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Post by geh3333 on Feb 16, 2015 23:42:34 GMT -5
Thanks , Tunning the CVT is pretty easy to get the hang of . I like to be able to get the most out of my scoot without putting too much strain on the engine. |
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Post by alleyoop on Feb 16, 2015 23:50:53 GMT -5
Thanks , Tunning the CVT is pretty easy to get the hang of . I like to be able to get the most out of my scoot without putting too much strain on the engine. Yes CVTs are a piece of cake, you should help RCQ get his in order though. |
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 17, 2015 0:06:47 GMT -5
Thanks , Tunning the CVT is pretty easy to get the hang of . I like to be able to get the most out of my scoot without putting too much strain on the engine. Yes CVTs are a piece of cake, you should help RCQ get his in order though. For him to get the most out of his scoot , he should get a different variator . I'll let him know how the koso from john turns out. After that he needs to get the clutch in order . I offered him my old ncy 2000 main . it may give him that little extra on takeoff and mid without any top end suffering. It actually seemed to help my top end slightly. It will be nice to see his scoot running tip top . |
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Post by stevo684 on Feb 17, 2015 0:27:15 GMT -5
I did not change the jet for the carb. But I did install a racing cdi in there as well. I am told that it takes out the restrictor for the rpm. Could that have been the problem?
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 17, 2015 8:03:46 GMT -5
I did not change the jet for the carb. But I did install a racing cdi in there as well. I am told that it takes out the restrictor for the rpm. Could that have been the problem? Very doubtful it was the cdi. Even if it is a non restrictive cdi ,you are still in control of how high you run the rpms up. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 17, 2015 18:13:55 GMT -5
Yes CVTs are a piece of cake, you should help RCQ get his in order though. For him to get the most out of his scoot , he should get a different variator . I'll let him know how the koso from john turns out. After that he needs to get the clutch in order . I offered him my old ncy 2000 main . it may give him that little extra on takeoff and mid without any top end suffering. It actually seemed to help my top end slightly. It will be nice to see his scoot running tip top . Think maybe you missed the sarcasm. Or I'm just getting cynical. Anyway.... Pissed. The Dr. Pulley variator (which cost $  , BTW) came with 3 boss spacers (which would separate the inner and outer faces, so the belt rides lower in the variator). I used ZERO of them cause I thought I wanted more top end. But with the barn door of a windshield it gets pretty tough for the engine to drive the scooter over 55 or 60mph. Downhill, OK. But on a flat straight - no way. And with a headwind --- eh So, anyway, I don't hold much hope of getting to the kind of top end speeds you can get to, and am more interested in understanding why the rpms top out at 7,200 with such light (9gr) sliders. Thought I'd put in a spacer or 2 and see if that scooted the rpms up a bit. Damn me. Can't find them; seems I've tossed 'em (or they are buried somewhere). So will have to wait till it's finally time to toss this variator. btw: I asked John about upgearing and your advice. His response was that he was not sure what gears were in the thing now (OEM) and so it would be difficult to help. R U sure all GY6 scoots come with the same standard gears? |
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 17, 2015 19:08:16 GMT -5
For him to get the most out of his scoot , he should get a different variator . I'll let him know how the koso from john turns out. After that he needs to get the clutch in order . I offered him my old ncy 2000 main . it may give him that little extra on takeoff and mid without any top end suffering. It actually seemed to help my top end slightly. It will be nice to see his scoot running tip top . Think maybe you missed the sarcasm. Or I'm just getting cynical. Anyway.... Pissed. The Dr. Pulley variator (which cost $ , BTW) came with 3 boss spacers (which would separate the inner and outer faces, so the belt rides lower in the variator). I used ZERO of them cause I thought I wanted more top end. But with the barn door of a windshield it gets pretty tough for the engine to drive the scooter over 55 or 60mph. Downhill, OK. But on a flat straight - no way. And with a headwind --- eh So, anyway, I don't hold much hope of getting to the kind of top end speeds you can get to, and am more interested in understanding why the rpms top out at 7,200 with such light (9gr) sliders. Thought I'd put in a spacer or 2 and see if that scooted the rpms up a bit. Damn me. Can't find them; seems I've tossed 'em (or they are buried somewhere). So will have to wait till it's finally time to toss this variator. btw: I asked John about upgearing and your advice. His response was that he was not sure what gears were in the thing now (OEM) and so it would be difficult to help. R U sure all GY6 scoots come with the same standard gears? I forget what mine came with,think 13/40?? but I got the same ones alley got 16/37 and man they are perfect,,my stock motor even had enough power to push them before BBK...they are a little harder on the clutch so I got an NCY 3rd gen.with bell to do soon as it warms up a bit,,I might just beat on my stock clutch for a while and see how much it can take first...lol..16/37 way to go man,,i got a press here if you ship me the gears I will press them for you no charge,,just the ride. |
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 17, 2015 20:56:01 GMT -5
For him to get the most out of his scoot , he should get a different variator . I'll let him know how the koso from john turns out. After that he needs to get the clutch in order . I offered him my old ncy 2000 main . it may give him that little extra on takeoff and mid without any top end suffering. It actually seemed to help my top end slightly. It will be nice to see his scoot running tip top . Think maybe you missed the sarcasm. Or I'm just getting cynical. Anyway.... Pissed. The Dr. Pulley variator (which cost $ , BTW) came with 3 boss spacers (which would separate the inner and outer faces, so the belt rides lower in the variator). I used ZERO of them cause I thought I wanted more top end. But with the barn door of a windshield it gets pretty tough for the engine to drive the scooter over 55 or 60mph. Downhill, OK. But on a flat straight - no way. And with a headwind --- eh So, anyway, I don't hold much hope of getting to the kind of top end speeds you can get to, and am more interested in understanding why the rpms top out at 7,200 with such light (9gr) sliders. Thought I'd put in a spacer or 2 and see if that scooted the rpms up a bit. Damn me. Can't find them; seems I've tossed 'em (or they are buried somewhere). So will have to wait till it's finally time to toss this variator. btw: I asked John about upgearing and your advice. His response was that he was not sure what gears were in the thing now (OEM) and so it would be difficult to help. R U sure all GY6 scoots come with the same standard gears? I caught it , I'm just don't want to mess another thread up . but yeah I'm pretty sure most are 13:40 stock . |
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Post by sasquach on Feb 18, 2015 19:01:13 GMT -5
New bbk will use oil for a while during breakin , also pull head to see if valve contacted piston causing failure of rod/crank as in chain may have jumped? Put about a dozen 72cc qmb kits none ever failed , did require upping main jet. & they used oil like crazy for 5-10 miles. Really need to monitor oil level untill break in occours ,hard starting = possible low/ no oil?
