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Post by blacraven on Sept 8, 2014 1:08:20 GMT -5
**Update**
Hello everyone,
Springs installation
I got the clutch nut off and and installed the 1500 rpm Contra and clutch pad springs.
so with everything the CVT portion is complete for now.
The complete list of the CVT installations are: 8g sliders, new drive belt, new clutch and bell, 1500 rpm contra and clutch springs.
Side note: my valves are set at .003 and .004
Results: I couldn't take it far because I didn't want to get stuck somewhere,
so I couldn't go to a straight where I could've checked the top speed.
That being said,
The take off was awesome, I can really feel the 1500rpm springs.
The fastest I was able to go before reaching the corner was 30mph, but it did so swiftly and gave me a huge smile.
I don't think I'll be having anymore problems in traffic when I'm taking off from a stop with cars behind me.
Last thing now is to test the top speed and if need be, get something decent to further help me out on the road, in case I gotta get out of the way or somewhere in a hurry.
*Side note: Right at the corner of my block an unattended car came right through the light and smashed into a pole, thankfully no one was trying to cross the light, me in particular when I had a horrible take off, I would've been in a world of trouble if I was crossing that intersection like I usually do and had no take off speed.
No crank update/fix
I fixed the no crank issue.
Apparently I didnt give the kickstand kill switch a good look, because that's exactly what it was.
I broke it down and tightened the kickstand nut up first, then the kill switch nut, it's nice and tight now and working.
Pop sound video
Here's a quick video of the pop sound:
Bogging with full throttle
When I let it idle down and then give it full throttle fast, it bogs and will cut off if I don't back off the throttle and rev a few times to catch it and keep it on.(here's the vid of what I mean)
Hard starting with both CDIs?
Its still hard to start, I switched back to the old CDI and the same thing, it wouldn't start.
I put back in the performance CDI and after a while got it to start.
Side note:Only After the test run, I did get it to kick start on the first kick, once.
Still wont stay on by itself
I have to coach it with the throttle
RR problem???
The main headlight(not the side assist-headlights-[its a three light system]) and Taillight are still off(bulbs work)
I still didn't get to run the bike long enough to see if it would fully charge the battery.
I did give it a little charge after my test run, enough to give it a few cranks before dying on like the third rotation. Im guessing this is a good sign, I really don't want to have to change the battery, although I might have to if I'm gonna have hard starting throughout the winter, I don't wanna be stuck somewhere in the cold.
I'm gonna look up some vids on how to check it with the multi meter and report back.
other issues...
I still didn't get the chance to check on the oil leak yet, its still spotting the ground where I'm trying to start, idle, etc...
The muffler is ok now, but I wouldn't mind a how-to on making it quieter when I'm in full throttle.
The next thing I'm gonna do is check the Rectifier Regulator with the multimeter.
Thanks.
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 8, 2014 13:23:48 GMT -5
It needs more fuel, let idle for about 5 minutes so the Enricher shuts off the extra fuel.
Then adjust the Fuel Ratio mixture to get the HIGHEST IDLE , if after adjusting the fuel ratio mixture it is idling to high you can lower the idle using the IDLE SPEEDS screw that is the screw on the throttle cable side it has a SPRING under it, turning that counter clockwise lowers the idle clockwise raises the idle.
Now to get the fuel mixture right you need to turn the Fuel Ratio Screw counter clockwise to feed it more fuel, notice when you twist the throttle it bogs and you can hear all the air coming in NOT ENOUGH FUEL.
So after it warms up 5 minutes idling turn the fuel ratio screw counter clockwise 1/4 at a time and wait a few seconds to allow the motor to catch up with the new setting, LISTEN to the idle and if it GOES UP repeat the 1/4 turns until the IDLE does not change anymore then turn the screw 1/8 clockwise. THEN see if it revs up nice with no hesitation and comes down to idle and stays.
Alleyoop
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Post by blacraven on Sept 8, 2014 13:41:09 GMT -5
It needs more fuel, let idle for about 5 minutes so the Enricher shuts off the extra fuel. Then adjust the Fuel Ratio mixture to get the HIGHEST IDLE , if after adjusting the fuel ratio mixture it is idling to high you can lower the idle using the IDLE SPEEDS screw that is the screw on the throttle cable side it has a SPRING under it, turning that counter clockwise lowers the idle clockwise raises the idle. Now to get the fuel mixture right you need to turn the Fuel Ratio Screw counter clockwise to feed it more fuel, notice when you twist the throttle it bogs and you can hear all the air coming in NOT ENOUGH FUEL. So after it warms up 5 minutes idling turn the fuel ratio screw counter clockwise 1/4 at a time and wait a few seconds to allow the motor to catch up with the new setting, LISTEN to the idle and if it GOES UP repeat the 1/4 turns until the IDLE does not change anymore then turn the screw 1/8 clockwise. THEN see if it revs up nice with no hesitation and comes down to idle and stays. Alleyoop Thanks a million, I'll try this and report back. Only thing, I don't know what screw is what, so I'm gonna have to look up a diagram or a video or something. |
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 8, 2014 13:47:14 GMT -5
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Post by blacraven on Sept 9, 2014 2:27:06 GMT -5
**update new problem
I had to move the bike today to a new location so I was going to use the short trip for a test run to check top speed and uphill climbing.
