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Post by blacraven on Jan 16, 2015 9:34:18 GMT -5
Everything is frozen here so I had to put things on hold, I'll be working on things again as soon as the weather breaks.
Thanks for everything.
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Post by blacraven on Sept 14, 2014 6:21:53 GMT -5
I'm going to check the wires and that clip under the side panel today. The bike is not running rough now, it was running rough but I fixed that problem. My problem now is the dim lights and no headlight/taillight. With a new stator and RR, it could be a wire or something. But that still doesn't explain why it started up again when I replaced the stator, that would mean that the stator was fully connected to what it needed to be right? So that left the RR, now I have the new one, I just gotta run the checks. So frustrating. Also I have the old CDI to switch back and forth. It starts with both, but it's a very hard start. So you just have hard starts and no rear or front lights . " and dim lights " the dim lights bother me . I would say the stator is ok , I'm leaning towards a short somewhere in the lights . Now that I think of it that clip being unhooked probably wouldn't cause the dim lighting. But it's still good to check . I would keep rechecking the regulator , if there is a short it could cause the regulator to eventually go . I'm going to go through everything with the multi today |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 12, 2014 3:11:44 GMT -5
Yes I made sure everything was an exact match. I went through everything with the multi meter and posted the results. I was told that it was the stator, I then purchased a new stator and the bike started. From there it was running really rough and still had the dim lights problem and the head/tail lights weren't working. From there I purchased the complete 100cc big bore kit, the link to the kit is in the previous pages of this thread. It came with a new carb, #  main jet, performance ignition coil and CDI, air filter, A9 cam, rocker arms and a whole lot more. I also installed a new clutch and bell, 1500rpm spring set, 8g sliders, etc... When I purchased the new RR I thought that was the end and I would be done. But here I am still. I'll get some new batteries for the multi meter tomorrow and check the RR and the fuse by the battery, I have the video tutorial posted earlier in this thread to check the stator/CDI/ignition coil. I saw a video on how to check the RR, But what I really need is a tutorial on how to check all the electrical stuff and all the wires that needs to be working to keep lights and things bright and stuff like that. If I'm not mistaken there is a clip under the right side panel that connects the tail lights , when mine came apart my head lights didn't work . Of course that wouldn't cause the running rough . That issue really sounds like a timing problem or a cdi problem " I know this has already been considered . When it comes to the wiring the only thing you can do is check the connections , check continuity " to make sure connections are being made and that there are no breaks in any wires , and test all components . When it comes to the cdi it may not be completely bad " still work but going bad " and will cause miss firing issues . " even a new cdi maybe bad " happens very often . Sounds as if you may have more then one issue , but when it comes to wiring and electrical components it can be a nightmare . I'm going to check the wires and that clip under the side panel today. The bike is not running rough now, it was running rough but I fixed that problem. My problem now is the dim lights and no headlight/taillight. With a new stator and RR, it could be a wire or something. But that still doesn't explain why it started up again when I replaced the stator, that would mean that the stator was fully connected to what it needed to be right? So that left the RR, now I have the new one, I just gotta run the checks. So frustrating. Also I have the old CDI to switch back and forth. It starts with both, but it's a very hard start. |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 11, 2014 4:51:28 GMT -5
I have no idea how to tell which one I'm using. I can post the links to the stator and regulator I purchased: RR RR linkStator Stator linkLast I checked my fuse by the battery was good, I'll check it again tomorrow I was mainly asking if you ordered the same size stator and the same style regulator as the old ones . I've heard on many buying a new regulator and it being defective . You've probably done this already but I would go through the entire wiring and make sure all the connections are solid , also check the fuse by the battery . Yes I made sure everything was an exact match. I went through everything with the multi meter and posted the results. I was told that it was the stator, I then purchased a new stator and the bike started. From there it was running really rough and still had the dim lights problem and the head/tail lights weren't working. From there I purchased the complete 100cc big bore kit, the link to the kit is in the previous pages of this thread. It came with a new carb, # main jet, performance ignition coil and CDI, air filter, A9 cam, rocker arms and a whole lot more. I also installed a new clutch and bell, 1500rpm spring set, 8g sliders, etc... When I purchased the new RR I thought that was the end and I would be done. But here I am still. I'll get some new batteries for the multi meter tomorrow and check the RR and the fuse by the battery, I have the video tutorial posted earlier in this thread to check the stator/CDI/ignition coil. I saw a video on how to check the RR, But what I really need is a tutorial on how to check all the electrical stuff and all the wires that needs to be working to keep lights and things bright and stuff like that. |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 11, 2014 1:06:37 GMT -5
