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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 1, 2013 21:14:17 GMT -5
and this still illudes me bc when i first ran it with proper tunning and i checked the plug it was basically pure white had a tiny tinge of gray to it which on all the pics i have seen of plugs tells me its lean. and i got the popping to stop my exhaust bolt came loose and was getting an exhaust leak. but the studder still remains at 35 everytime
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 1, 2013 21:06:56 GMT -5
Sounds like your gonna have to play with it for a while,,its being a little stubborn. If it where mine,, I would set it like you did when it popped,,and just upjet a few sizes,,that should straighten you right out.  this is whats confusing me atfirst you say my setup is too big then you change your post and say that i need to upjet then i get other people saying my setup is too big. WHICH IS IT? |
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 1, 2013 20:45:26 GMT -5
ok so just went over all the wiring and one of the coil wires was loose but its still doing at 35 religiously everytime i hit 35 it stutters. does this mean the engine is getting too much gas? and i will be buying about 2-3 spark plugs tomorrow so we can really see whats going on in there
so should i just go back to stock carb and put bigger jets in it?
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 1, 2013 19:59:31 GMT -5
will get right on that and report back.
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 1, 2013 17:45:51 GMT -5
you know i did have to manually cut my intake gasket to size. the edges where a little rugged but i tried my best to smooth them out without comprimising the gasket. it has a fuel pump on it my gas tank is below my feet. i do have my starter wiring unplugged and wrapped up to my frame. i have the electrical connection wrapped in the rubber boot tho. i am completely unfamaliar with the coil so ill go over it and check for any loose connections.
thanks for the tips
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 1, 2013 17:02:58 GMT -5
well the first one you have linked has the studs which is what you really need and it also comes with the nut caps and the new exhaust gasket.
the second linked one does not come with the studs which means youll have to get the studs somewhere else.
so to me the best one would be the first one you have linked.
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 1, 2013 16:55:47 GMT -5
be careful this video is loud.
ok well since there isnt much more i can do excpet play around with it given the information i provided and you can see my setup in my signature plus the video you just listened to should i up or down jet? or should i just buy a range of lower and higher jets and figure it out?
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CVT Noise
by: newbscootdude - Aug 1, 2013 13:03:15 GMT -5
Post by newbscootdude on Aug 1, 2013 13:03:15 GMT -5
i had something similiar happen to me not to long ago. what happened was one of the guides on my variator face plate came off. i only noticed the vibrations at low rpms or while in a turn. something easy to check before you replace it if you want.
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Post by newbscootdude on Aug 1, 2013 12:56:21 GMT -5
no one?  |
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Post by newbscootdude on Jul 31, 2013 20:30:14 GMT -5
any other suggestions?  |
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Post by newbscootdude on Jul 31, 2013 20:21:56 GMT -5
ya thats what i did at first and was getting all this poping and backfiring which is the main reason im confused.
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Post by newbscootdude on Jul 31, 2013 20:15:04 GMT -5
sometimes the f/a screws vibrate loose and open up. something easy to check before you take the carb apart.
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Post by newbscootdude on Jul 31, 2013 19:54:27 GMT -5
ok so the first thing i did was max my f/a, actually had to lean it out a little from factory. now my question here is bc i had to lean it to get proper f/a does that mean that my jets are already to big or is it the other way around? anyways i took it for a short little ride and my scoot was poping and backfiring pretty bad and my plug looked like it was running really lean so i started opening the f/a as soon as i did the idle rpm dropped so i uped the idle screw allowing it to idle but not stall on me. i did this a couple times until i no longer heard the poping and backfires when i let off throttle. well now once i hit 35 the bike sputters and looses a lot of power just like its running rich and when i checked the plug again its running way to rich and i only opened the f/a up by about 2 full turns before it stopped poping and backfiring. so my question is do i need to upjet or down jet to achieve proper tuning here? and then i had a question about the main jets im looking to get. ive noticed that most of the main jets on ebay say either 5mm, cvk, or kenhin, or a mixture of 4-6mm with any one of those names. scrappy says my carb is a runtong, but it has K N the standard of japan stamped into the side of it which ive heard to be kenhin carbs. so how do i know which mm size jet to get and what brand? Would it be easiest to take my carb apart and just measure what ive got in there? this still leaves me with the question about the brands tho? does it really matter what brand i get or is it just certain brands are "better" than others just like everything else? Oh and when i mention the mm size of the jet i dont mean like 105, 110, 115 which is the jet size, i mean the width of the threaded part of the jet such as the measurement all the way to the left on this pic m259.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/turbostang331/MikuniVM1122.jpg.html?o=268 |
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Post by newbscootdude on Jul 31, 2013 13:14:12 GMT -5
transcending twilight
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Post by newbscootdude on Jul 31, 2013 13:10:00 GMT -5
ya now getting the right length is gonna be the tricky part napa will have the metric threads but chances are they wont have the exact length youll need so you may have to cut one down to size. they should be able to do it for you and taper the ends. the guys at my napa know me pretty well so they had no problems doing that for me, but whats the worst that happens they say no right?
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(need 112)