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Post by millsc on Aug 31, 2014 17:06:44 GMT -5
Get a new regulator for your charging issue the big bore kit needs more fuel and air after you rejet and put the New filter on it will snap to life, unless your off on the cam timing.
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Post by blacraven on Aug 31, 2014 19:20:16 GMT -5
Get a new regulator for your charging issue the big bore kit needs more fuel and air after you rejet and put the New filter on it will snap to life, unless your off on the cam timing. Thanks, i'll order a new regulator tonight. As far as the re-jet, I put the #  main jet that came with the bbk in. Do I need bigger? I believe my timing is correct, although the new cam didn't really show a top marker for which way was up. Aside from the two side holes on it, there was some writing on one side and multiple holes on the other side, unlike my old cam which only had one hole on the top. What I did was check how the old cam was sitting at top dead center and observe the shaft and which way the gear things were facing, that showed me that the side with all the holes was up and not the side with the writing. |
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Post by millsc on Aug 31, 2014 20:06:31 GMT -5
The jet should be fine. |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 1, 2014 4:04:59 GMT -5
Hello everyone, Remember when I said my bike sounded like a small dirt bike? We'll I just realized why it was so loud.. I forgot to put the gasket on between the block and the muffler. I was so tired that I just forgot. The bbk didn't come with any instructions or diagrams so I have to figure out what goes where. My question is: Do I put the copper ring in this thing and also the thin flat gasket? Or do I put the copper ring only? Or the thin flat gasket only?     Also do I NEED to change the oil pump? Is this a special one that has to go with the BBK? Or can I just use the one already in my bike for now and save this for if I really need it? And what the heck is the plastic gear for? I really wish they gave instructions or a diagram with this kit.  Today is a holiday so I don't thing I'll be receiving my sliders and springs in the mail, But I still might just do everything else that needs to be done so I can just have the little cvt to do when the parts get here. Another question: The performance variator... I think I want one but will it be to big for my case? Which one so you recommend? I know they have the ones with a steeper incline and others, but with my 8g sliders will this be too much? Thanks for all your help. |
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 1, 2014 15:21:56 GMT -5
The plastic gear is for the Oil Pump, and you do not have to change it just save it for later use. The Flat thin paper washer is most likely for the tensioner you use the copper ring on the exhaust. Performance Variators are bigger in diameter to allow the belt climb higher for more top end speed(bigger wheel turns a smaller wheel faster). Measure yours across and convert it to millimeters then see how much space is between the case and the current variator then you can get one that will fit. They have them 89mm and some a little bigger.
Alleyoop
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Post by blacraven on Sept 1, 2014 23:48:21 GMT -5
**Update**
Copper ring installation
after installing the copper ring gasket, when I started the bike(via jumper cables still) it sounded a quieter, but still was way too loud, especially when giving it throttle it got like a small dirt bike again.
when i let it go to low idle(which I couldn't really because the bike wont stay on) it was kinda ok.
but reving was way loud.
I smell exhaust fumes, and It sounds like there's maybe a hole or crack somewhere in the exhaust, I didn't see any holes or cracks but ill take a better look later.
I really need this bike quiet.
Popping sound when quick reving throttle(not backfiring?)
When I give the throttle a quick rev, I hear a low popping sound, it sounds like its coming from the place where I installed the copper ring gasket maybe?? But I don't hear it coming from the back of the muffler where I believe back firing comes from.
Oil leak?
I saw a few small oil spots under the bike when I sat idling for a few minutes.
I'm pretty sire I put all the gaskets back in, the one at the base and the metal one in the middle.
I made sure everything was nice and tight but took care not to over tighten the cheap metal these things are made from.
Ill check this out more later
Air intake parts removal?
I was told to remove the old intake box and all parts affiliated.
When I went to do this, I noticed that there was a hose running to a stem on the manifold in between the carb and the manifold.
Do I just leave this stem empty and open?
Do I just plug the stem up?
Up and down the block test ride(I still have the stock springs and the 5g rollers until other parts come)
*Note-Ill reserve judgement on the actual performance until I get the springs sliders and exhaust fixed first
I took it up and down the block a few times and at first like before it flew quickly to about 15-20mph then idled high while maintaining about 20mph.
Atleast one or two times I felt like it was picking up normally, like to 35 normally... then riding back down the block, back to the 15-20mph then rev high.
I still didn't take a look at the clutch yet, ill try to get to it tomorrow and also check which RR my bike takes, unless there's the same one for my model type, if so let me know and ill just order it.
