Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Joined: May 28, 2013 10:51:53 GMT -5
|
Post by blacraven on Sept 8, 2014 1:08:20 GMT -5
**Update**
Hello everyone,
Springs installation I got the clutch nut off and and installed the 1500 rpm Contra and clutch pad springs. so with everything the CVT portion is complete for now.
The complete list of the CVT installations are: 8g sliders, new drive belt, new clutch and bell, 1500 rpm contra and clutch springs. Side note: my valves are set at .003 and .004
Results: I couldn't take it far because I didn't want to get stuck somewhere, so I couldn't go to a straight where I could've checked the top speed.
That being said, The take off was awesome, I can really feel the 1500rpm springs. The fastest I was able to go before reaching the corner was 30mph, but it did so swiftly and gave me a huge smile. I don't think I'll be having anymore problems in traffic when I'm taking off from a stop with cars behind me.
Last thing now is to test the top speed and if need be, get something decent to further help me out on the road, in case I gotta get out of the way or somewhere in a hurry. *Side note: Right at the corner of my block an unattended car came right through the light and smashed into a pole, thankfully no one was trying to cross the light, me in particular when I had a horrible take off, I would've been in a world of trouble if I was crossing that intersection like I usually do and had no take off speed.
No crank update/fix I fixed the no crank issue. Apparently I didnt give the kickstand kill switch a good look, because that's exactly what it was. I broke it down and tightened the kickstand nut up first, then the kill switch nut, it's nice and tight now and working.
Pop sound video Here's a quick video of the pop sound:
Bogging with full throttle When I let it idle down and then give it full throttle fast, it bogs and will cut off if I don't back off the throttle and rev a few times to catch it and keep it on.(here's the vid of what I mean)
Hard starting with both CDIs? Its still hard to start, I switched back to the old CDI and the same thing, it wouldn't start. I put back in the performance CDI and after a while got it to start.
Side note:Only After the test run, I did get it to kick start on the first kick, once.
Still wont stay on by itself I have to coach it with the throttle
RR problem??? The main headlight(not the side assist-headlights-[its a three light system]) and Taillight are still off(bulbs work) I still didn't get to run the bike long enough to see if it would fully charge the battery. I did give it a little charge after my test run, enough to give it a few cranks before dying on like the third rotation. Im guessing this is a good sign, I really don't want to have to change the battery, although I might have to if I'm gonna have hard starting throughout the winter, I don't wanna be stuck somewhere in the cold. I'm gonna look up some vids on how to check it with the multi meter and report back.
other issues... I still didn't get the chance to check on the oil leak yet, its still spotting the ground where I'm trying to start, idle, etc...
The muffler is ok now, but I wouldn't mind a how-to on making it quieter when I'm in full throttle.
The next thing I'm gonna do is check the Rectifier Regulator with the multimeter.
Thanks.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Joined: May 28, 2013 10:51:53 GMT -5
|
Post by blacraven on Sept 7, 2014 3:57:00 GMT -5
Good news and Bad news?
Here's the latest,
Things I installed today: New Rectifier Regulator, New clutch and bell, New drive belt.
I installed the new Rectifier Regulator, no problems there.
I purchased an impact gun and got the clutch bell nut off.
The old clutch was worn down and had thin pads left. The inside of the clutch bell was grinded up and had grooves inside of it, the same way when your brake pads are low and the metal digs into the calipers and you need to replace the calipers. (luckily I purchased the new clutch assembly)
Clutch nut/Springs I went to install the 1500 rpm spring set in my new clutch assembly and I realized that my wrench wasn't large enough to fit the wide nut. I'm gonna go and purchase a bigger one tomorrow or something I can use to get the screw off.(Please let me know what all I can use that maybe a do-it-yourself without me having to purchase another tool, or whats the best and cheapest tool I can purchase?)
Compressing the spring? I purchased a c-clamp to compress the clutch, but I cant get it to squeeze it down, even after tightening the c-clamp by hand as much as I could it until I couldn't anymore. Am I doing something wrong? Should I just use the wrench and turn the c-clamp until it presses the clutch down? Will doing that mess something up?
