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Post by onewheeldrive on Sept 9, 2015 17:24:08 GMT -5
I was born in 1980 so it was a great computer to grow up on. We had a couple shoeboxes full of games-- and about half of them were copied from the original floppy disk to a blank. I'm guessing everyone and their brother was copying each others games back then. We (my dad) bought at least one shoebox full off someone-- lot's of copied disks in it. That's also the reason many games had no instructions, since the floppy disks were "loose" copies. Pre-internet days, lol, when everyone had to figure out things on their own or someone they knew. Most games today don't have instruction booklets in the case. It's all in-game or online.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 25, 2015 23:30:14 GMT -5
Not going to post the pic of the extractor, it's not hard to visualize a broken tip (unless someone wants to see it).
Anyway, all I did was drill into the bolts and used the extractors to twist and break the heads off of each remaining bolt. I picked up some new hex bolts and washers to secure the fender to the new front fork.
Overall the ride is smoother for sure. I'm glad it's done and over with.
Now I just have to tackle the dash panels and one of the panels on the side of the floorboard. Fun fun fun!
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 25, 2015 23:22:31 GMT -5
In the 80's we had a computer game on the Commodore 64 called Spy Vs Spy. I never could figure that game out since we had no instructions.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 23, 2015 17:59:26 GMT -5
Just drilled them out. Glad thats over-- should've done that a few days ago. Lol.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 23, 2015 17:35:29 GMT -5
I just broke the tip off one of the bigger extractors trying to get one of the 4 bolts off. Here's a pic of it:
Ill post it later
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 22, 2015 20:44:06 GMT -5
Hopefully I'll have it all done tomorrow on my day off--- bolts out and forks on.
I'd rather be in the sun doing it than my clustered garage anyway.
Those phillip screw heads suck in that location. I knew they were going to be a pain. I'd have no problem getting them out with a socket if they were that style. Oh well. Lol.
I think I'll take the hex/washer route myself hillbillybob.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 20, 2015 23:58:23 GMT -5
To prevent this from happening to the new bolts, is using anti-sieze my best bet?
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 19, 2015 22:21:36 GMT -5
Thanks lain. I'll try those here in a bit. The head of these bolts are round and flat to begin with. I do have new forks.
I'll make sure I drill a better starter hole to do this next extraction attempt. I may just try and break the other three screw/bolt heads to release the fender, and just get new bolts. I don't care about the threads left in the fork holes because those forks are being replaced anyway-- I just don't have the bolts on hand and I doubt I will tomorrow unless I wake up early.
I just would rather get these out rather than break them so I can get this done and ride to work tomorrow-- safely. No big deal it would've been nice to get it done today and test out the new forks, but I can't always get what I want. Lol.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 19, 2015 20:59:13 GMT -5
I was in the process of removing my front fork today and of course there's always something. To do so I needed to get front nose fender off and I couldn't get any of the 4 bolts off securing the front nose fender to the fork.
Either I suck at using screw extractors or these bolts are in there and aren't going anywhere. Not surprised really as I don't recall ever removing either of the 4 in the 7+ years I've had this scoot, and since they aren't protected from the weather, well... there you have it. The metal is so soft on the bolt heads (phillips style). A bit rusty, too.
I guess I should try heating them? 1 is stripped and one is broken, haven't tried the other two yet. A bit worried about the plastics though-- the bolt(s) is literally surrounded by and on top of the plastic holding the fender down . I'll try again tonight, but not sure what else to do besides maybe take it to a shop to remove. I could also destroy the fender and order a new one and use new bolts on the new forks, but that doesn't seem very economical and I can't find a yellow one anyway.
Any thoughts?
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Forks too soft
by: onewheeldrive - Aug 18, 2015 22:46:34 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 18, 2015 22:46:34 GMT -5
I just got new front forks yesterday in the mail. After 50,300 chinometers my forks are horrible, plus the loose "dash" panels magnify the problem. Add that up along with 10 inch wheels and hitting any potholes or bumps is bad anymore.
I honestly can't remember how well the front forks worked during the first few years of my scoots life. I know they were never great, but they were better than they are now. I figured I'd buy a new set and see how it goes. I just never did any maintenance on them.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 17, 2015 23:28:16 GMT -5
Whatever you decide just make sure the bushing (or boss) you do use fits with no play between it and the variator, when inserted. It probably will fit, but these variators are not all the same and mixing parts from different variators isn't always compatible. I would at least double check before using to be extra safe.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 17, 2015 23:11:03 GMT -5
What kind of laws do the Asian countries have to be able to ride a scooter?
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 17, 2015 22:58:42 GMT -5
Well I received my new master cylinder today and surprisingly it has the front brake switch bolted on it already-- it didn't say in the description or show that in the pic. So now I have 3 brand new front brake switches! Lol.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 11, 2015 18:24:40 GMT -5
Here is what I mean. A little hard to see. If I push down on the backplate and pull the plate out, I can grind (barely) that little hump in the pic and this is with a "replacement set":  Now see in this pic I can't do that and it's easy to see the gap, and this is with the set of guides that came with the complete variator set--keep in mind these are older too so there should be more play, but they are fine just worn a bit:  Here are 3 DIFFERENT guides (from different sets). The one that came with the variator is the 1st in the pic. I can tell the differences between the 3 easily. They all 3 look different and fit different. One is just right (but worn a bit), one is really loose, and one is probably doable after re-checking.  |
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 11, 2015 18:08:03 GMT -5
I've theorized that they make v slides slightly different as some sets I buy are loose or hard to fit, or even after proper install make the backplate stick. Is the backplate you are using the same shape as the inside of the variator? Different variators have different shapes inside, you can't always use one backplate with a different variator, I had 2 variators become damaged by using slightly different shaped backplates, that look okay but if you move it around enough you hear and see the same spots you are talking about make contact with the variator inside. No, I don't swap anything with variators--- and I make sure of that. Everything came with the variator kit--- the variator, guides, rollers, boss, etc... and that's fine! Everything works together perfect, as that's not the issue at all. It's when you replace the guides that seems to bother me. Yeah I agree, I just got back in from checking everything again and 1 set of guides are so loose they barely stay on the backplate---THAT'S the set that causes the variator backplate to just BARELY (I mean barely) touch the variator. There is so much more back and forth play with the plate with that set. Like you said Lain, I've had guides that were so tight you could barely move the backplate. The other set might be ok though if you get them just right, but these will move to whatever position the variator takes them anyway. I can't check my 3rd set because 1 of the 3 came broken in the mail awhile back. I mean I'm talking just BARELY touching metal to metal here, but still. I don't want to throw money out the window if I don't have to. |
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