|
|
Post by pmatulew on Nov 1, 2013 5:27:30 GMT -5
A chemist will tell you that mixing is a bad idea. Sometimes the additives in the different recipes don't play nice together and you may end up with a gooey mess.
I put heavy oil in a sport bike engine one time and it did not like it at all. The close tolerances in the engine were struggling against the oil and it ran really poorly. No choice but to drain it and start over.
If I could afford a GTS, (I wish!), it would be a no brainer to spend another $20 to replace the oil and the filter with the correct flavor.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Oct 31, 2013 7:04:22 GMT -5
I did a quick search for that brand and came up empty. Like most chinese clones it might be easier to figure out what your machine is a clone of, and then find a manual that applies to that.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Oct 30, 2013 17:36:16 GMT -5
Maybe it was over-torqued. Maybe someone used thread lock. You could try heating the nut a bit. Could also let it soak in penetrating oil. If it's really stuck that bad to the point that you bent the rim, then it may be time to resort to more destructive tactics.
If it were me and I was that desperate, I would carefully grind off one or both sides of the nut and then give it a good smack with a cold chisel and hammer. You would have to replace the nut, but if it's a parts machine anyway then that's not an issue.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Oct 29, 2013 17:13:00 GMT -5
No pictures. Just empty boxes.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Oct 29, 2013 17:02:58 GMT -5
There! Fixed it so the pictures show up.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Oct 29, 2013 12:41:10 GMT -5
At the 1000 mile mark after the top end rebuild I decided it was time to check the valves. As an academic excercise I wanted to see how little I could take apart to get it done. Turns out it was easier than I expected. Remove the seat bucket. Remove the center panel. Remove the fuel inlet filler piece and then there was enough space to do what needed to be done. Turns out the exhaust valve was good but the intake valve was tight. All better now. Tonight before I put it back together I'm going to rig up a filter in the crankcase vent line. I'm tired of having the airbox drip oil that should be in the catch tube.     |
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Oct 26, 2013 22:17:09 GMT -5
You could always measure to confirm how much difference there is between two?
Whenever I have an old or stubborn rubber fitting that just wont go, I break out the electric heat gun to warm up and soften the rubber a bit. Saves a lot of struggling and cursing.
There should not be a lot of resistance to turning the real wheel. As in you should be able to twirl the clutch bell with one finger. If it's really binding you should investigate further.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Oct 25, 2013 12:19:57 GMT -5
I put my new 12 gram sliders on my 150cc this morning and I'm quite pleased with the results! The scoot came to me with generic orange 14 gram sliders. Besides that fact that they were worn abnormally from me installing them wrong, I think they were just too heavy for the torque spring. Once the variator spun up to high gear it never felt like it was shifting back down under load. Now with the new lighter DR Pulley sliders, (which are supposed to be more slippery), I can definitely tell that the system is "downshifting" when I roll on the throttle or start chugging up a hill. The system seems to be more balanced. (Teeter-totter technology, Light spring = light weights, heavier spring = heavier weights) RPM's are up almost 1000 from where they were.The balance point now hovers around 6000. The engine is breathing easier and seems much happier there. It's not quite a quick off the line as I might like, but on this mornings test run, on a downhill I buried the speedo well over 70. Never done that before! I'm styling now!  Bop bop bop bop, Bird bird bird, Bird is the word, Bop bop bop..... (earworm, sorry) |
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Oct 25, 2013 11:53:51 GMT -5
Oh, well. I guess it's just too much to hope for that everyone can just get along.
Contentious forums tend to be a self cleaning ovens anyway. Those that come just to complain soon find themselves talking to the wind...
Keep up the good work JR.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Oct 25, 2013 7:58:32 GMT -5
I haven't been hanging around here all that long, so please forgive my ignorance if this question seems inappropriate.
It seems that there used to one recently deceased, but very active forum that was a tremendous repository of knowledge.
Now there are 3 or 4 very similar new forums. Each with a limited amount of activity. And since there isn't enough traffic happening on any one of them, I'm seeing the same names appear on all of them. Many of the requests for assistance are cross-posted on at least two.
Wouldn't it be simpler and more efficient to have just one place for everyone to go? Or are there too many lingering personality conflicts for this to be feasible?
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Oct 22, 2013 18:11:46 GMT -5
Heavier weights will put it in higher gear sooner and longer. Running it hard and way below the power band, (lugging the engine), it may have overheated, or loaded up and fouled the plug, (rich). Either way just stamping it's feet and telling you it didn't like it.
Sounds like you found the right weights. Ride happy.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Oct 22, 2013 18:03:43 GMT -5
I must have missed something?  This thread started out as "we need a small scoot to save money" and in three pages turned in to "I'm going to get the fastest thing that falls under the legal limit and then mod the heck out of it so it performs like a bigger machine" Someone I used to know called that "stepping over a dollar to pick up a dime". Just saying.... |
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Oct 22, 2013 17:52:41 GMT -5
Don't let Scootnwinn's strong opinions bother you. He's like that with everybody. I even agree with what he says sometimes.
Your dealings with this particular shop are water under the bridge. You gave the mechanic a second chance and he either couldn't or wouldn't make it right. I wouldn't trust him to operate a light switch at this point. His reputation has gone down in flames and I'm sure you'll let everyone in the area know about it. In no time at all he'll be out of business and can go back to whatever it was he was doing last week. (Sidewalk sandwich board? Bagging groceries?)
Time to get on with fixing the brakes and scrubbing in those new tires.
Sailracer may be on to something in that disconnecting the brake line may have been the expedient way to remove the swing arm. Maybe the lines just need to be bled properly.
Not sure about the front. I don't have to touch the front calipers. The wheel just slides right out.
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Oct 22, 2013 5:45:24 GMT -5
The diagram is hard to go by because they used a relatively square slider as an example. I've put mine in three different ways.
Long side up/angle down and out = low rpm's, very poor performance
Long side down/angle up and out = high rpm, good performance but no top speed
Long side to the center/angle up and out = this is the correct way. standing up straight. lower lows and higher highs.
Unfortunately my sliders have now suffered abnormal wear and one or two of them keep "sliding down in the chair". Once they are cocked backwards the variator is kind of stuck in high gear and I have great difficulty pulling away from a stop. Also it's way off balance.
New sliders are in the mail...
|
|
|
|
Post by pmatulew on Oct 21, 2013 17:28:04 GMT -5
Impact wrench? Or stick your spanner tool in the holes of the clutch bell to hold it.
What is spinning? The clutch bell should be hard geared to the rear wheel. If you've jammed the wheel then the clutch bell shouldn't move. It's kind of hard on the gearbox to do it that way though,
|
|