What do you think about this exhaust situation?
Thanks.
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 2, 2014 12:59:52 GMT -5
The POPPING SOUND when does it happen :
1. GETTING UP TO SPEED? = TO RICH to much fuel(did you put in a bigger main jet), if so it is to big?
2. AS IT IDLES DOWN? = TO LEAN on the PILOT JET or IDLE is set to Low(set to 1500-1800) or adjust the fuel ratio mixture a little richer(counter clockwise).
Do not understand about the high revs? Please explain in detail.
The Exhaust you may have a cracked pipe or the muffler is shot.
If you take emissions off any Vacuum hose needs to be plugged up. No Vacuum hose should be open otherwise it will not draw fuel and you will have problems.
Also any EXTRA air being sucked in from any open or LEAKING part(manifold, clamps not on tight holding the carb etc.. is a NO NO it will then run LEAN.
Alleyoop
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Post by blacraven on Sept 2, 2014 18:22:49 GMT -5
The POPPING SOUND when does it happen : 1. GETTING UP TO SPEED? = TO RICH to much fuel(did you put in a bigger main jet), if so it is to big? 2. AS IT IDLES DOWN? = TO LEAN on the PILOT JET or IDLE is set to Low(set to 1500-1800) or adjust the fuel ratio mixture a little richer(counter clockwise). Do not understand about the high revs? Please explain in detail. The Exhaust you may have a cracked pipe or the muffler is shot. If you take emissions off any Vacuum hose needs to be plugged up. No Vacuum hose should be open otherwise it will not draw fuel and you will have problems. Also any EXTRA air being sucked in from any open or LEAKING part(manifold, clamps not on tight holding the carb etc.. is a NO NO it will then run LEAN. Alleyoop Thanks Alley, The popping sound happens when I'm sitting still and revving the throttle to keep the bike on. When I do a quick hard rev,(not moving just sitting) I hear the low pop sound. As I rev up, not coming down off the rev I installed the # jet and everything the kit came with except the oil pump. If my muffler is shot do I just buy a new one or can I repair it? I actually use to smell fumes a long time ago and my bike didn't sound as low as I wanted for quite some time, but never this loud. What do you recommend for the absolute quietest exhaust for me? As far as the high revs: Imagine you were doing 50mph in second gear. That's exactly how it is. That's why I thought the clutch maybe was messed up and making my belt slip. I suspect the pads maybe worn or something... I have 4995miles on my scooter and never messed with the clutch. How long before you need pads/clutch service? And how often should I change the gear oil? Also if this means anything, my bike was laying on its side for about a month before I took it out to fix (someone knocked it over) I'm about to work on the bike right now and I'll take a good look at everything and report back in a few hours. |
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 2, 2014 20:21:34 GMT -5
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Post by blacraven on Sept 3, 2014 7:48:50 GMT -5
Update I ran into a problem, I cannot get the nut off the clutch bell, I'm going to see if I can pick up an impact gun today. Any suggestions on getting it off without an impact gun? I'd rather not buy one for just this one thing. Also am almost 100% sure that my clutch is the problem. When I took the cvt cover off, my belt had wire sticking out of two places, it was being shredded because the clutch plates that open and close. Just as I suspected, they are not opening and closing smoothly anymore. Sometimes they close crooked/slanted and spin on a wobble if you know what I mean. It doesn't feel smooth pulling the plates back anymore like when I changed my belt a couple of times, it feels like its hard in some spots and the plate pulls back in evenly at times. Which I'm thinking is why sometimes I go to at least 15-20mph fast and rev and other times I go to only about 10 mph and rev? I did a video on the popping but the sound wasn't coming through, ill do a better one a little later. Next time I start it up, I'll observe carefully when it's happening. I adjusted the valves to .005 at first then upon your advise I adjusted them to .004 I'm gonna order a new clutch today if I don't see one at a good price around town And then I'll be able to give the bike a proper evaluation. As far as the exhaust, I don't really care about a performance exhaust(should I care?) I really just want it quiet. What can I do to achieve this result and how bad will it affect my performance? Side note: I went to change the front brake pads, and after getting the caliper off, I realized that I had the wrong pads.(long story) I'll be ordering them and the back brakes along with the other stuff. Thanks for everything, Will update later. |
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 6, 2014 0:33:43 GMT -5
Have you ever adjusted the rear brakes? Not tighten them with the nut , but adjust the arm .if you have drum brakes on the rear and have never readjusted the arm then you more then Likely have plenty pad left on the rear shoes . I changed mine after over 12,000 miles and they still had almost half the amount of pad left on each shoe . Probably more like a third left .
