|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jan 11, 2016 22:12:14 GMT -5
I can only assume the reason my stock 150cc can reach 75+ is due to the oversized CVT components, and final drive gearing setup for 16" wheels. The Znen SSR 150T-18 lists at about $1500 depending upon where you purchase. Best money I've spent in years. I am at 5200 miles, and the only problem I've had was a busted front brake master cylinder it arrived with. I wholeheartedly recommend it for anyone trying to bridge that gap between local driving agility and short highway trips!
I also like the fact I get asked about it all the time in parking lots, and have been told by several people it's the best looking scooter they've seen, love riding off with a smile on my face from getting my ego stroked!
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jan 10, 2016 19:05:00 GMT -5
Very cool idea! There are several websites that will do the printing for you, since few of us have a 3d printer at this time.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jan 10, 2016 9:58:16 GMT -5
My daily commute includes a short 5 miles on the freeway. Most 150s have a hard time reaching 60mph, but the 16" model I ride has no problem keeping up with the slow lane traffic thanks to the over-sized CVT components and final gearing setup for the 16" wheels. If you can find a 14-16" model with EFI, you could keep up with all but the fastest traffic lanes.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jan 9, 2016 11:07:28 GMT -5
I think I understand now. What you are describing is improper use of an impact wrench, not damage due to choice of tools. Stripped threads can be caused by improper use of any tool, and I wholeheartedly agree that improper use of an impact wrench will do more damage faster. Thanks for the clarification! One thing I have noticed is that the drive face gears are very strong. When my impact broke last week, I tried using a monkey wrench to hold the drive face gear teeth. I didn't even scuff the gear teeth, but the monkey wrench got several scrapes as a result. I would definitely recommend the variator removal tool that screws into the CVT bolt holes with teeth aligned to the drive face gear teeth, they are cheap and easy to use. However, one still must use proper care to prevent stripping or cross-threading the crank end threads with any tool.  |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jan 9, 2016 10:25:56 GMT -5
You read on this and other boards of folks who went at it for a long time with an impact wrench and could not get the variator or clutch nut loose because of various reasons some even burning out the ones that run off battery power. This is not best practice and if a failure happens a few thousand miles later or more immediately most will just chalk it up to faulty engine parts, bad design, etc. Some instead of holding the variator will stuff items down the spark plug hole having the con rod and crank taking the full brunt of things. Yes you can many/some/a few times get the nuts off without damaging the crank and such but you won't always since you can also damage things and really won't know unless you pull things apart and do the forensics. Shop manuals tell you to use the proper tools and while some mechanics who have been trained otherwise will bend the rules and use impact wrenches on moving parts the only time you should really use an impact wrench on a moving part is with caution removing wheels from cars, trucks and trailers. Putting things on to moving parts with an impact wrench should be only to wheels using a torque limiter stick on the impact wrench however a set of those is relatively expensive and they can be inconsistent. I guess my search-fu is weak, I tried finding examples here of what you are saying, but I couldn't. I'll try searching other boards as well, maybe I'll get lucky. If you could point me to any example discussions, it would be appreciated. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jan 8, 2016 20:30:55 GMT -5
Excellent! Thanks for the trip down memory lane!
Note- I edited your link to remove the s from https, that prevented it from being viewable.
Note2- I don't ride scooters because they are less intimidating than motorcycles, in fact I like to leave motorcycles behind taking off from stop lights. Nothing like hearing the rapid shifting behind me as they try to catch up!
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jan 8, 2016 20:12:40 GMT -5
So they have the equipment to build the frames and bodies, no info listed about the engines. Interesting, I'll be watching!
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jan 8, 2016 20:08:21 GMT -5
Not to argue rockynv, but I'm confused at your concerns. The crankshaft and rod handle the force of thousands of explosions per minute, each of which is much more powerful than any impact wrench. I would be interested in reading some examples of people who have messed up their variator or crankshaft with an impact wrench, it could prove enlightening. Yes the crank and rod handle explosions but under constant pressure lubrication or splash lubrication that is renewed with every splash of the dipper in the oil pan which on a 4 stroke with dipper splash lubrication is twice before then next ignition pulse. The better splash systems use a paddle wheel that provides a more constant flow of lubrication. When using an impact wrench you squeeze the oil out of the crank and rod bearings after the first few moments and then start scuffing things. You can mute it by holding the variator from vibrating and transfering the impacts to the crank however a novice is not usually going to do that and just let it wail. Its not going to be a 100% failure rate and could be all over the scale depending on whose pulling the trigger on the impact wrench and the characteristics of the impact wrench itself. On a GY6 having more torque than in impact wrench I am not so sure of that. We are only talking about engine developing around 8 hp and a relatively few pounds of torque while my main impact wrench on the other hand creates around 650 pounds of torque with even the bargain units developing over 100 lbs to remove lug nuts. Better safe than sorry and use the correct tool for the job following established best practice. Thanks for the explanation. I have never rotated the crank more than a turn or two when using an impact wrench on the variator nut, it only takes a couple of whacks to tighten up, so i don't think lubrication is an issue. Perhaps I'm wrong, but I've been using it on two 50cc with BBKs for three years now, and my stock 150 for the past year, maybe I've just been lucky. If you happen to have a link to a discussion where someone did have issues, I would love to read more about it! |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jan 7, 2016 22:56:09 GMT -5
Not to argue rockynv, but I'm confused at your concerns. The crankshaft and rod handle the force of thousands of explosions per minute, each of which is much more powerful than any impact wrench. I would be interested in reading some examples of people who have messed up their variator or crankshaft with an impact wrench, it could prove enlightening. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jan 7, 2016 20:31:22 GMT -5
Since these little electric torque wrenches are so close to heaven-sent ..... and because even $24 for a new on right after XMAS might be a challenge ..... my torque wrench tried to bit the dust about 6 months ago also. It was just the cig. lighter plug=in plug. Snipped it off, attached a pair of alligator clips to clip to the battery, and it's been back in business since. Note also the plug-in plug has a fuse inside that might be the only problem. Unfortunately, mine won't spin anymore. I got three good years of use out of it, not bad for $24, i will definitely be getting a new one! |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jan 7, 2016 19:52:11 GMT -5
Yep ran a standard 250v 13a cartridge fuse for a few days worked fine. Got issues with it stalling out every time I decelerate or let it idle for a few seconds even with the idle screw quite high to the point of it spinning the wheel it will after a few seconds die out, I tried adjusting the fuel air screw. I'm guessing seeing as I replaced to stock air box that was stolen with a k&n air filter with plastic cover it may be getting too much air now. It would make sence as if I try to start it it really struggles but if I pump the throttle a few times to get some gas in first it fires up straight away but as soon as that extra gas is burnt it dies off within a few seconds again. I'm guessing I need a bigger idle jet if I'm to stick with the k&n filter? I think you're on the right track, upjetting should help. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jan 7, 2016 19:46:44 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jan 6, 2016 17:58:30 GMT -5
Additives are not a magic cure. What you need to do is tune your carb for the temp. Cold air means more oxygen, which means you need more fuel in the mix to compensate. There is a great tuning guide in the tips section here: itistheride.boards.net/thread/12/4ts-carb-tuning |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Jan 3, 2016 20:43:34 GMT -5
If you plan on selling it, you may be able to just replace the piston, rings, and gaskets. Once you have pulled the jug, check the cylinder walls, if they are not scratched by bad rings, you can just replace the piston and rings (maybe just the rings).
If there is significant scratches or grooves in the cylinder, then replace the jug and piston and rings.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Dec 22, 2015 14:14:05 GMT -5
|
|
