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Post by pmatulew on Oct 21, 2013 17:20:59 GMT -5
Really scary what passes for "professional" these days.
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Post by pmatulew on Oct 20, 2013 21:25:10 GMT -5
Upgrading the battery will help the starting problem.
Now we can move on to the quitting problem.
When you did the 80cc upgrade did you also put in a larger main jet in the carburetor?
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Post by pmatulew on Oct 20, 2013 11:59:34 GMT -5
I'm in with the second camp in that I don't believe that you'll be happy with a smaller machine.
It's a very personal and subjective decision though and the only way to know if it will work for you is to get one a try it. You'd probably be way ahead of the game if you could beg, borrow, or rent an under 50 and ride it around for an afternoon. Run it round in the terrain and the traffic you expect to normally travel in. Have the second person jump on and then see what you think.
You have the luxury of being in a metropolitan area with an active scooter community. You might as well make use of the options you have. The yellow pages might be your friend in this situation.
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Post by pmatulew on Oct 20, 2013 6:29:25 GMT -5
If you temporarily disconnect your audio modifications and then make sure your existing battery is fully charged how does the engine behave?
Have you made any other modifications to the original set-up?
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Post by pmatulew on Oct 19, 2013 7:18:07 GMT -5
How many miles do you have on it and have you adjusted the valves lately?
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Post by pmatulew on Oct 19, 2013 7:15:01 GMT -5
On the older two-stroke minarelli Eton's there was a wire on the CDI to clip. The CDI is a purple-ish or orange-ish box a little bigger than a pack of playing cards attached to the right hip of the frame. If you slip the CDI out of the rubber holder and look at the bottom side there is a wire that appears and disappears out of the black resin. I can't remember if it was pink or green. Just clip it and tape off the ends.
I think there was also a restricter ring welded inside the header pipe. You'll want to dremel that out as well. And then re-tune the mixture to suit.
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Post by pmatulew on Oct 18, 2013 7:19:56 GMT -5
So I'm running the original 835-20-30 Bando belt in my 150 with only around 2000 miles on the clock. How do I know when it's time to change the belt?
The actual width measurement is closer to 18mm. Obviously it's going to ride a little lower in the pulleys and maybe with a little less tension. But it doesn't feel like it's slipping.
On the other hand I'm getting a pulsing vibration while moving. Not sure where that's coming from.
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Post by pmatulew on Oct 18, 2013 6:57:40 GMT -5
May be electrical. May be fuel delivery. Need more symptoms to narrow down the issue.
What condition is it in after it quits? Are the lights still on? Does it crank? Do you still have spark? Will it start if you give it a squirt of gas or starter fluid?
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Post by pmatulew on Oct 17, 2013 17:02:07 GMT -5
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Post by pmatulew on Oct 17, 2013 5:21:56 GMT -5
The flywheel is a big magnet so the bolt may stick at least part of the time. But your charging system and pick up coil are hiding underneath and they won't respond well to twirling metal bits. You need to get it out of there.  |
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Post by pmatulew on Oct 16, 2013 17:33:00 GMT -5
Honestly, even with the wheels already off the bike, without the correct tools, changing tires is a pain in the behind. I bought a bead breaker, and a set of tire irons, and built my own rim clamp and you know what? It's still a pain in the behind.  If you've got someone locally that will swap them for what you consider a reasonable price. Just let them do it. If not, then you'll have to muster up some genuine determination. |
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Post by pmatulew on Oct 16, 2013 17:19:20 GMT -5
Looks like a Minarelli. The design has been around forever. Parts are easy to come by. Also looks very dry dry rusty dry. How long since it has been run? Was the motor sealed up when you got it? Or was the head already off? 2-strokes are dry sump. If they are left open for an extended period the crank bearings dry out and rust quickly. May also be the one way starter clutch. The little roller bearings in it may have set up. I'd continue to pull off all the external accessories until you're down to just the crank and then see where you stand. I rebuilt two and other than a standard flywheel puller the only special tool I needed was to push the crank out of the case and I was able to rent a tool at the local rental place. here is another motor manual--> dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6396327/50cc%20Motor%20Manual.pdf |
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Post by pmatulew on Oct 16, 2013 16:58:10 GMT -5
Seriously?! Was there any piston left? I feel fortunate now that the fixer upper I bought only needed a top end.
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Post by pmatulew on Oct 16, 2013 5:30:53 GMT -5
Excellent! Carry on.
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Post by pmatulew on Oct 15, 2013 11:32:09 GMT -5
That's probably the most important and most highly stressed joint in the whole chassis. Be very careful how you attempt repairs.
Maybe less risky to try tweaking near the center of the downtube rather than up near the head joint.
If anything doesn't go right or there is any shadow of a doubt, abort and take it to a metal fabricator for assistance. The last thing you want to worry about is having that front end come apart at an inopportune moment.
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