What type of stator and regulator are u using ? I just went back to get reacquainted with the thread , are all your grounds good ? Also how's the fuse by the battery ? I have no idea how to tell which one I'm using. I can post the links to the stator and regulator I purchased: RR RR linkStator Stator linkLast I checked my fuse by the battery was good, I'll check it again tomorrow |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 11, 2014 0:08:44 GMT -5
One thing I learned very quick was that there is no bringing these scoot batteries back from the dead . I had a new battery sit for 3 months and when I tried to start my scoot with it it was dead and even after I tried charging it the battery still would not hold a charge . " I've had this happen to 3 different batteries " You probably just need a new one . Run jumper cables from a car battery to your scoot and see what happens . If it starts and all the lights work then the rr should be good " although that won't tell you if the battery ischarging . But atleast you will know everything else is good . And it's not really good to run the scoot without a battery . The lights DONT work, that's why I said I don't know if the new RR is functioning(I also have a new stator). Even when I replaced the RR the headlight or the taillight still wouldn't come on and the bulbs are working. Also dead battery or not, From what I understand, my lights throughout the bike should be functioning and bright because the stator and RR is working. I'm lost at this point. |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 11, 2014 0:05:57 GMT -5
One thing I learned very quick was that there is no bringing these scoot batteries back from the dead . I had a new battery sit for 3 months and when I tried to start my scoot with it it was dead and even after I tried charging it the battery still would not hold a charge . " I've had this happen to 3 different batteries " You probably just need a new one . Run jumper cables from a car battery to your scoot and see what happens . If it starts and all the lights work then the rr should be good " although that won't tell you if the battery ischarging . But atleast you will know everything else is good . And it's not really good to run the scoot without a battery . The lights DONT work, that's why I said I don't know if the new RR is functioning(I also have a new stator). Even when I replaced the RR the headlight or the taillight still wouldn't come on and the bulbs are working. Also dead battery or not, From what I understand, my lights throughout the bike should be functioning and bright because the stator and RR is working. |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 10, 2014 18:13:06 GMT -5
Update
I put a longer hose on the valve cover vent and a filter on the end and zip tied it to a higher part of the frame.
I put a hose from one side of the manifold to the PETCOCK.
I have no ACV on my carb, only the fuel in from the PETCOCK, the L shaped breather one on the top/side and the fuel drain hose.
So I plugged up the other side of the manifold hose.
And only AFTER I adjusted the idle screw so it can idle a little higher, the bike stays on.
(I still have to fine tune the carb..)
But....
This hard starting is completely unacceptable.
Right now I'm doing it with jumper cable attached to the jeep, but what about when I'm out and about?
Will the battery be enough without going dead?
(I still have the dead battery in there, how can I check if it will hold a charge? Do I have to just let it run for an hour and see?)
Also I'm not sure if the new RR is working,
My speedometer lights are really dim and only when I rev it they get bright.
Shouldn't a working RR and stator keep the lights nice and bright as long as the bike is running?
Why is it doing this, even after I changed the Stator and RR?
How can I check this with the multi meter?
*****NEW UPDATE
I just left AutoZone and the guy said I needed battery water.
I asked about the battery acid and he said that I just needed plain water,
So we filled each compartment until it was filled with water and he put it in the charge machine for about 20 minutes(he said that's all it needs)
I went to check it with my multi meter but the batteries were dead.
So I went so start the bike and nothing.
No lights, no turn signals, no horn, no nothing.
I then kick started it and it started(Hooray),
The speedometer lights were dim as usual, but this time my signals wouldn't work.
Is this power/charging issue just me needing a new battery?
Is the fact that it started and ran with no battery power proof that the RR and stator are working?
