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Post by blacraven on Sept 10, 2014 18:13:06 GMT -5
Update
I put a longer hose on the valve cover vent and a filter on the end and zip tied it to a higher part of the frame.
I put a hose from one side of the manifold to the PETCOCK.
I have no ACV on my carb, only the fuel in from the PETCOCK, the L shaped breather one on the top/side and the fuel drain hose.
So I plugged up the other side of the manifold hose.
And only AFTER I adjusted the idle screw so it can idle a little higher, the bike stays on.
(I still have to fine tune the carb..)
But....
This hard starting is completely unacceptable.
Right now I'm doing it with jumper cable attached to the jeep, but what about when I'm out and about?
Will the battery be enough without going dead?
(I still have the dead battery in there, how can I check if it will hold a charge? Do I have to just let it run for an hour and see?)
Also I'm not sure if the new RR is working,
My speedometer lights are really dim and only when I rev it they get bright.
Shouldn't a working RR and stator keep the lights nice and bright as long as the bike is running?
Why is it doing this, even after I changed the Stator and RR?
How can I check this with the multi meter?
*****NEW UPDATE
I just left AutoZone and the guy said I needed battery water.
I asked about the battery acid and he said that I just needed plain water,
So we filled each compartment until it was filled with water and he put it in the charge machine for about 20 minutes(he said that's all it needs)
I went to check it with my multi meter but the batteries were dead.
So I went so start the bike and nothing.
No lights, no turn signals, no horn, no nothing.
I then kick started it and it started(Hooray),
The speedometer lights were dim as usual, but this time my signals wouldn't work.
Is this power/charging issue just me needing a new battery?
Is the fact that it started and ran with no battery power proof that the RR and stator are working?
And if so, why aren't the lights bright and my head/tail lights are still off and why weren't the signals working?
Please help
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 10, 2014 22:04:33 GMT -5
One thing I learned very quick was that there is no bringing these scoot batteries back from the dead . I had a new battery sit for 3 months and when I tried to start my scoot with it it was dead and even after I tried charging it the battery still would not hold a charge . " I've had this happen to 3 different batteries " You probably just need a new one . Run jumper cables from a car battery to your scoot and see what happens . If it starts and all the lights work then the rr should be good " although that won't tell you if the battery ischarging . But atleast you will know everything else is good . And it's not really good to run the scoot without a battery .
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Post by blacraven on Sept 11, 2014 0:05:57 GMT -5
One thing I learned very quick was that there is no bringing these scoot batteries back from the dead . I had a new battery sit for 3 months and when I tried to start my scoot with it it was dead and even after I tried charging it the battery still would not hold a charge . " I've had this happen to 3 different batteries " You probably just need a new one . Run jumper cables from a car battery to your scoot and see what happens . If it starts and all the lights work then the rr should be good " although that won't tell you if the battery ischarging . But atleast you will know everything else is good . And it's not really good to run the scoot without a battery . The lights DONT work, that's why I said I don't know if the new RR is functioning(I also have a new stator). Even when I replaced the RR the headlight or the taillight still wouldn't come on and the bulbs are working. Also dead battery or not, From what I understand, my lights throughout the bike should be functioning and bright because the stator and RR is working. |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 11, 2014 0:08:44 GMT -5
One thing I learned very quick was that there is no bringing these scoot batteries back from the dead . I had a new battery sit for 3 months and when I tried to start my scoot with it it was dead and even after I tried charging it the battery still would not hold a charge . " I've had this happen to 3 different batteries " You probably just need a new one . Run jumper cables from a car battery to your scoot and see what happens . If it starts and all the lights work then the rr should be good " although that won't tell you if the battery ischarging . But atleast you will know everything else is good . And it's not really good to run the scoot without a battery . The lights DONT work, that's why I said I don't know if the new RR is functioning(I also have a new stator). Even when I replaced the RR the headlight or the taillight still wouldn't come on and the bulbs are working. Also dead battery or not, From what I understand, my lights throughout the bike should be functioning and bright because the stator and RR is working. I'm lost at this point. |
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 11, 2014 0:41:44 GMT -5
The lights DONT work, that's why I said I don't know if the new RR is functioning(I also have a new stator). Even when I replaced the RR the headlight or the taillight still wouldn't come on and the bulbs are working. Also dead battery or not, From what I understand, my lights throughout the bike should be functioning and bright because the stator and RR is working. I'm lost at this point. Yeah if you lights are not working you have an AC issue . |
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 11, 2014 0:43:52 GMT -5
Sorry I don't know how I missed what u said about the lights .
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 11, 2014 0:45:34 GMT -5
What type of stator and regulator are u using ? I just went back to get reacquainted with the thread , are all your grounds good ? Also how's the fuse by the battery ?
