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Post by keikara on Jun 10, 2015 16:11:51 GMT -5
personally and this is just me, i am in the say climate as you, but way higher in elevation....106 seems small, i would be shimming the needle up, you might be to rich but with your symptoms i usually increase fuel and they go away, trail and error thou...good luck. i have 6 to 8 scooters depending on the day, and i typically run, a drilled exhaust, tuned variator and 108 to 112 jet i think your enricher is shutting off and then your losing that aux fuel source and slowing down. Yea I am in Phoenix AZ so it is about to start getting hot here, to me anything over 105 F. is hot LOL. The only upgrade to my scooter is a uni filter, everything else is stock, stock variator, and stock muffler. Also don't know if this would make a difference but on the center stand the scoot will rev from idle to redline with no bogging, but as soon as I go for a ride it will rev up to about 4k then bogs until just about the 5k and then will go all the way to 7k rpm with no problem, I can vary the throttle and anywhere from 5k and up when I twist the throttle I can feel it just pick up and go, but if I have to slow down to where the rpms drop below 5k it will bog until it is above the 5k again. |
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Post by keikara on Jun 10, 2015 16:05:32 GMT -5
The piston skirt would be the side of the piston where the rings go, to the bottom of the piston, as for the cylinder wall would be the jug that the piston sits in when it is put together, just try to get clear pictures of the walls to see if any scratches, or anything. As for the ring gap, take the ring that was on the top set of the piston, put it carefully into the jug and make sure it is even, then take a picture showing what the gap in the end of the ring is. That is what they are looking for.
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Post by keikara on Jun 10, 2015 15:18:54 GMT -5
Running good when cold and suffering when hot usually indicates you are too rich. Since it only happens at 4-5k RPMs, you should try lowering the needle by raising the clip on it, or removing washer spacers if used. Be sure to thoroughly inspect the diaphragm, though tears/holes in the diaphragm usually make it run to lean. Thanks I will try this. Don't know if the needle in the carb is adjustable, but I have needles from three other bad carbs that are adjustable just a matter of pulling the carb and switching it out. |
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Post by keikara on Jun 10, 2015 12:52:18 GMT -5
I have a similar problem, it happens only when the scoot is cold, I replaced the carb recently with a bigger carb, so in my case I believe the problem is it is running rich, I haven't bother to fix it because I will be installing a BBK soon, I hope that will fix it. My scooter does the opposite, it has less bog while cold and as it warms up the bog gets a little worse, I have had on a warm almost 100 deg F. day that after about 20 min of riding the bogging or loss of power between 4-5k rpm was very noticeable. I have a new quality kehin (sp?) carb. |
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Post by keikara on Jun 10, 2015 11:20:08 GMT -5
So I have a 2013 Jonway 150cc scooter, just replaced the motor about 500 miles ago, along with the motor replaced the cdi, starter solenoid, and carb, carb has stock pilot jet, and a 106 main, with uni filter. Scooter will start right up with just an easy push of the starter button, revs up and drops back correctly. However when I take off the scooter starts to move at 3k rpm and will pull to 4k with power, once I hit 4k it falls on its face, can hear a slight bog, but slowly picks up speed. Once at almost 5k scooter will stop bogging and start to pull again all the way to wot. Have pulled plug and plug looks good not running rich or lean. My question is do I need to change the pilot jet to a bigger jet, or just fiddle with the a/f mixture. If I take off while the enricher is still on the bog is still there but not as bad.
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Post by keikara on Jun 8, 2015 14:34:51 GMT -5
Yea there are only a couple of the cars on the show that are "street legal" meaning plated, insured, and appearing to be stock. My biggest thing is when people say "they are not the fastest street cars", the only one on the show who really ever stated they had a street car was "The Cutty", as for the rest they say they have "the fastest street raced cars". And if I personally owned a car that was worth more than my house I would trailer them to the race as well lol. And yes I am a fan of the show, watch it every week and have most of the drivers on my facebook, some of them I am "friends" with and some just following because they already had to many "friends".
