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Post by keikara on Jun 1, 2015 23:57:04 GMT -5
On my new motor the way I broke it in was, no wot, and varying rpms as much as possible for the first 100 miles. Changed the oil at 100 miles, and have started to ride it more "normal" not riding it as hard as the original motor lol. Changed gear oil also at 100 miles. Will probably change oil again after 500 miles, then every 1000. My scooter is a daily driver, four days a week are 10 miles round trip, and one day a week is 28 miles round trip. Had just over 4k on original motor, but I did the "ride it like ya stole it" break in method. Ended up with an oil leak after 2k, and then died just after 4k. So here's to hoping I can get more miles out of this one.
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Post by keikara on Jun 1, 2015 23:46:18 GMT -5
When I did the egr delete on my scooter, I just left the tube hooked to that like it is, and have had no problems with it leaking. It is basically a vent for the gas tank that went to the charcoal canister (Big plastic thing). If you overfill your tank there is a chance of gas coming out of it. As for the type of filter if you go that route, any filter would work. It is just there in the case of the tank being overfilled and gas going down the vent tube. To keep the gas from escaping, and to allow the tank to be vented. Also if your gas cap is vented you may be able to just cap the tube off not needing the vent.
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Post by keikara on May 31, 2015 15:45:20 GMT -5
The bolt is attached to the jug, where the piston is. To remove from the motor would have to disassemble the top end. Prolly be easier to just pull the entire motor and "stand it up" to get to the bolt. Or if you were able to secure the front wheel off the ground to where you could slide under the scooter, I would only do if guaranteed not gonna fall, would suck to be under and have the scoot fall on top of you.
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Post by keikara on May 31, 2015 1:07:30 GMT -5
 Don't know if this is the same as what you have but looks like when you remove then have to rehook the wires that were connected to the pink and grey coming from alarm. |
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Post by keikara on May 29, 2015 22:59:20 GMT -5
Great write-up steve, good advice, should help those who are apprehensive about installing a BBK. Oh, I almost forgot. Be gentle putting the rings on the cylinder. Don't even think about picking up those needle nose pliers! They break easy. Trust me. A good trick for installing the rings is to use a hose clamp. Tighten it to compress the rings, then tap the piston into the cylinder. just a thought but do you think an oil filter wrench might work as well? |
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Post by keikara on May 29, 2015 0:18:39 GMT -5
If you have an old inner tube or something similar, try to wrap the shaft with rubber, or something and then lube so it will slide may work for ya.
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Post by keikara on May 28, 2015 23:23:59 GMT -5
I got lucky when I changed my tires, my dad has a set of tire spoons from when he went to MMI for Harley mechanics lol.
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Post by keikara on May 28, 2015 23:23:02 GMT -5
only other thing I could think of is use long flat tip screwdrivers, they may not be as wide as the axle and work like the tire irons a little better.
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Post by keikara on May 28, 2015 23:18:26 GMT -5
put a little dish soap in the water to help your "tire irons" to slide a little better.
and use a washcloth or something to put it right on the bead.
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Post by keikara on May 28, 2015 16:18:57 GMT -5
I am guessing but I think when they have that extra wrapped pole it is a/c, however I may be wrong, just seem to remember reading somewhere that a/c has that and d/c does not.
edit: I may be totally wrong, when I looked up pictures the ones they are saying are ac and the ones that state are dc both look the same and have the same plug connections.
Now my scooter has the same 4 plug and 2 wires from the stator and it is an ac system, only reason I am sure on it is the cdi I have is an ac cdi. |
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Post by keikara on May 28, 2015 11:56:34 GMT -5
exact same way I just did my engine swap on a 2013 Jon-way 150cc scooter. Only I did remove the carb prior to removing engine and then reinstalled carb after installing new motor. Remove the carb with the intake and leave it hanging on the frame connected to the throttle cables and fuel system so its all ready to slide back on when you put the original engine or a new one back in. Saves fusing with the cables, fuel lines and most of the vacuum lines. Fewer mistakes will be made hooking it all back up too which seems to be a common problem when you don't take good pictures of where everything goes before you start unplugging things. It had gotten to the point that it was a 15 minute job to slide the engine out or back in again. Makes sense if you are using the same carb, however in my situation I was replacing the carb as well as the engine. |
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Post by keikara on May 27, 2015 18:08:05 GMT -5
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Post by keikara on May 27, 2015 15:04:35 GMT -5
On my Lance 150 it was put it up on the center stand, seperate the carb from the intake leaving it hanging on the bike with the throttle cables/fuel lines still connected, disconnect the chocks, remove the pivot bolt and slide the engine out leaving the rest of the bike still sitting up on the center stand. exact same way I just did my engine swap on a 2013 Jon-way 150cc scooter. Only I did remove the carb prior to removing engine and then reinstalled carb after installing new motor. |
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Post by keikara on May 27, 2015 2:05:58 GMT -5
It's hard to tell from the picture but looks to be the same size around as my stock muffler, if it is to big, but not by alot could always put an extra piece of rubber between the muffler and clamp.
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Post by keikara on May 26, 2015 22:58:45 GMT -5
Is your scoot a 50 or 150, that would be the bracket for a 150 may have different one for the 50cc
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