And if so, why aren't the lights bright and my head/tail lights are still off and why weren't the signals working?
Please help
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Post by blacraven on Sept 9, 2014 17:34:50 GMT -5
I noticed your Intake Manifold has 2 vacuum connectors so you can use both 1 connect to the ACV valve on the Carb and from the other connector to your PETCOCK . And then put a longer hose on the Valve Cover Vent and zip tie it higher than the valve cover . Also any open hose connectors that went to your air box PLUG those up otherwise you will be getting extra air in DONE. Ok thanks I'll do this when I get home and report back. |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 9, 2014 16:53:57 GMT -5
YOu took all the emission stuff off, NOW every emission VALVE or CANISTER had a VACUUM LINE connected to it. ANY VACUUM LINE connected to what you took off MUST BE PLUGGED. Now the HOSE connected to the VALVE cover near the top is your CRANKCASE VENT HOSE, just take that hose and zip tie it higher than the valve cover and if you have a spare fuel filter stick that on the end of that hose IT HAS TO VENT SO DO NOT PLUG THIS HOSE. You have a PETCOCK and a VACUUM HOSE going to the PETCOCK without VACUUM to the PETCOCK NO GAS will flow to the carb unless you took that off also. So you should only have ONE thick hose from the VALVE COVER zipped tied on the frame and ONE VACUUM line going to the petcock and if you have a CVK carb with an ACV valve vacuum going to that and that is it. Here is my carb VACUUM setup connected to a "T" splitter, 1 Vacuum hose going to the ACV valve on the Carb and 1 Vacuum line going to my Fuel Pump which is up front yours is a Petcock and its a Gravity system it is either screwed into the tank or is is bolted to the frame. Alleyoop This is all you should have, your fuel line will be going back to your tank my tank is in front.  Ok, so I'm going to: Put a longer hose on the top of the valve cover(because I cut it)and zip tie it somewhere higher and put a filter on it. Should I do a T-joint like yours with one of the manifold outs(and plug the other one? There's two, one on either side) and the ACV and run the the line to the PETCOCK? Also I'm pretty sure the ACV is on the bottom of my carb, not the side. When I get home I'll check if the hose is connected to the PETCOCK already from there. If it is a line already going to the PETCOCK from the ACV, Do I just get a T-joint and run a line into it from one side of the manifold? |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 9, 2014 9:32:39 GMT -5
When switched to the uni setup I kept the old air box in place under the seat and kept the valve cover line connected to it " it needs to breath " u can connect a small filter to the end of it and hang it up high . The manifold lines usually connect to the vacuum fuel valve " on many " . I replaced my vacuum valve with a manual shutoff valve and closed off the ends on the line comming from he manifold " mine only had one . I'm not sure how yours is set up " that is the tank placement and if you have an actual pump or a vacuum fuel valve ? If the tank is under the trunk compartment then your fuel delivery is more than likely gravity fed . But one thing you don't want is to have the lines from the manifold left open . I took the old air box and all affiliated stuff off (The old airbox was in the way of the new filter): Adjust the valves to .004 take all the emissions stuff off and take the air box completely off put the filter directly on the carb. When I installed the new carb I had no hole milled out of this part in the pic, this hose that went here was removed along with the air stuff, I think the vacuum fuel valve?  I took all this off also shown in the pic along with the air box, when the new carb was in, this wide breather tube to the old air box was in the way of it.(the new air filter shown in front of it)  This was removed which I'm guessing is the vacuum fuel valve? and it's hoses.  The hoses that were left that went to the removed parts were: The valve cover hose(I cut the hose to a small piece and sealed it up) The two hoses on either side of the manifold(I cut them to a small piece and sealed them up) My gas tank is behind me, I'm not sure if its a gravity feed like you said. What do I do now? Am I supposed to get new hoses and put the fuel vacuum valve back on? And if so, where will it connect to? The new bbk doesn't have the hole milled out to accept the main hose that goes to it from the fuel vacuum valve... Also what about the line that goes to the old air box from the fuel vacuum valve? Do I put the air box and back on also and just squeeze it in or cut a piece off so it fits, and will it even breathe properly without being connected to the carb anymore? or Do I just unplug ceartain hoses and let them breathe, and plug certain ones that need to be? Please explain. |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 9, 2014 5:24:41 GMT -5