I watched many videos and people compressed it by using two feet. I did this on the old and new clutch but it didn't budge...It looked so easy in the videos but its stiff as heck and wont budge, even when standing on it with my whole body weight of 184 LBS. Am I doing something wrong?
Still making the low popping noise Its still making the low popping sound when I stop giving it gas and let it almost shut off and then hit the throttle(pop...) I still will make the video soon as I get a chance
Oil leak There is also an oil leak. It comes out through the center stand. I still have to take a good look and see what's going on and exactly where it's coming from.
Loud Muffler? Not really anymore... The exhaust is not as bad sounding. It's pretty normal at idle but when I rev it up I can hear what I'm guessing is the 100cc. Whatever it is, it's too loud for my taste. How can I get it quieter? Is there something I can do to the exhaust to quiet it without causing a problem?
Test ride/Good news I happy to say that the bike was flying again. I couldn't really go far and see if I had a nice top speed, but it quickly got up to a decent speed while going up and down the block. The bbk is definitely doing what its supposed to do, and I'm totally satisfied with the take off speed and get up to top speed quickly performance.(Ill test the uphill performance when everything's fixed and it's safe to drive without getting stuck somewhere) It did really well even without the 1500 rpm springs installed yet and I'm really excited to see what difference the 1500rpm springs will make.
Hard Starting Again It was very hard to start and took a while, I had jumper cables hooked up because the battery is dead(im hoping the RR will fix this, I already installed a new stator) and had to crank the scooter and play with the throttle. After about two minutes it started.
I heard this is because of the performance CDI... Should I put back my original CDI in there? (I don't wanna lose my performance) Is there a fix for the hard starting to make it better? Will it be a gamble that I might drain my battery every single time I wanna start my bike, or will it not be that bad if I tune things right? I cant use jumper cables everytime I wanna start my bike.
Still wont stay on without giving it throttle It still wouldn't stay on by itself so I had to give it throttle to keep it running. I thought the RR would fix this.
Rectifier Regulator working? I don't know if the new Rectifier Regulator is working or if the old one was even broken... My headlight and Taillight are still not on(bulbs are working) But what really shocked me is the side front headlight-assist bulbs were dim and when I revved the throttle they got brighter and dim again when it was idling down. I thought with a working Stator and RR, It would work like a regulator alternator and keep my lights bright and charge my battery.(Ill have to test when I can run the bike longer, but I dont know if ill need a new battery or not...)
When I went to see if it gave the battery a little bit of a charge after the test ride, the bike wouldn't do anything, like my kickstand kill switch was on or something. It just didn't make a sound, nothing. I checked the kickstand kill switch and it was ok, so I jumped the solenoid and it cranked(wouldn't start again though) but it cranked normally,
What is the dang problem now? This is frustrating me.
It starting raining so I just ended it right there and will start again on Sunday.