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Post by blacraven on Sept 6, 2014 1:06:55 GMT -5
Have you ever adjusted the rear brakes? Not tighten them with the nut , but adjust the arm .if you have drum brakes on the rear and have never readjusted the arm then you more then Likely have plenty pad left on the rear shoes . I changed mine after over 12,000 miles and they still had almost half the amount of pad left on each shoe . Probably more like a third left . You know what, when I took the front pads of, there was about half of the pad left. I was surprised because I thought it might be worn all the way down. I have 4995 miles on it. As far as the back brakes, I adjusted the screw twice before but I never did it again because I was scared that it might not be enough pad left and I could mess something up. How many times can I adjust that screw? Do you think maybe it's a half of pad left like on the front? Because if I could just adjust it again, then I'm gonna hold on to the new front and back brakes until I really need them. On another note, I got the whole rear clutch assembly in today, along with the rear brakes and the rectifier regulator. The front pads are still on their way. I'm gonna get busy Saturday evening and let you guys know what's up from there. I purchased an impact gun for the clutch bell nut that I couldn't get off. What do you recommend for me to keep the clutch bell still so I can use the impact gun? I was gonna try and wedge a screwdriver or something in there but I don't wanna mess anything up that will make things bad for me. I don't really care about the old clutch because I have a new one, but I don't wanna mess up the shaft or something. I'm thinking about just patching the exhaust up to quiet it if I can. (I really need it quiet) What's best? I was thinking about the muffler tape and epoxy for mufflers and things like that. I'll check it out when i do everything else. Are there any tricks to spotting a faulty exhaust besides the obvious holes or cracks? What are the thing that I should I be looking for? Thanks |
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 6, 2014 5:55:38 GMT -5
Have you ever adjusted the rear brakes? Not tighten them with the nut , but adjust the arm .if you have drum brakes on the rear and have never readjusted the arm then you more then Likely have plenty pad left on the rear shoes . I changed mine after over 12,000 miles and they still had almost half the amount of pad left on each shoe . Probably more like a third left . You know what, when I took the front pads of, there was about half of the pad left. I was surprised because I thought it might be worn all the way down. I have 4995 miles on it. As far as the back brakes, I adjusted the screw twice before but I never did it again because I was scared that it might not be enough pad left and I could mess something up. How many times can I adjust that screw? Do you think maybe it's a half of pad left like on the front? Because if I could just adjust it again, then I'm gonna hold on to the new front and back brakes until I really need them. On another note, I got the whole rear clutch assembly in today, along with the rear brakes and the rectifier regulator. The front pads are still on their way. I'm gonna get busy Saturday evening and let you guys know what's up from there. I purchased an impact gun for the clutch bell nut that I couldn't get off. What do you recommend for me to keep the clutch bell still so I can use the impact gun? I was gonna try and wedge a screwdriver or something in there but I don't wanna mess anything up that will make things bad for me. I don't really care about the old clutch because I have a new one, but I don't wanna mess up the shaft or something. I'm thinking about just patching the exhaust up to quiet it if I can. (I really need it quiet) What's best? I was thinking about the muffler tape and epoxy for mufflers and things like that. I'll check it out when i do everything else. Are there any tricks to spotting a faulty exhaust besides the obvious holes or cracks? What are the thing that I should I be looking for? Thanks When it comes to the rear brakes you can adjust the nut until you can't turn it anymore and then you will have to readjust the arm " the lever that the nut pulls forward " you unscrew the nut so that the brakes are fully released " take the nut off" and the arm has a small 5/16 blot holding it on ," take that off " then pull the arm Off" it has groves that fit over a small shaft " reposition it back a little further and put the bolt back in , then reinsert the brake line and nut . Then you will be able to use the nut to adjust the brakes again like when they were new . I did this 3 times " re adjusting the arm after fully adjusting the nut " When it comes to the impact , just hold the clutch still with your hand. It will shake a little but the impact will take it off without spinning it . That's why there so much better to use then trying to find some other method of holding it while trying to crank on the nut. As for the exhaust , if you can tell where it's leaking you can get some jb weld " the kind u mix with the separate hardener" to seal the leak , they also make a type of putty weld that you have to heat with a torch after you apply it . Someone may have a better idea for the exhaust but that's my thoughts on it . |
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 6, 2014 6:02:09 GMT -5
Here is a pic of the brake arm that you need to reposition .  |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 7, 2014 3:57:00 GMT -5
Good news and Bad news?