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Post by stevo684 on Feb 19, 2015 15:36:50 GMT -5
New bbk will use oil for a while during breakin , also pull head to see if valve contacted piston causing failure of rod/crank as in chain may have jumped? Put about a dozen 72cc qmb kits none ever failed , did require upping main jet. & they used oil like crazy for 5-10 miles. Really need to monitor oil level untill break in occours ,hard starting = possible low/ no oil? So I got some kits in from the factory. When I put it in does that mean that the customer has to really check his oil level's day in and out. What about WOT. Is there like a do and do not do. During the break in period. And after the break in period will it be okay to do a WOT as much as he wants. I dont want a customer to blow up another engine. Thanks. |
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Post by JerryScript on Feb 19, 2015 21:44:20 GMT -5
It may burn a bit of oil during break in, but it should not be a significant amount, and it should be checked often. Your customers are most likely not mechanics themselves, and checking the oil is the easiest and best thing for a non-mechanic to do during break-in. Give them written instructions telling them to check before every ride (CYA, even if they won't), and to check for oil level, color, and smell, with descriptions letting them know when it is indicating they should call you.
Break in periods should not hit WOT much if at all. The most important thing is to not go a single speed, which risks the rings setting in a bad position. You want up and down RPMs as much as possible during break-ing, and driving through neighborhoods is a great way to do it. The stop and start without opening it all the way up is perfect for getting the rings set well. CYA: tell them not to go WOT till they have 250 miles on it and a fresh oil change with no issues indicated.
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Post by xyshannen on Feb 19, 2015 21:54:37 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure your problem with the engine stems from it running lean. Going to an advanced timing CDI alone in some cases can require an up jet in the carb. Add a BBK to the mix and yeah you were definitely running lean. The oil may have played it's part as well. No your client doesn't need to check his oil every day. The first oil change should be made after the initial break in period (about 50 or so miles). This first oil change is pretty critical as your oil will be full of all kinds of metal shavings and particulates too small too see. Remember these engines don't really have an oi filter. If the engine runs too long with with the initial break in oil you can cause serious damage.
As for break in methods.....well there really isn't one best way. The main idea is to let the engine run but not at one steady RPM for too long and to keep WOT down to a minimum. Most do break their engines in by actually riding their scoots. But I like to do an on-the-stand type of break in and for you this may be your best bet. Doing this before handing over the new scoot to a customer who may or my not have a clue about the workings of an ICE will help save you a ton of headache and doesn't really cost you much but time.
Put the scooter up on it's center stand, point a fan at the engine cooling fan and start the scoot. Let it run until the enricher on the carb turns off and your RPMS settle down. Then adjust the idle screw to turn the idle up to 3k-3500. Now just sit there and let it run. In a few minutes you should hear the RPMs increasing as the rings on the piston seat to the cylinder jug. once the RPMS stop going up, readjust the idle back down to about 3k. Then over the course of an hour sit with it wile it runs..from time to time blip the throttle to bring the RPMS up to about 55k. After this hour long break in, the engine is pretty much good to go. Just make sure to change the oil before handing the scoot back. They still don't want to run it WOT for more than short bursts, but after a couple hundred miles they should have zero breakin issues.
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Post by sasquach on Feb 20, 2015 7:16:30 GMT -5
Maybe best thing is not to offer service to people if your not an experienced mechanic?
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Post by JoeyBee on Feb 20, 2015 9:42:31 GMT -5
Maybe best thing is not to offer service to people if your not an experienced mechanic? I support stevo684. First he opened the only shop on the island. That takes guts right there. And we need more scooter shop, not less. I have one in my town and they have a scooter listed on CL stating it doesn't run and don't know why. That says it all about them. And maybe it's his first BBK. We all need to learn. |
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Post by mopojo on Feb 21, 2015 8:52:13 GMT -5
Concur with above. At OP: When you installed the BBK, was there any silicone or other sealant(s) used? Reason why I ask is because I just installed a 72cc BBK on a rescue moped w/5000 mi. When I removed original jug I noticed that whoever had worked on it before had used a sealer about the gaskets (which is another issue in itself) and when torqued down had oozed into the oil path; thereby stopping the flow of oil completely. When I pulled the wrist-pin from the piston, it had some.... Well, here's a pic (been enhaced to show stuff) The main blockage was in the engine case itself = DANGER....BOOM! LOL  |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
, BTW) came with 3 boss spacers (which would separate the inner and outer faces, so the belt rides lower in the variator). I used ZERO of them cause I thought I wanted more top end. But with the barn door of a windshield it gets pretty tough for the engine to drive the scooter over 55 or 60mph. Downhill, OK. But on a flat straight - no way. And with a headwind --- eh