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Headlight
by: keikara - Jun 8, 2015 14:22:48 GMT -5
Post by keikara on Jun 8, 2015 14:22:48 GMT -5
www.ebay.com/itm/271653564892?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&rmvSB=true
This is a link that someone else had posted to another rider that has a 2014 taotao atm50. Not sure if they are the same or not, but supposed to be a plug and play kit.
edit: 6. If you upgrade your headlight, use an HID like this: LINK $19.00 to the door and they are plug and play... Wire coloring will even mate up. The biggest bonus, you will not have do any "mods" other than swap the actual bulb into your existing head lamp reflector. I have installed this very kit in two scooters now and you just can not imagine how bright they are.
Your original bulb is likely a 25/25 watt and this kit is only 35/35 watts. A 10 watt difference.... However, like Jerry suggest, swap out your blinker (1156) and stop light bulbs (1157) with LED's and you will recapture that lost 10 watts.
Read more: itistheride.boards.net/thread/7207/taotao-atm50-mods#ixzz3cV4yoFw9 That is a direct copy of what was said regarding this light with a link to the actual forum post.
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Post by keikara on Jun 8, 2015 13:27:32 GMT -5
I installed thicker fuel line, this time clear. If the fuel in the line will not raise higher than the bowl that is okay? The thinner line would fill up the entire line and filter. Test on the road soon. I believe but may be wrong, as long as you have flow into the carb should be o.k., doesn't need to fill the supply line completely, as long as it has enough flow to keep the carb full. |
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Post by keikara on Jun 8, 2015 13:25:05 GMT -5
Nice looking scoot. Congrats on your new ride hope you have many fun and safe miles on it.
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Headlight
by: keikara - Jun 8, 2015 13:21:36 GMT -5
Post by keikara on Jun 8, 2015 13:21:36 GMT -5
Depending on your style of scooter, you may have to remove the whole front clip to get to the lights. I have a Jonway scooter and to get to my headlights I have to remove the front clip in order to be able to service them. As for putting in an led light should be able to. What model and year of scooter do you have and one of the peeps on here should be able to tell you what will work and the best way to install.
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Post by keikara on Jun 8, 2015 13:17:11 GMT -5
I have done both, had just one fuel filter after tank and before fuel petcock, and then had one before the fuel petcock and one after before carb, now I am just running one fuel filter after the tank and before the fuel petcock. As long as you have a fuel filter somewhere before the carb you will be fine. It is just there to keep anything from in the gas tank making it into the carb.
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Post by keikara on Jun 5, 2015 19:29:04 GMT -5
So an update, got home sprayed some penetrating oil I had into the lock, played with it and it popped open. Now waiting to find out if and how the warranty works.
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Post by keikara on Jun 5, 2015 16:12:59 GMT -5
So heard back from the manufacture, they also said to try wd-40, so will try when I get home. They did say they would warranty the lock but is less than one year old, so don't think I will use them again. Probably just go buy a chain and a master lock, have never had a problem with master lock before. I have a big chunky chain and a master padlock, it works fine  Yep never had a problem with master locks, have had one sitting in the elements for over two years, put the key in and unlocks with no problems. So I will be going to get a nice chain and new lock when I can, now to just get the lock off the rotor. |
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Post by keikara on Jun 5, 2015 15:44:42 GMT -5
So heard back from the manufacture, they also said to try wd-40, so will try when I get home. They did say they would warranty the lock but is less than one year old, so don't think I will use them again. Probably just go buy a chain and a master lock, have never had a problem with master lock before.
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Post by keikara on Jun 5, 2015 10:56:52 GMT -5
Has anyone have any experience with the Lil Bully disk lock or any other type really, and had an issue where the tumbler will not turn to let you remove the lock. I went to leave for work this morning and spent 10 min trying to get the lock to open, ended up breaking the plastic end off the key while trying to unlock. Hoping someone has an idea that might work, I really do not want to have to replace my rotor because I can't get this lock off. I have emailed the manufacture to see what their ideas would be and to find out about any warranty on these locks.  |
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