Afterwards I was going to tune the carb and finish checking the rest of the issues.
Well, after about two blocks and while I was doing about 35mph the bike started to bog and acted like it was out of gas, slowing down and not responding/revving with the throttle until finally it stopped and cut off.
I attempted to kick start(battery is dead and I didn't get a chance to see if the new RR would charge it),
It would start for a second and then die, repeatedly, start then die, while giving it throttle it bogs and gets me a few extra seconds by still dies like it's out of gas.
I thought maybe I Was out of gas because it was really low,
I was already next to a gas station when I stopped so I just pushed it in and filled up with premium(always premium, if you wanna know why, just ask and I'll tell you the story)
After filling up I then attempted to kick it several more times, always the same thing, after a few tries it starts then dies.
I then attempted to do the carb adjustment right there.
To no avail, still got the same thing, after many 1/4 turns counter clockwise on the adjustment screw, same thing.
then I figured something out...
Every time I pulled the throttle a few times first, I get it to start.
So I figured it was starving for gas and having the few squirts of gas in there is enough for a start, so I did this in different variations.
Some with a few throttle turns and others with a lot of throttle turns which allowed me to rev even higher but only until the gas burns out.
I'm guessing more gas can't get in there while the bike is running?
What is going now? Enricher?
How can it be running all this time but now all of a sudden act like its not even getting enough gas to keep it on?
Please help, thanks.
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 9, 2014 2:45:10 GMT -5
Look for a vacuum line that came off or has a crack in it.
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Post by blacraven on Sept 9, 2014 3:11:47 GMT -5
Look for a vacuum line that came off or has a crack in it. Ok thanks, I was thinking that. I took the air box off and there's three vacuum lines that was going to nothing and I sealed them all up. Two(one) on either side if the manifold and one on the top of the cams and valves lid. I don't remember off hand if anymore, but the last time I was working on it, I remember seeing a line and cutting it and sealing it. I'll double check where it went to, but I think it went to nowhere. Is there a diagram of where all the hoses are supposed to go on my carb? Side note: Why are my head and tail lights not working? Even after installing a new RR? |
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 9, 2014 3:23:39 GMT -5
Don't seal the line coming from the valve cover ! That needs to breath . If there were open lines coming from the manifold then that would def cause lean issues .
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Post by blacraven on Sept 9, 2014 5:24:41 GMT -5
Don't seal the line coming from the valve cover ! That needs to breath . If there were open lines coming from the manifold then that would def cause lean issues . So what to do? I took the old air box and all accessories that was with it. Should I just open back up the hose from the top of the valve cover box and leave the two manifold hoses sealed?Without the old air box they aren't connected to anything and I was told no to leave any hoses open. Also I didn't wanna get any dirt in where it shouldn't be. Should I just put some sponge material to act as a filter at the ends of the line and just leave it be? Which lines should be sealed up and which should be left open? The valve cover line= open? The two manifold lines= sealed? |
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 9, 2014 6:19:36 GMT -5
When switched to the uni setup I kept the old air box in place under the seat and kept the valve cover line connected to it " it needs to breath " u can connect a small filter to the end of it and hang it up high . The manifold lines usually connect to the vacuum fuel valve " on many " . I replaced my vacuum valve with a manual shutoff valve and closed off the ends on the line comming from he manifold " mine only had one . I'm not sure how yours is set up " that is the tank placement and if you have an actual pump or a vacuum fuel valve ? If the tank is under the trunk compartment then your fuel delivery is more than likely gravity fed . But one thing you don't want is to have the lines from the manifold left open .
