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Post by JerryScript on Dec 18, 2015 17:29:07 GMT -5
And that's why you up the final drive gears!
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 15, 2015 21:37:37 GMT -5
One more braking tip, do not use your front brakes in a turn, only the rear. It is easy to lock the front when turning and flip the ride, and using front brakes in a turn makes the steering squirrely and dangerous even if it doesn't lock up. In an emergency it's better to straighten the front wheel before hitting the front brake, then turn when slow enough.
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 15, 2015 3:18:07 GMT -5
High speed and torque eh, want a cherry on top of that too? j/k
You've got the torque in that baby, gear up and adjust weights after.
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 14, 2015 23:02:52 GMT -5
There are really only three things to take into consideration when discussing redlining, piston+crank mass vs alloy strength, bearing limits, and valve float. On a gy6, the main issue is valve float up to redline, then crank mass, then bearing limits. If you want a super gy6 to redline regularly, you will need to have stronger valve springs.
Engine age and normal usage also are important factors. An engine that is babied all the time will suffer most when redlined due to a lip that forms at the end of the piston ring travel. An engine that is redlined, or close to it, often will not have such a pronounced lip edge. This lip edge can break rings when pushed on a babied engine.
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 14, 2015 22:44:55 GMT -5
Keep it up Joey, love the way you explain and show each step. Thanks!
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 14, 2015 1:43:11 GMT -5
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 13, 2015 18:28:10 GMT -5
crank case pressure will push oil from the dipstick hole. Its 4 bolts on the4 valve cover , I would check the valves while I'm there. John Yep, the oil pump only pushes oil up to the rocker arms, you have to remove the valve cover to confirm it's pumping. |
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 8, 2015 11:14:39 GMT -5
Great job! Now you can enjoy the ride!
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 8, 2015 3:00:23 GMT -5
Take a screwdriver and place the handle against your ear, then put the tip on the engine. Move from point to point till you determine where the noise is coming from. Many mechanics have stethoscopes for this, but the old screwdriver trick works fine.
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 8, 2015 2:56:28 GMT -5
Take a pic of the left side of the scooter, we should be able to tell if it's a gy6.
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 7, 2015 16:55:07 GMT -5
On gy6 engines, the stamp is on the lower left front of the engine. Look just in front of the CVT.
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 5, 2015 10:18:18 GMT -5
The Curtis Mathes was a modular design, less solder points. The repairmen carried all modules with them, so most service calls we around 20 minutes, just figure out which module is bad and swap it out. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curtis_Mathes_Corporation |
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 4, 2015 22:39:31 GMT -5
Thanks for the research! Good to know.
In the future, a link will suffice. Copying & pasting entire articles is not acceptable (legally).
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 4, 2015 22:35:22 GMT -5
electrolytics and solder joints made by machine were the norm in TV repair prior to flat panel. John I still remember both our Curtis Mathis TVs with the 6 year warranty. Bought one to replace the other, and both died at 6 years 2 months. They knew the limits of the components back then, these days we push the limits and complain when we can't exceed them! |
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 4, 2015 0:25:56 GMT -5
The main issue on the boards is the capacitors. Cheap liquid capacitors have been the bane of PC motherboards for years, they actually boil over popping the top. Good soldering is the next most important thing, and that takes an experienced eye, or testing equipment to check.
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