Thanks, Please Help
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Joined: May 28, 2013 10:51:53 GMT -5
|
Post by blacraven on Sept 6, 2014 1:06:55 GMT -5
Have you ever adjusted the rear brakes? Not tighten them with the nut , but adjust the arm .if you have drum brakes on the rear and have never readjusted the arm then you more then Likely have plenty pad left on the rear shoes . I changed mine after over 12,000 miles and they still had almost half the amount of pad left on each shoe . Probably more like a third left . You know what, when I took the front pads of, there was about half of the pad left. I was surprised because I thought it might be worn all the way down. I have 4995 miles on it. As far as the back brakes, I adjusted the screw twice before but I never did it again because I was scared that it might not be enough pad left and I could mess something up. How many times can I adjust that screw? Do you think maybe it's a half of pad left like on the front? Because if I could just adjust it again, then I'm gonna hold on to the new front and back brakes until I really need them. On another note, I got the whole rear clutch assembly in today, along with the rear brakes and the rectifier regulator. The front pads are still on their way. I'm gonna get busy Saturday evening and let you guys know what's up from there. I purchased an impact gun for the clutch bell nut that I couldn't get off. What do you recommend for me to keep the clutch bell still so I can use the impact gun? I was gonna try and wedge a screwdriver or something in there but I don't wanna mess anything up that will make things bad for me. I don't really care about the old clutch because I have a new one, but I don't wanna mess up the shaft or something. I'm thinking about just patching the exhaust up to quiet it if I can. (I really need it quiet) What's best? I was thinking about the muffler tape and epoxy for mufflers and things like that. I'll check it out when i do everything else. Are there any tricks to spotting a faulty exhaust besides the obvious holes or cracks? What are the thing that I should I be looking for? Thanks
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Joined: May 28, 2013 10:51:53 GMT -5
|
Post by blacraven on Sept 3, 2014 7:48:50 GMT -5
Update I ran into a problem, I cannot get the nut off the clutch bell, I'm going to see if I can pick up an impact gun today. Any suggestions on getting it off without an impact gun? I'd rather not buy one for just this one thing. Also am almost 100% sure that my clutch is the problem. When I took the cvt cover off, my belt had wire sticking out of two places, it was being shredded because the clutch plates that open and close. Just as I suspected, they are not opening and closing smoothly anymore. Sometimes they close crooked/slanted and spin on a wobble if you know what I mean. It doesn't feel smooth pulling the plates back anymore like when I changed my belt a couple of times, it feels like its hard in some spots and the plate pulls back in evenly at times. Which I'm thinking is why sometimes I go to at least 15-20mph fast and rev and other times I go to only about 10 mph and rev? I did a video on the popping but the sound wasn't coming through, ill do a better one a little later. Next time I start it up, I'll observe carefully when it's happening. I adjusted the valves to .005 at first then upon your advise I adjusted them to .004 I'm gonna order a new clutch today if I don't see one at a good price around town And then I'll be able to give the bike a proper evaluation. As far as the exhaust, I don't really care about a performance exhaust(should I care?) I really just want it quiet. What can I do to achieve this result and how bad will it affect my performance? Side note: I went to change the front brake pads, and after getting the caliper off, I realized that I had the wrong pads.(long story) I'll be ordering them and the back brakes along with the other stuff. Thanks for everything, Will update later.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Joined: May 28, 2013 10:51:53 GMT -5
|
Post by blacraven on Sept 2, 2014 18:22:49 GMT -5
The POPPING SOUND when does it happen : 1. GETTING UP TO SPEED? = TO RICH to much fuel(did you put in a bigger main jet), if so it is to big? 2. AS IT IDLES DOWN? = TO LEAN on the PILOT JET or IDLE is set to Low(set to 1500-1800) or adjust the fuel ratio mixture a little richer(counter clockwise). Do not understand about the high revs? Please explain in detail. The Exhaust you may have a cracked pipe or the muffler is shot. If you take emissions off any Vacuum hose needs to be plugged up. No Vacuum hose should be open otherwise it will not draw fuel and you will have problems. Also any EXTRA air being sucked in from any open or LEAKING part(manifold, clamps not on tight holding the carb etc.. is a NO NO it will then run LEAN. Alleyoop Thanks Alley, The popping sound happens when I'm sitting still and revving the throttle to keep the bike on. When I do a quick hard rev,(not moving just sitting) I hear the low pop sound. As I rev up, not coming down off the rev I installed the # jet and everything the kit came with except the oil pump. If my muffler is shot do I just buy a new one or can I repair it? I actually use to smell fumes a long time ago and my bike didn't sound as low as I wanted for quite some time, but never this loud. What do you recommend for the absolute quietest exhaust for me? As far as the high revs: Imagine you were doing 50mph in second gear. That's exactly how it is. That's why I thought the clutch maybe was messed up and making my belt slip. I suspect the pads maybe worn or something... I have 4995miles on my scooter and never messed with the clutch. How long before you need pads/clutch service? And how often should I change the gear oil? Also if this means anything, my bike was laying on its side for about a month before I took it out to fix (someone knocked it over) I'm about to work on the bike right now and I'll take a good look at everything and report back in a few hours.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Joined: May 28, 2013 10:51:53 GMT -5
|
Post by blacraven on Sept 1, 2014 23:48:21 GMT -5
**Update**
Copper ring installation after installing the copper ring gasket, when I started the bike(via jumper cables still) it sounded a quieter, but still was way too loud, especially when giving it throttle it got like a small dirt bike again. when i let it go to low idle(which I couldn't really because the bike wont stay on) it was kinda ok. but reving was way loud. I smell exhaust fumes, and It sounds like there's maybe a hole or crack somewhere in the exhaust, I didn't see any holes or cracks but ill take a better look later. I really need this bike quiet.