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Post by blacraven on Sept 11, 2014 1:06:37 GMT -5
What type of stator and regulator are u using ? I just went back to get reacquainted with the thread , are all your grounds good ? Also how's the fuse by the battery ? I have no idea how to tell which one I'm using. I can post the links to the stator and regulator I purchased: RR RR linkStator Stator linkLast I checked my fuse by the battery was good, I'll check it again tomorrow |
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 11, 2014 1:22:22 GMT -5
What type of stator and regulator are u using ? I just went back to get reacquainted with the thread , are all your grounds good ? Also how's the fuse by the battery ? I have no idea how to tell which one I'm using. I can post the links to the stator and regulator I purchased: RR RR linkStator Stator linkLast I checked my fuse by the battery was good, I'll check it again tomorrow I was mainly asking if you ordered the same size stator and the same style regulator as the old ones . I've heard on many buying a new regulator and it being defective . You've probably done this already but I would go through the entire wiring and make sure all the connections are solid , also check the fuse by the battery . |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 11, 2014 4:51:28 GMT -5
I have no idea how to tell which one I'm using. I can post the links to the stator and regulator I purchased: RR RR linkStator Stator linkLast I checked my fuse by the battery was good, I'll check it again tomorrow I was mainly asking if you ordered the same size stator and the same style regulator as the old ones . I've heard on many buying a new regulator and it being defective . You've probably done this already but I would go through the entire wiring and make sure all the connections are solid , also check the fuse by the battery . Yes I made sure everything was an exact match. I went through everything with the multi meter and posted the results. I was told that it was the stator, I then purchased a new stator and the bike started. From there it was running really rough and still had the dim lights problem and the head/tail lights weren't working. From there I purchased the complete 100cc big bore kit, the link to the kit is in the previous pages of this thread. It came with a new carb, #  main jet, performance ignition coil and CDI, air filter, A9 cam, rocker arms and a whole lot more. I also installed a new clutch and bell, 1500rpm spring set, 8g sliders, etc... When I purchased the new RR I thought that was the end and I would be done. But here I am still. I'll get some new batteries for the multi meter tomorrow and check the RR and the fuse by the battery, I have the video tutorial posted earlier in this thread to check the stator/CDI/ignition coil. I saw a video on how to check the RR, But what I really need is a tutorial on how to check all the electrical stuff and all the wires that needs to be working to keep lights and things bright and stuff like that. |
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 11, 2014 21:16:36 GMT -5
I was mainly asking if you ordered the same size stator and the same style regulator as the old ones . I've heard on many buying a new regulator and it being defective . You've probably done this already but I would go through the entire wiring and make sure all the connections are solid , also check the fuse by the battery . Yes I made sure everything was an exact match. I went through everything with the multi meter and posted the results. I was told that it was the stator, I then purchased a new stator and the bike started. From there it was running really rough and still had the dim lights problem and the head/tail lights weren't working. From there I purchased the complete 100cc big bore kit, the link to the kit is in the previous pages of this thread. It came with a new carb, # main jet, performance ignition coil and CDI, air filter, A9 cam, rocker arms and a whole lot more. I also installed a new clutch and bell, 1500rpm spring set, 8g sliders, etc... When I purchased the new RR I thought that was the end and I would be done. But here I am still. I'll get some new batteries for the multi meter tomorrow and check the RR and the fuse by the battery, I have the video tutorial posted earlier in this thread to check the stator/CDI/ignition coil. I saw a video on how to check the RR, But what I really need is a tutorial on how to check all the electrical stuff and all the wires that needs to be working to keep lights and things bright and stuff like that. If I'm not mistaken there is a clip under the right side panel that connects the tail lights , when mine came apart my head lights didn't work . Of course that wouldn't cause the running rough . That issue really sounds like a timing problem or a cdi problem " I know this has already been considered . When it comes to the wiring the only thing you can do is check the connections , check continuity " to make sure connections are being made and that there are no breaks in any wires , and test all components . When it comes to the cdi it may not be completely bad " still work but going bad " and will cause miss firing issues . " even a new cdi maybe bad " happens very often . Sounds as if you may have more then one issue , but when it comes to wiring and electrical components it can be a nightmare . |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 12, 2014 3:11:44 GMT -5
