase he didnt know nothing. well, you guys still didnt prove nothing to prove me wrong. earlier you where wrong on a tach setup. while calling me worng and making up stuff about me.
go read it for yourself.
so i dont get what about my posts didnt make sense and if they didnt make sense, then why where you replying. makes sense to me.
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Post by rexxk on Jul 4, 2014 14:21:47 GMT -5
never spend anytime searching for videos, eh?
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Post by rexxk on Jul 4, 2014 14:20:04 GMT -5
dur does your belt have slack? any, i mena just a tiny bit? i mean fit like a glove? if not i would think its the belt. or the thing the belt goes on, the scooter. thats the problem. are you putting it on irght? theres no adjustments so its all to putting it on right. you got the right size belt? how much slack dontcha have? can you find a different belt? use the same angle and width of belt though as your stock one. cause them pulleys ride on that. maybe theres a longer belt if you have a bunch of too much tightness.
your springs or what speed your bikes starts going at, doesnt matter. thats not your problem. i tried to tell you. maybe its the quality? tell me again about all that takeoff torque you have?
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Post by rexxk on Jul 4, 2014 14:14:56 GMT -5
no it dosnt occur to me you can use the variator again after it breaks. i read that. ive done that thats why i know. thats why i call it gaskets. and seals.
how do you think the cvt works? it works, left and right. not up and down. it relies on seals and gaskets to keep smooth flow operation. once it breaks once, youve dug a ditch. the ramp plate will now ride on this ditch. sliders, the guides, plastic, arent made to ride on a ditch,now are they? theyre made to slide, straight up and down. plastic isnt goign to wear the outta metal. so it would take a long time as long as they never made metal to metal contact to wear out.
and no i dont think you sanded it smooth enough to keep high speed runs and long runs to keep from breaking those, and wiping out your cvt, crankshaft and anything else in there ............. man.
thats what the point is when talkign about cvt, the freakign belt. these thigns SUCK when they break, and nobody wants a broke belt. how do you get one of those home? you push it 2 miles. thats how.
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