Here's the latest,
Things I installed today: New Rectifier Regulator, New clutch and bell, New drive belt.
I installed the new Rectifier Regulator, no problems there.
I purchased an impact gun and got the clutch bell nut off.
The old clutch was worn down and had thin pads left.
The inside of the clutch bell was grinded up and had grooves inside of it, the same way when your brake pads are low and the metal digs into the calipers and you need to replace the calipers. (luckily I purchased the new clutch assembly)
Clutch nut/Springs
I went to install the 1500 rpm spring set in my new clutch assembly and I realized that my wrench wasn't large enough to fit the wide nut.
I'm gonna go and purchase a bigger one tomorrow or something I can use to get the screw off.(Please let me know what all I can use that maybe a do-it-yourself without me having to purchase another tool, or whats the best and cheapest tool I can purchase?)
Compressing the spring?
I purchased a c-clamp to compress the clutch, but I cant get it to squeeze it down, even after tightening the c-clamp by hand as much as I could it until I couldn't anymore.
Am I doing something wrong?
Should I just use the wrench and turn the c-clamp until it presses the clutch down?
Will doing that mess something up?
I watched many videos and people compressed it by using two feet.
I did this on the old and new clutch but it didn't budge...It looked so easy in the videos but its stiff as heck and wont budge, even when standing on it with my whole body weight of 184 LBS.
Am I doing something wrong?
Still making the low popping noise
Its still making the low popping sound when I stop giving it gas and let it almost shut off and then hit the throttle(pop...)
I still will make the video soon as I get a chance
Oil leak
There is also an oil leak. It comes out through the center stand. I still have to take a good look and see what's going on and exactly where it's coming from.
Loud Muffler? Not really anymore...
The exhaust is not as bad sounding.
It's pretty normal at idle but when I rev it up I can hear what I'm guessing is the 100cc.
Whatever it is, it's too loud for my taste.
How can I get it quieter?
Is there something I can do to the exhaust to quiet it without causing a problem?
Test ride/Good news
I happy to say that the bike was flying again.
I couldn't really go far and see if I had a nice top speed, but it quickly got up to a decent speed while going up and down the block.
The bbk is definitely doing what its supposed to do, and I'm totally satisfied with the take off speed and get up to top speed quickly performance.(Ill test the uphill performance when everything's fixed and it's safe to drive without getting stuck somewhere)
It did really well even without the 1500 rpm springs installed yet and I'm really excited to see what difference the 1500rpm springs will make.
Hard Starting
Again It was very hard to start and took a while,
I had jumper cables hooked up because the battery is dead(im hoping the RR will fix this, I already installed a new stator) and had to crank the scooter and play with the throttle.
After about two minutes it started.
I heard this is because of the performance CDI...
Should I put back my original CDI in there? (I don't wanna lose my performance)
Is there a fix for the hard starting to make it better?
Will it be a gamble that I might drain my battery every single time I wanna start my bike, or will it not be that bad if I tune things right?
I cant use jumper cables everytime I wanna start my bike.
Still wont stay on without giving it throttle
It still wouldn't stay on by itself so I had to give it throttle to keep it running.
I thought the RR would fix this.
Rectifier Regulator working?
I don't know if the new Rectifier Regulator is working or if the old one was even broken...
My headlight and Taillight are still not on(bulbs are working)
But what really shocked me is the side front headlight-assist bulbs were dim and when I revved the throttle they got brighter and dim again when it was idling down.
I thought with a working Stator and RR, It would work like a regulator alternator and keep my lights bright and charge my battery.(Ill have to test when I can run the bike longer, but I dont know if ill need a new battery or not...)
When I went to see if it gave the battery a little bit of a charge after the test ride, the bike wouldn't do anything, like my kickstand kill switch was on or something.
It just didn't make a sound, nothing.
I checked the kickstand kill switch and it was ok, so I jumped the solenoid and it cranked(wouldn't start again though) but it cranked normally,
What is the dang problem now? This is frustrating me.
It starting raining so I just ended it right there and will start again on Sunday.
Thanks,
Please Help
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main jet that came with the bbk in.
..BAD TO THE BONE..