Popping sound when quick reving throttle(not backfiring?) When I give the throttle a quick rev, I hear a low popping sound, it sounds like its coming from the place where I installed the copper ring gasket maybe?? But I don't hear it coming from the back of the muffler where I believe back firing comes from.
Oil leak? I saw a few small oil spots under the bike when I sat idling for a few minutes. I'm pretty sire I put all the gaskets back in, the one at the base and the metal one in the middle. I made sure everything was nice and tight but took care not to over tighten the cheap metal these things are made from. Ill check this out more later
Air intake parts removal? I was told to remove the old intake box and all parts affiliated. When I went to do this, I noticed that there was a hose running to a stem on the manifold in between the carb and the manifold. Do I just leave this stem empty and open? Do I just plug the stem up?
Up and down the block test ride(I still have the stock springs and the 5g rollers until other parts come) *Note-Ill reserve judgement on the actual performance until I get the springs sliders and exhaust fixed first I took it up and down the block a few times and at first like before it flew quickly to about 15-20mph then idled high while maintaining about 20mph. Atleast one or two times I felt like it was picking up normally, like to 35 normally... then riding back down the block, back to the 15-20mph then rev high. I still didn't take a look at the clutch yet, ill try to get to it tomorrow and also check which RR my bike takes, unless there's the same one for my model type, if so let me know and ill just order it.
What do you think about this exhaust situation?
Thanks.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Joined: May 28, 2013 10:51:53 GMT -5
|
Post by blacraven on Sept 1, 2014 4:04:59 GMT -5
Hello everyone, Remember when I said my bike sounded like a small dirt bike? We'll I just realized why it was so loud.. I forgot to put the gasket on between the block and the muffler. I was so tired that I just forgot. The bbk didn't come with any instructions or diagrams so I have to figure out what goes where. My question is: Do I put the copper ring in this thing and also the thin flat gasket? Or do I put the copper ring only? Or the thin flat gasket only? Also do I NEED to change the oil pump? Is this a special one that has to go with the BBK? Or can I just use the one already in my bike for now and save this for if I really need it? And what the heck is the plastic gear for? I really wish they gave instructions or a diagram with this kit. Today is a holiday so I don't thing I'll be receiving my sliders and springs in the mail, But I still might just do everything else that needs to be done so I can just have the little cvt to do when the parts get here. Another question: The performance variator... I think I want one but will it be to big for my case? Which one so you recommend? I know they have the ones with a steeper incline and others, but with my 8g sliders will this be too much? Thanks for all your help.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Joined: May 28, 2013 10:51:53 GMT -5
|
Post by blacraven on Aug 31, 2014 19:20:16 GMT -5
Get a new regulator for your charging issue the big bore kit needs more fuel and air after you rejet and put the New filter on it will snap to life, unless your off on the cam timing. Thanks, i'll order a new regulator tonight. As far as the re-jet, I put the # main jet that came with the bbk in. Do I need bigger? I believe my timing is correct, although the new cam didn't really show a top marker for which way was up. Aside from the two side holes on it, there was some writing on one side and multiple holes on the other side, unlike my old cam which only had one hole on the top. What I did was check how the old cam was sitting at top dead center and observe the shaft and which way the gear things were facing, that showed me that the side with all the holes was up and not the side with the writing.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Joined: May 28, 2013 10:51:53 GMT -5
|
Post by blacraven on Aug 31, 2014 4:01:53 GMT -5