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Post by blacraven on Sept 9, 2014 9:32:39 GMT -5
When switched to the uni setup I kept the old air box in place under the seat and kept the valve cover line connected to it " it needs to breath " u can connect a small filter to the end of it and hang it up high . The manifold lines usually connect to the vacuum fuel valve " on many " . I replaced my vacuum valve with a manual shutoff valve and closed off the ends on the line comming from he manifold " mine only had one . I'm not sure how yours is set up " that is the tank placement and if you have an actual pump or a vacuum fuel valve ? If the tank is under the trunk compartment then your fuel delivery is more than likely gravity fed . But one thing you don't want is to have the lines from the manifold left open . I took the old air box and all affiliated stuff off (The old airbox was in the way of the new filter): Adjust the valves to .004 take all the emissions stuff off and take the air box completely off put the filter directly on the carb. When I installed the new carb I had no hole milled out of this part in the pic, this hose that went here was removed along with the air stuff, I think the vacuum fuel valve?  I took all this off also shown in the pic along with the air box, when the new carb was in, this wide breather tube to the old air box was in the way of it.(the new air filter shown in front of it)  This was removed which I'm guessing is the vacuum fuel valve? and it's hoses.  The hoses that were left that went to the removed parts were: The valve cover hose(I cut the hose to a small piece and sealed it up) The two hoses on either side of the manifold(I cut them to a small piece and sealed them up) My gas tank is behind me, I'm not sure if its a gravity feed like you said. What do I do now? Am I supposed to get new hoses and put the fuel vacuum valve back on? And if so, where will it connect to? The new bbk doesn't have the hole milled out to accept the main hose that goes to it from the fuel vacuum valve... Also what about the line that goes to the old air box from the fuel vacuum valve? Do I put the air box and back on also and just squeeze it in or cut a piece off so it fits, and will it even breathe properly without being connected to the carb anymore? or Do I just unplug ceartain hoses and let them breathe, and plug certain ones that need to be? Please explain. |
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 9, 2014 13:46:18 GMT -5
YOu took all the emission stuff off, NOW every emission VALVE or CANISTER had a VACUUM LINE connected to it. ANY VACUUM LINE connected to what you took off MUST BE PLUGGED. Now the HOSE connected to the VALVE cover near the top is your CRANKCASE VENT HOSE, just take that hose and zip tie it higher than the valve cover and if you have a spare fuel filter stick that on the end of that hose IT HAS TO VENT SO DO NOT PLUG THIS HOSE. You have a PETCOCK and a VACUUM HOSE going to the PETCOCK without VACUUM to the PETCOCK NO GAS will flow to the carb unless you took that off also. So you should only have ONE thick hose from the VALVE COVER zipped tied on the frame and ONE VACUUM line going to the petcock and if you have a CVK carb with an ACV valve vacuum going to that and that is it. Here is my carb VACUUM setup connected to a "T" splitter, 1 Vacuum hose going to the ACV valve on the Carb and 1 Vacuum line going to my Fuel Pump which is up front yours is a Petcock and its a Gravity system it is either screwed into the tank or is is bolted to the frame. Alleyoop This is all you should have, your fuel line will be going back to your tank my tank is in front.  |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 9, 2014 16:53:57 GMT -5
YOu took all the emission stuff off, NOW every emission VALVE or CANISTER had a VACUUM LINE connected to it. ANY VACUUM LINE connected to what you took off MUST BE PLUGGED. Now the HOSE connected to the VALVE cover near the top is your CRANKCASE VENT HOSE, just take that hose and zip tie it higher than the valve cover and if you have a spare fuel filter stick that on the end of that hose IT HAS TO VENT SO DO NOT PLUG THIS HOSE. You have a PETCOCK and a VACUUM HOSE going to the PETCOCK without VACUUM to the PETCOCK NO GAS will flow to the carb unless you took that off also. So you should only have ONE thick hose from the VALVE COVER zipped tied on the frame and ONE VACUUM line going to the petcock and if you have a CVK carb with an ACV valve vacuum going to that and that is it. Here is my carb VACUUM setup connected to a "T" splitter, 1 Vacuum hose going to the ACV valve on the Carb and 1 Vacuum line going to my Fuel Pump which is up front yours is a Petcock and its a Gravity system it is either screwed into the tank or is is bolted to the frame. Alleyoop This is all you should have, your fuel line will be going back to your tank my tank is in front. Ok, so I'm going to: Put a longer hose on the top of the valve cover(because I cut it)and zip tie it somewhere higher and put a filter on it. Should I do a T-joint like yours with one of the manifold outs(and plug the other one? There's two, one on either side) and the ACV and run the the line to the PETCOCK? Also I'm pretty sure the ACV is on the bottom of my carb, not the side. When I get home I'll check if the hose is connected to the PETCOCK already from there. If it is a line already going to the PETCOCK from the ACV, Do I just get a T-joint and run a line into it from one side of the manifold? |
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 9, 2014 17:11:23 GMT -5
I noticed your Intake Manifold has 2 vacuum connectors so you can use both 1 connect to the ACV valve on the Carb and from the other connector to your PETCOCK . And then put a longer hose on the Valve Cover Vent and zip tie it higher than the valve cover . Also any open hose connectors that went to your air box PLUG those up otherwise you will be getting extra air in DONE.
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Post by blacraven on Sept 9, 2014 17:34:50 GMT -5
I noticed your Intake Manifold has 2 vacuum connectors so you can use both 1 connect to the ACV valve on the Carb and from the other connector to your PETCOCK . And then put a longer hose on the Valve Cover Vent and zip tie it higher than the valve cover . Also any open hose connectors that went to your air box PLUG those up otherwise you will be getting extra air in DONE. Ok thanks I'll do this when I get home and report back. |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
