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Post by JerryScript on Oct 17, 2015 19:02:09 GMT -5
There is usually a Phillips head screw that sits inside where the needle head sits. Unscrew that, then the needle should fall out. And obviously the spark plug looks like you are running way to rich. Agreed, that plug looks almost fouled from being too rich. |
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 17, 2015 7:08:20 GMT -5
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 16, 2015 18:40:33 GMT -5
To test the enricher (not a choke), hook up leads from it to the battery while it's cold. If the probe extends out about 1/4" in 2-5 minutes, it's working.
I don't recall if you got it to sputter out at anything other than WOT riding? If it only happens at WOT, it could still be a vacuum issue. At WOT, the engine produces less vacuum, which could prevent the fuel petcock from functioning. You may still find fuel in the bowl due to the vacuum coming back as the engine winds down.
Time to check the opposite out, what color is the ceramic on your spark plug (best to check with a new plug, but the old one may give a clue), and what height is the needle clip set at?
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 16, 2015 18:25:05 GMT -5
It cracks me up to see throttle position used as a break-in method on a CVT! Doesn't matter what throttle position you use, the engine speed is based on other factors, so even half throttle could reach high RPMs. Break it in like you just stole it, and forget all the nonsense!
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 6, 2015 21:06:40 GMT -5
Does the fan turn with slight resistance now? If not, the connection at the bearing may be shot.
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 6, 2015 15:52:33 GMT -5
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 6, 2015 15:50:57 GMT -5
If you decide to get a big bore kit be advised a lot it 80cc kits are really 72cc kits. Be sure it comes with a 50mm piston, not a 47mm one. The 72cc kit gives you better acceleration from a stop sign but hills still kill it. I might try a different cam as the 72cc kit with new head has bigger valves. Still stuck with the stock restrictive muffler and a tiny 19mm carb. As we used totally people at the shops who asked how fast we could make their Harley's go......How much do you have to spend! It's easy for me, another $100! The stock bore for a qmb139 is 39mm, the stroke is 41.4 for these 49cc engines. And don't believe the 100cc BBK sales pitch, it's actually 83cc (50mm)! |
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 6, 2015 7:08:13 GMT -5
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 5, 2015 13:58:33 GMT -5
BTW dmartin95, I know you're busy in your own forum these days, but I remember you asking about the head bolt spacing on the Znen BM157QMJ-3, it is 54mm, here's a pic (sorry, couldn't find my metric ruler, but just about 2 1/8" = 54mm):  |
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 5, 2015 13:47:06 GMT -5
Wow, I wouldn't feel comfy buying anything from a tire shop that didn't at least know what dynabeads are, they have been around for years, and most tire shops have a firm opinion one way or the other about them. I've seen them and another brand in several auto parts stores here in Vegas, haven't tried them but am tempted.
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 4, 2015 10:11:15 GMT -5
Sounds like a good plan, thanks guys!
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 3, 2015 22:59:13 GMT -5
Take that lead off and crimp the connector a bit. Sounds like a loose connection, some vibrations seat it, some vibrations un-seat it. Had a similar problem with a spark plug boot once, the internal clip was loose.
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 3, 2015 22:08:28 GMT -5
did you open the cvt? John Yep, mentioned it near the end of the OP above. Belt looks good, a couple of weights have slight wear, deglazed the clutch pads out of habit. I plan on switching to sliders soon, loved the difference they made on my 50cc. Otherwise I'm following your advice and keeping the internals stock (at least a while longer, though I'm beginning to feel the modding itch). |
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 3, 2015 21:23:41 GMT -5
Based on personal observation, it would seem that SSR orders their scoots with better parts and eliminates nonessential junk like remote starting etc. (I did notice that my brakes did NOT come with the "ABS" diverter valves)  Mine doesn't have "ABS" either. I'm glad because I have had to lock up the brakes twice when idiot cagers pulled out in front if me, did a front stand one time, with fake ABS, I might have hit him! I really think I got a great deal on this scooter, $1400 and recently they cut it to $1329 (I assume clearing inventory for new models). The quality is just below Aprilla or Sym, had to hunt down some rattling in the body panels, a touch of silicone fixed that, otherwise it's been nothing but a joy to ride. Best money I've spent in years! |
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 3, 2015 19:58:23 GMT -5
My 16" wheeled scooter hit 4000 miles this week, time for a tear down and inspection. I basically treat this maintenance as another PDI.
- take off all body panels
- inspect frame, all good with no rust yet
- inspect wiring, wires look good, connections solid, starter solenoid positive cable shows a bit of overheating, will keep an eye on it
- check bolts and nuts, all good none loose
- pull air filter, dang design requires pulling carb, air filter only discolored at entry, rotate 180 should be good for another 2k miles
- check valves, amazingly they are good, my first chinese scooter that didn't require frequent valve adjustments
- inspect plug, tan but not coffee colored, will try richening the mix a bit
- check tires and stems, plenty of wear left, stems still look good
- inspect CVT, belt looks good but will check every 1k, weights have some wear but plan on switching to sliders soon, deglazed clutch pads
I've been riding on the freeway for a few months now, still cruises fine 60-65, and can push 70 when needed, hit 83 downhill with strong back wind the other day, I still haven't red lined the RPMs!
I think I'm in love with this ride!
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