Hello everyone, Here's the latest. I installed the BBK complete bbk link, carb, etc...following the instructions of this video: Everything went well with the install but I have a few questions. To the point, I finally got it running and did a test ride today for about five minutes. I had a hard time starting at first, it would turn over then die about a half second later, not really fully turning on. After playing with it for a while I got it to fully turn over and stay on by coaching it with the throttle. It wouldn't stay on with out reving the gas(this also was the case before the bbk install when I was trying to get it running). I must say, even though my bike runs like crap right now, I immediately felt the power. It sounded like a beast just growling at me with each rev of the throttle, just waiting for me to get the thorn out of its paw so it can run like the wind. I took it up and down the block a few times to check things. *Side note I left out the 8g rollers because I was really tired. ill do them after I rest up and get a good meal in me. Most likely ill wait until the 8g sliders and 1500 spring set get here. *Also I forgot to put the black plastic boot/spacer back on that goes in between the carb and the manifold. It still is pretty rough and is loud as a small dirt bike.(I don't like this, I like a quiet scooter) The take off power was impressive but it struggled to go past about 15-20mph all while reving and felling really rough. I couldn't really do any top speed because things are still out of whack, it feels like something is wrong with the clutch/cvt. like im reving way to high for the low mph. I went about 15-20mph maybe? all while feeling like its reving too high and rough, not really smooth in the cvt if you can understand. When I get a chance i'm gonna take off the clutch bell and see whats going on. (I already changed the belt, 5g rollers and variator sliders a few weeks ago) My concerns were: The hole on the bbk wasn't milled out for this thing... The new air filter has no room when the carb is on, can I take all the old air intake stuff off? the box and all the other devices? Does my bike need all these pieces? My old piston looked pretty burned out and this other part was soot black. The throttle clip on the carb doesn't look like its bent down enough, but I didn't mess with it. When I turn the throttle it comes down on it but only a little. Do I need to adjust this so it fully presses the pin down? ( This is what I did a while ago before the bbk install, does this cause too much gas to be injected? Did I cause my bike to run too rich because of this and is that why my piston was black?) Valve adjustment?The guy in the video said to adjust both the valves to .005, which I did. What should I adjust both my valves to? Loud small dirtbike sound?I'm pretty sure I put the muffler back on properly so why is she screaming so loud? and what can I do to make things quiet again? Wont stay onAlso, my bike wont stay on without the throttle and the light dim when it starts to die. Battery? RR...? My battery has been not charging for quite some time and I thought the stator replacement would fix this. I hear about the RR(whats is it?) my tail light and head light doesn't come on anymore(for over a year) but the bulbs are good. Do I need a new battery? or if I fix the problem can my old one recharge? I know this is alot and I thank you guys for your help. My bike is my only form of transportation and I need it running properly. Thanks.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Joined: May 28, 2013 10:51:53 GMT -5
|
Post by blacraven on Aug 28, 2014 21:08:35 GMT -5
I just orders the 1500 rpm springs set And the 8 gram rollers. I'll be installing the bbk this evening, I need some advice, the bbk kit came with the # main jet; how do properly adjust the air/fuel mix or do I not worry about that with the new carb? Is that stuff already adjusted on a new carb and do I just install the main jet? How's it going blacraven , go to hear you went with the rollers , I can tune a cvt just as good if not better then anyone on here . Alley is right about one thing that's you don't want to over jet . But if u ever want better performance you can go with a bigger carb , of course you will want to make sure you have bigger ports from the manifold to the exhaust . Some rookies don't realize that a bigger carb will pull more air allowing for more fuel to pass through the engine . Facts don't lie , plus I have a proven setup . Also it's always good to listen to more then just one person on hear , you'll find out that you can learn much more this way . Thanks for your input, I'm a very good listener and I also have good common sense, One thing I learned in life, is that most people (even the ones that are so-called "professionals" in their field) don't really know what the heck their talking about.. So I observe carefully and just by applying basic wisdom and common sense, I usually can tell when someone genuinely knows their stuff. From the years I've been observing, watching and listening. I know that Alleyoop knows his stuff, and I trust him and make financial decisions concerning my bike off his advice. Now of course I listen to others as well and have gotten great advise from others also. But anyways, The carb that came with the kit is a 19mm a # main jet. Is that a better carb?
