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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 11, 2015 16:54:02 GMT -5
I would like to see detailed pictures of what your talking about. I would not like to sell a variator if it has the same problem you describe. John To be safe, I think parts sites should maybe take a look at differences between the replacement "v" guides and the "v" guides that are included in a complete variator set to see if they match up---- maybe there are 2 SLIGHTLY different styles out there floating around the scene, lol. You have to take a look at how the back plate sets when it's in the variator, after putting the guides on to see the difference. The other difference is in the "v" guides shape themselves. I'll post pics soon! |
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 11, 2015 16:37:54 GMT -5
The other day I changed my belt and like always I checked the variator. I checked the 3 "v" guides that go on the back plate--- they looked worn but not cracked yet but I decided to replace them anyway. No big deal I have 3 sets of them (well 2 and 2/3).
Well I put the new ones on and the problem isn't that they are hard to go on or anything like that. I know some guides slide on easier than others but that's not the issue. The issue is that when I put the new ones on the back plate and put the variator together--- I see and hear metal contact, not where the guides are but the holes (3 half ovals) in between each guide on the back plate--- that area of the back plate touches the variator humps. That does not happen with the old guides. THEY ARE DIFFERENT. I tried 2 of the 3 sets I have and they both touch metal to metal, just barely.
The stock variator I have, I bought as a replacement and included rollers and the guides--- the works. From the same place I also ordered an extra set of "v"guides with the same order, and they don't match come to find out.
The 3rd set I have (2 out of 3) is from a different parts dealer. I'm certain just by looking at them that they won't work either but I will give them a try just to see.
I will post pics showing the "v" guide differences and how the variator back plate sets into the variator with the different "v" guide sets.
Not sure if the part sites are aware of this or not. The other problem is I may have to order a new variator, but will ANY of the replacement guides fit is the question, lol. I'm a bit frustrated right now. Not sure what else to do because I don't want to order another set and wait a few days only to find out they don't fit right. I'm not taking the chance with the "v" guides I do have and destroying my variator. I could try explaining it to 2 parts dealers in particular but I'm not sure if that'll solve anything anytime soon.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 9, 2015 12:43:08 GMT -5
I was on my way to work yesterday, and something caught my eye as I passed by the gas station. Some guy was at the gas pump, pumping gas into his scooter (Zuma). The guy had about a 4ft tall round metal cylinder (grated) container mounted somehow behind his luggage rack holding a set of GOLF CLUBS-- bag and all! Hahaha, that's actually a pretty cool idea to be honest. Man I wish I got a pic of that!! Never saw anything like that before.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 7, 2015 22:54:42 GMT -5
On a side note, there is nothing stopping any of us (besides maybe lack of tools or health) from buying a magnet and doing it ourselves. I saw this vid a few weeks or so ago, and it's by 90GTVERT using the side drain bolt.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 7, 2015 22:47:46 GMT -5
Here is a video I found on the Prima Magnetic Drain Plugs, and unless they manufacture them differently it shows how it should be:
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 7, 2015 22:31:15 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies, I'll give it a look. I have to replace the master cylinder soon due to a small leak while I'm at it. Not sure why I thought that clicking sound might be from the master cylinder, lol.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 7, 2015 22:15:16 GMT -5
It would make sense for every state to have a law pertaining to traffic lights not changing. Is there a state that doesn't??
There are only a couple around town that don't change for me and that's only an issue late at night when no traffic is out to change the light for me. What annoys me is at that same light(s) is when the one-and-only oncoming car at the light gets in the turn lane instead because that doesn't change my side at all--- it just gives them the arrow when the light finally turns and the other lanes on that side the green light.
With that being said, I'll run those lights if they don't turn once whatever traffic there is gets out of the way.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 6, 2015 21:10:09 GMT -5
If you grab the wheel and rapidly move it back and forth, you'll hear a thud every direction change. There's a bit of play. Any other "thuds" aren't normal.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 6, 2015 20:38:52 GMT -5
What part does the clicking sound come from when squeezing the front brake lever. Is it from the master cylinder? Something is broken in there because I haven't heard it click for awhile and my brake light doesn't work using the front brake.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 6, 2015 17:33:27 GMT -5
I had one of those kits (for a 50cc) about 5 years ago but I can't remember if I have it still or how the magnet sat in mine.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 5, 2015 20:58:14 GMT -5
Oh yeah another thing I need to tackle quickly, is that the little plastic piece that the tailight bulb and socket fits into that holds the bulb/socket in place is jacked up because the bulb/socket will hang out after a big bump/pothole causing a "no tailight issue", and sometimes other bulbs will go out along with it until I reposition the bulb/socket.
I know scrappy sells the handsomeboy tail light assembly, but I need to ask them if the little black piece that holds the bulb/socket in place is included or not. Not sure how else to keep it in place.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 5, 2015 20:47:18 GMT -5
I have about 4 or 5 broken screw slots and probably 2-3 broken tabs on my scooter's body. Also, some plastic for the tailight assembly broke to where it will hang down a bit. Wear and tear. The right hand guard fell off because the part of the "dash" that it attaches to broke in that area, most likely from a small leak of brake fluid from the master cylinder. The front panel near the headlights has a crack in it somehow.
Most likely I'll just replace the master cylinder and the front dash-- only about $50 for that little panel, lol. I know that a couple of the screw slots inside the dash are stripped/broke so that needs fixed or I may face the same problem(s).
Thinking about replacing the front "shocks" because when I hit bumps/potholes anymore it sucks. Any jolts from bumps/potholes are just magnifying body panel issues, imo.
After nearly 49,800 chinometers, my scooter needs some TLC.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 4, 2015 23:20:14 GMT -5
Is scrappy the originator of naming the different body styles that? I know it was the first parts site that I saw those terms, awhile back.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 2, 2015 3:03:09 GMT -5
Yeah, a lot of us with 150cc ChinaScoots have just taken the kickstart out. Seems almost impossible to get them working properly; not worth the effort. Just charge the battery and forget that thing they laughingly call a kick-STARTER. The only thing it will start is your blood pressure. NOTE: Be gentle when charging. The spec is for 2 amps charging current; I think 4 amps is fine with these glorified D-call batteries. But most car chargers have MUCH higher charging rates, and that will severely decrease the lifespan of the battery Do they really suck that much? I've only tried mine a few times and it was really easy to start, do they just fall apart after too much use? Its good enough for an emergency I guess Lol, maybe they designed it like snit expecting you to only use it once in a blue moon Not sure about the reliability with the bigger engine kick-start setups, but for my original 50cc engine I kick-started it for almost a year and a half straight of heavy usuage. I bet I kicked it 700-1000+ times in that period. Somewhere along the latter half of that period, a spline on the kick-start idle gear developed a chip in it causing the lever to lock-up at a certain point when depressed. A simple and cheap replacement. I've read a few cases over the years to where some have broken the assembly/case(?) when kick-starting. All I can say is that I beat it up, and had "rage" kick-started that thing several times (think valves), so I got my moneys worth out of it. Like I said though, not sure about the 125cc+ setups, but I have no intention to ever remove mine. |
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jul 28, 2015 4:13:59 GMT -5
Improper air/fuel mix (jetting/leaks), bad timing, and poor compression are causes of that. A trashed variator would probably be similar in an extreme case. Not sure if it would run like that with the rollers improperly placed.
If it was me and I was stumped: I'd check the timing, variator, maybe throw a stock airbox on to see if it runs better. Maybe inspect the carb. I tend to do everything ( not replace everything of course, lol) if I'm not sure, and that's limited by whatever tools you have or parts (jets, comp gauge) on hand.
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