Don't seal the line coming from the valve cover ! That needs to breath . If there were open lines coming from the manifold then that would def cause lean issues . So what to do? I took the old air box and all accessories that was with it. Should I just open back up the hose from the top of the valve cover box and leave the two manifold hoses sealed?Without the old air box they aren't connected to anything and I was told no to leave any hoses open. Also I didn't wanna get any dirt in where it shouldn't be. Should I just put some sponge material to act as a filter at the ends of the line and just leave it be? Which lines should be sealed up and which should be left open? The valve cover line= open? The two manifold lines= sealed? |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 9, 2014 3:11:47 GMT -5
Look for a vacuum line that came off or has a crack in it. Ok thanks, I was thinking that. I took the air box off and there's three vacuum lines that was going to nothing and I sealed them all up. Two(one) on either side if the manifold and one on the top of the cams and valves lid. I don't remember off hand if anymore, but the last time I was working on it, I remember seeing a line and cutting it and sealing it. I'll double check where it went to, but I think it went to nowhere. Is there a diagram of where all the hoses are supposed to go on my carb? Side note: Why are my head and tail lights not working? Even after installing a new RR? |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 9, 2014 2:27:06 GMT -5
**update new problem
I had to move the bike today to a new location so I was going to use the short trip for a test run to check top speed and uphill climbing.
Afterwards I was going to tune the carb and finish checking the rest of the issues.
Well, after about two blocks and while I was doing about 35mph the bike started to bog and acted like it was out of gas, slowing down and not responding/revving with the throttle until finally it stopped and cut off.
I attempted to kick start(battery is dead and I didn't get a chance to see if the new RR would charge it),
It would start for a second and then die, repeatedly, start then die, while giving it throttle it bogs and gets me a few extra seconds by still dies like it's out of gas.
I thought maybe I Was out of gas because it was really low,
I was already next to a gas station when I stopped so I just pushed it in and filled up with premium(always premium, if you wanna know why, just ask and I'll tell you the story)
After filling up I then attempted to kick it several more times, always the same thing, after a few tries it starts then dies.
I then attempted to do the carb adjustment right there.
To no avail, still got the same thing, after many 1/4 turns counter clockwise on the adjustment screw, same thing.
then I figured something out...
Every time I pulled the throttle a few times first, I get it to start.
So I figured it was starving for gas and having the few squirts of gas in there is enough for a start, so I did this in different variations.
Some with a few throttle turns and others with a lot of throttle turns which allowed me to rev even higher but only until the gas burns out.
I'm guessing more gas can't get in there while the bike is running?
What is going now? Enricher?
How can it be running all this time but now all of a sudden act like its not even getting enough gas to keep it on?
Please help, thanks.
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Post by blacraven on Sept 8, 2014 13:41:09 GMT -5
It needs more fuel, let idle for about 5 minutes so the Enricher shuts off the extra fuel. Then adjust the Fuel Ratio mixture to get the HIGHEST IDLE , if after adjusting the fuel ratio mixture it is idling to high you can lower the idle using the IDLE SPEEDS screw that is the screw on the throttle cable side it has a SPRING under it, turning that counter clockwise lowers the idle clockwise raises the idle. Now to get the fuel mixture right you need to turn the Fuel Ratio Screw counter clockwise to feed it more fuel, notice when you twist the throttle it bogs and you can hear all the air coming in NOT ENOUGH FUEL. So after it warms up 5 minutes idling turn the fuel ratio screw counter clockwise 1/4 at a time and wait a few seconds to allow the motor to catch up with the new setting, LISTEN to the idle and if it GOES UP repeat the 1/4 turns until the IDLE does not change anymore then turn the screw 1/8 clockwise. THEN see if it revs up nice with no hesitation and comes down to idle and stays. Alleyoop Thanks a million, I'll try this and report back. Only thing, I don't know what screw is what, so I'm gonna have to look up a diagram or a video or something. |
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main jet, performance ignition coil and CDI, air filter, A9 cam, rocker arms and a whole lot more.