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Joined: May 28, 2013 10:51:53 GMT -5
|
Post by blacraven on Aug 28, 2014 20:52:37 GMT -5
Just install it the way it comes and see if it starts up you can fine tune it after it is up and running and idles for at least 5 minutes to let the Enricher cut off the extra fuel. If it appears to be running good the way it came try it out. Alleyoop Ok, so do I not put in the # main jet that it came with, just put the carb in plain? Or are you saying, install it with the # that it came with but don't touch the air/fuel unless I have to and after it's ran for a while? Also please let me know if I should order the taller gears tonight and if so, which ones do you reccomend and how will the taller gears affect my Rpms/performance? And does taller gears mean I have to retune the CVT with different springs/sliders? Or can I keep what I have for now? Thanks in advance
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Joined: May 28, 2013 10:51:53 GMT -5
|
Post by blacraven on Aug 28, 2014 18:05:14 GMT -5
I just orders the 1500 rpm springs set And the 8 gram rollers. I'll be installing the bbk this evening, I need some advice, the bbk kit came with the # main jet; how do properly adjust the air/fuel mix or do I not worry about that with the new carb? Is that stuff already adjusted on a new carb and do I just install the main jet?
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Joined: May 28, 2013 10:51:53 GMT -5
|
Post by blacraven on Aug 28, 2014 14:53:59 GMT -5
Listen to Millsc, he has built more 50cc motors than anyone on here and knows what works and what does not work. And by all means do not overcarb it, rookies always do that thinking bigger is better. The problem is the bigger carbs let a lot of air in and the creates a lot of turbalance in the venturi and do not match the Intake on the motor. The intake opening on the head is made to fit a certain size carb, you stick a big carb on now what you have is a lip all around. Take a nickel and a dime an put them together and you will see what I mean. The nickel is the Carbs new Intake Manifold and the dime is the opening on the head. The openings have to match otherwise the flow of air and fuel is greatly disturbed and does not flow smoothly into the motor. That is why if your familiar with hotrods the intake manifold can take just about any size carb, BUT they have plates that bolt onto the intake to match the size of the carb and the carb bolts onto the plate. Not to many people really know that and is why many run into problems and or the scooter motors which are over carbed do not run as well as one with a good match. Alleyoop Thanks Alley, I really respect your opinion, your kinda the only one I listen to. I'll be ordering both the 1500 rpm springs And some sliders, I'm gonna probably try the 8 g rollers that came with my kit and see how that feels. If I like it then I'll order the 8 g sliders or which ever weight will give me the nicest ride.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Joined: May 28, 2013 10:51:53 GMT -5
|
Post by blacraven on Aug 28, 2014 5:54:31 GMT -5
The 1500 main springs needs heavier weights try 7 or 8 gram sliders Ok so do I get the 1500 rpm main spring and 1500 rpm small springs, Along with the 8 gram sliders? The bbk came with 8 gram rollers and I heard a few posters say that I would have to go 1 gram heavier when switching to sliders. Please explain...
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Joined: May 28, 2013 10:51:53 GMT -5
|
Post by blacraven on Aug 25, 2014 23:53:31 GMT -5
One suggestion. Once you get your CVT tuned the way you want it using rollers, I would then switch to Sliders. Reason being is that rollers develope flats spots as they wear, where sliders do not. Sliders also give you a better engagement. To get a direct interchange between rollers and sliders, go 1 gram higher on your sliders. The reason being is sliders do not need as much force to throw them out, so you do not loose 500-600 rpms like you would with every gram of rollers. Sliders expect around 300 rpm change verses 500-600 rpm changes with rollers. Thanks, im definitely going to get some sliders.
|
|