Yes I made sure everything was an exact match. I went through everything with the multi meter and posted the results. I was told that it was the stator, I then purchased a new stator and the bike started. From there it was running really rough and still had the dim lights problem and the head/tail lights weren't working. From there I purchased the complete 100cc big bore kit, the link to the kit is in the previous pages of this thread. It came with a new carb, # main jet, performance ignition coil and CDI, air filter, A9 cam, rocker arms and a whole lot more. I also installed a new clutch and bell, 1500rpm spring set, 8g sliders, etc... When I purchased the new RR I thought that was the end and I would be done. But here I am still. I'll get some new batteries for the multi meter tomorrow and check the RR and the fuse by the battery, I have the video tutorial posted earlier in this thread to check the stator/CDI/ignition coil. I saw a video on how to check the RR, But what I really need is a tutorial on how to check all the electrical stuff and all the wires that needs to be working to keep lights and things bright and stuff like that. If I'm not mistaken there is a clip under the right side panel that connects the tail lights , when mine came apart my head lights didn't work . Of course that wouldn't cause the running rough . That issue really sounds like a timing problem or a cdi problem " I know this has already been considered . When it comes to the wiring the only thing you can do is check the connections , check continuity " to make sure connections are being made and that there are no breaks in any wires , and test all components . When it comes to the cdi it may not be completely bad " still work but going bad " and will cause miss firing issues . " even a new cdi maybe bad " happens very often . Sounds as if you may have more then one issue , but when it comes to wiring and electrical components it can be a nightmare . I'm going to check the wires and that clip under the side panel today. The bike is not running rough now, it was running rough but I fixed that problem. My problem now is the dim lights and no headlight/taillight. With a new stator and RR, it could be a wire or something. But that still doesn't explain why it started up again when I replaced the stator, that would mean that the stator was fully connected to what it needed to be right? So that left the RR, now I have the new one, I just gotta run the checks. So frustrating. Also I have the old CDI to switch back and forth. It starts with both, but it's a very hard start. |
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 12, 2014 13:16:15 GMT -5
If I'm not mistaken there is a clip under the right side panel that connects the tail lights , when mine came apart my head lights didn't work . Of course that wouldn't cause the running rough . That issue really sounds like a timing problem or a cdi problem " I know this has already been considered . When it comes to the wiring the only thing you can do is check the connections , check continuity " to make sure connections are being made and that there are no breaks in any wires , and test all components . When it comes to the cdi it may not be completely bad " still work but going bad " and will cause miss firing issues . " even a new cdi maybe bad " happens very often . Sounds as if you may have more then one issue , but when it comes to wiring and electrical components it can be a nightmare . I'm going to check the wires and that clip under the side panel today. The bike is not running rough now, it was running rough but I fixed that problem. My problem now is the dim lights and no headlight/taillight. With a new stator and RR, it could be a wire or something. But that still doesn't explain why it started up again when I replaced the stator, that would mean that the stator was fully connected to what it needed to be right? So that left the RR, now I have the new one, I just gotta run the checks. So frustrating. Also I have the old CDI to switch back and forth. It starts with both, but it's a very hard start. So you just have hard starts and no rear or front lights . " and dim lights " the dim lights bother me . I would say the stator is ok , I'm leaning towards a short somewhere in the lights . Now that I think of it that clip being unhooked probably wouldn't cause the dim lighting. But it's still good to check . I would keep rechecking the regulator , if there is a short it could cause the regulator to eventually go . |
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Post by blacraven on Sept 14, 2014 6:21:53 GMT -5
I'm going to check the wires and that clip under the side panel today. The bike is not running rough now, it was running rough but I fixed that problem. My problem now is the dim lights and no headlight/taillight. With a new stator and RR, it could be a wire or something. But that still doesn't explain why it started up again when I replaced the stator, that would mean that the stator was fully connected to what it needed to be right? So that left the RR, now I have the new one, I just gotta run the checks. So frustrating. Also I have the old CDI to switch back and forth. It starts with both, but it's a very hard start. So you just have hard starts and no rear or front lights . " and dim lights " the dim lights bother me . I would say the stator is ok , I'm leaning towards a short somewhere in the lights . Now that I think of it that clip being unhooked probably wouldn't cause the dim lighting. But it's still good to check . I would keep rechecking the regulator , if there is a short it could cause the regulator to eventually go . I'm going to go through everything with the multi today |
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Post by greentoker26 on Nov 15, 2014 1:30:12 GMT -5
If your lights are dim it is definitely because your battery is dead or there is a short somewhere and you are losing alot of power some where else like a ground being disconnected. I have had several lights on my scooters go dim but from my experiences it has always been the battery every time, every time I get a new battery lights work perfectly. But I am sorry to hear your upgrades haven't been going so well. I bought a kit with pretty much the same parts and everything went together nice and smooth even used the 8 gram rollers and they work great for me but im a smaller guy at 150lbs but when me and my fiance ride hills just kill us and can't reach more then 4k rpm so thw 8g roller is a little heavier and iove been doing some reading so im thinking about ordering 8 gram sliders and I think that will be the perfect tuning for me I am pretty positive I need around a 7 gram roller weight 8 is great for myself just not when riding doubles, and even by myself if the incline is really steep I will have a little power issue.
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main jet, performance ignition coil and CDI, air filter, A9 cam, rocker arms and a whole lot more.