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Post by keikara on Jun 13, 2015 22:24:12 GMT -5
Update: So checked the needle was one step from being at the bottom so all the way rich, at least as far as the needle, so i replaced the 106 main with the 110, and put the clip to the top of the needle. Scooter has more power now but still has a slight bog, I am not finished adjusting the a/f got to dark to continue, but I think I may move the clip down one or two spots and see what that does.
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Post by keikara on Jun 13, 2015 18:55:44 GMT -5
Just filled up today, I only have the uni filter, and my carb is not quite dialed in correctly but, am avg. 56.5 mpg over 162 miles and 3 fill ups. And I know you weren't asking but is costing $0.053 per mile And these calculations are using the mileage off my speedo and using Fuelly to calculate. Wow that thing is sucking fuel !! Is your speedo accurate ? No I think its at least 5 mph off was going by a police radar, speedo said 40 and was doing 35 on radar.
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Post by keikara on Jun 13, 2015 16:16:52 GMT -5
Just filled up today, I only have the uni filter, and my carb is not quite dialed in correctly but, am avg. 56.5 mpg over 162 miles and 3 fill ups. And I know you weren't asking but is costing $0.053 per mile And these calculations are using the mileage off my speedo and using Fuelly to calculate.
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Post by keikara on Jun 12, 2015 19:13:16 GMT -5
was planning on whatever I did, to reset the a/f and start over with adjusting it.
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Post by keikara on Jun 12, 2015 18:59:00 GMT -5
Update I have not removed my carb yet but did just richen the a/f up a half turn and the bogging got less, so will try a little more and see if I can get rid of it that way, but will still be tearing the carb down this weekend and moving the needle, and then re-adjust and see where I am, and if I need to go up to a bigger main jet. Now when I richened the mixture I had no change in idle rpm, but it did help with the bog. That's perfect . I still think the 106 is possibly too small. I'd at least put a 108 in there. Only problem is I don't have a 108, have a 105 and a 110, may just throw the 110 in and let her eat and see what happens lol
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Post by keikara on Jun 12, 2015 15:05:53 GMT -5
Any performance gain? I know removing the same system on a car equals more power, same effect on a scooter? No emissions where I'm at. I have removed the emissions on my scooter as well, other than having to adjust the carb, due to no longer having un-burnt fuel recycled, I have seen no improvement in how my scooter runs. May be wrong but I don't think these scooters are producing enough power for any difference to be noticeable.
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Post by keikara on Jun 12, 2015 15:00:19 GMT -5
I have been too lazy to attempt modifying mine, instead I have a mental list of which pumps at which stations pump slow enough lol anyone know the reason there is that guard in the tank anyway? I would say the only reason I can tell that it is in there is so you know where to stop so you do not overfill your tank. At least that is what I use it for. I have notices as long as I put the nozzle into the tank and put it over to the side of the fill neck, have not had a problem with any splashing, and I only fill until gas is just above it.
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Post by keikara on Jun 12, 2015 12:13:40 GMT -5
Update I have not removed my carb yet but did just richen the a/f up a half turn and the bogging got less, so will try a little more and see if I can get rid of it that way, but will still be tearing the carb down this weekend and moving the needle, and then re-adjust and see where I am, and if I need to go up to a bigger main jet. Now when I richened the mixture I had no change in idle rpm, but it did help with the bog.
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Post by keikara on Jun 12, 2015 11:59:43 GMT -5
If you use tin snips should have less of a chance of any sparks. Using a cutting wheel of any sort would produce sparks and could have an explosion. And after cutting with the tin snips if there is any of the tab still in the filler neck just push it down to where its out of the way.
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Post by keikara on Jun 11, 2015 21:32:49 GMT -5
What's the benefits to removing that system? Having one less system that can cause problems. However if you are in an area that requires emission testing on scooters, you do not want to remove it, it will cause you to fail and will not be able to re-register. Again tho that is only if emissions are required for your scooter.
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Post by keikara on Jun 11, 2015 19:39:55 GMT -5
Just got home and yes the new carb I am using that was sent to me by the awesome dmartin95, had a 102 main in it stock. The additional jets that were sent to me as well were a 105, 106, and a 110. So I think I will try moving the needle first and if that doesn't work move it back down and then try the 110 jet.
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Post by keikara on Jun 11, 2015 16:46:18 GMT -5
My stock main in the carb was a 102 I believe, would have to look and see what the smallest main I have at home is, that's the one that came out of the carb. I think I will try to up jet the carb then retune, and if that fixes it than great. And yes when I first setup the carb with the 106 jet I did adjust to get the highest rpm out of it. So looks like I will be pulling my carb on Sunday and seeing what I have.
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Post by keikara on Jun 11, 2015 15:24:23 GMT -5
I agree , but if it were me , I'd upjet instead of just raising the needle. 106 is small with a uni installed. I know you still have the stock exhaust , but installing the uni still let in more air. This is my whole point about these scoots " even stock bore" can take much more air and fuel then others think. You just install a uni and the engine is already screaming for more fuel. I'm not saying he should by a bigger carb. I'm just explaining how these scoots can gain from a bigger carb . of course you can jut keep up jetting your stock carb , but it will be more restrictive then a bigger carb. I think a 26mm carb would be just fine on a stock setup. Problem Is , I've never tried it , so I cannot varify that. So do you think if I just up jet the main it could fix the bogging between 4-5k. If so I do have a few more main jets at home, think I have a 108 and a 110 at home. But it isn't running lean at WOT that is why I was thinking the pilot jet needed to be larger. Idle is fine at 1800 rpm, clutch stats to engage at 3k between 3-4k scooter will pull fine hits 4k falls on its face until 5k then will have no problems until I have to slowdown ad the rpms get below 5k. And I believe (will have to back and read) but I think they were saying to lower the needle as to lean it out some.
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Post by keikara on Jun 10, 2015 22:26:58 GMT -5
I think I paid about $25.00 the first year for registration, and this last renewal was around $30.00 but was for two years. In Arizona they also go by the value of the vehicle. My parents new vehicle cost them around $400.00, but my older car was $25.00 for the year, or around $45 for two years. On the cars also have to do emissions every two years for around $20.00, but for motorcycles and scooters, no emissions required.
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Post by keikara on Jun 10, 2015 17:55:00 GMT -5
It obviously was sealed for a reason i dont think u are refferring to the image im talking about I looked at that picture, and yes it does look like something had broken off of it, with the jagged edge, lighter coloring from the surrounding metal. That shouldn't have anything to do with the white smoke, however, if it is opening into the cylinder itself that would amount for the power loss due to loss of compression. Hard to say for 100% tho.
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