|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 8, 2014 23:02:36 GMT -5
Looking at the diaphgram is not good enough, it could be leaking by the center where it is held by the plastic ring. You have to test.
And yes you could of messed it up putting it back on.
Also if after riding it for a while at a good clip and the battery is not showing 13+ Volts it is not charging. It could just be you have a bad R/R and its not the Stator.
But since you said you messed with some wiring it could be you have a bad Drain on the Battery.
Alleyoop
|
|
|
|
Post by rockynv on Jul 9, 2014 4:30:18 GMT -5
Blarboose I was talking about a leak-down test where you just charge the battery and then let it sit fully charged taking an initial reading immediately after its done charging and then without even starting or turning anything on leaving the negative battery terminal disconnected waiting an hour and take another reading. If it starts drops to 10 volts in a few hours after being charged with the negative terminal disconnected then you have a defective battery that could be putting such a load on the system it could be part of your problem causing the ignition to drop out at high speed so we would want to eliminate that possibility first. You mention that you have had electrical problems and had to jerry rig stuff to get the lights working so that increases the possibility that we could be looking at an electrical problem or compound issue and not just a fuel issue alone.
|
|
|
|
Post by jerseyboy on Jul 9, 2014 7:38:36 GMT -5
For a leak down test you can use a DVM set to mA and insert the leads in series with the positive wire(with the motor OFF),,if you see more than 1 or 2 mA of drain then you have something shorting current to ground slowly...if the battery continues to die and you have no mA of drain,,then the batt is beat.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 83 
Likes: 0
Joined: Jun 25, 2014 15:23:57 GMT -5
|
Post by blarboose on Jul 14, 2014 22:30:40 GMT -5
Looking at the diaphgram is not good enough, it could be leaking by the center where it is held by the plastic ring. You have to test. And yes you could of messed it up putting it back on. Also if after riding it for a while at a good clip and the battery is not showing 13+ Volts it is not charging. It could just be you have a bad R/R and its not the Stator. But since you said you messed with some wiring it could be you have a bad Drain on the Battery. Alleyoop Ok, the new fuel pump arrived today, I put it in and took a ride. I get LESS stumble at WOT, but its still there, and I still cant do more than 45MPH with just me on the bike. If I add 20 pounds or so in my backpack or the trunk, I can barely make 40 on a flat surface. I never got around to checking the diaphragm, so Im gonna be doing that tomorrow. To be honest, I may just replace it regardless since the bike is almost 8 years old and the diaphragm is probably the one that came with the bike. I tried looking on amazon and such with no luck. Any chance you could show me a link to where to buy one? Also, generally speaking, what else can I do to improve the speed/stumble at WOT issue> |
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 15, 2014 9:40:50 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by jerseyboy on Jul 15, 2014 12:08:49 GMT -5
Its nice that scrappy has a new ACV valve too,,good to know..
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Joined: Jun 25, 2014 15:23:57 GMT -5
|
Post by blarboose on Jul 16, 2014 0:32:03 GMT -5
Anywhere that doesnt require paypal? I hate to be a pain and seem like Im being picky, but I cant use anything that uses paypal. Its a long story and its basically summarized as paypal screwing up, screwing me over, and refusing to fix it, and I can no longer have an account because they auto-deny anything with any of my info on it. |
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Joined: Jun 25, 2014 15:23:57 GMT -5
|
Post by blarboose on Jul 18, 2014 12:27:47 GMT -5
Yes? No? Maybe? I still havent found anywhere else that sells the diaphragms.
|
|
Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
www.ScrappyDogScooters.com
Posts: 111
Likes: 40
Joined: Feb 24, 2013 12:21:31 GMT -5
|
Post by scrappydogscooters on Jul 18, 2014 17:17:53 GMT -5
Try calling Scrappy directly with the number advertised on the website: 702-689-6035
Paypal is not required either on the website or on the phone.
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 18, 2014 17:25:08 GMT -5
Thats a fact, just have your Handy Dandy Charge Card ready and your in business.  Alleyoop |
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Joined: Jun 25, 2014 15:23:57 GMT -5
|
Post by blarboose on Jul 18, 2014 17:58:30 GMT -5
Thats a fact, just have your Handy Dandy Charge Card ready and your in business. Alleyoop uhmmm... kinda confused here. You click on 'add to cart' and it takes you directly to paypal.com. Regardless of what option you pick youre still on paypal's website to check out. Theres a huge "Payments processed by Paypal" logo at the bottom of the screen. Ssssssooooooooooo... in what way does not use paypal?  To be clear, its not just about having a paypal ACCOUNT. I cant use anything related to paypal in any way. If I try and buy something from the link you provided, it declines the transaction because its done through paypal's merchant services, and they wont take my card or anything else connected to me because of the BS I mentioned earlier. |
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 18, 2014 18:01:13 GMT -5
CALL BRO, and they will take your order over the phone and charge card number and verify the card.
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Joined: Jun 25, 2014 15:23:57 GMT -5
|
Post by blarboose on Jul 18, 2014 18:20:49 GMT -5
CALL BRO, and they will take your order over the phone and charge card number and verify the card. DERP. Ok my bad. I got thrown off by the fact that he was saying that paypal isnt required on the phone OR website... Also, on a related note, I dont seem to be having that stumble at WOT anymore. Or rather, its still there sometimes, but its reduced quite a bit. I think the new fuel pump helped, even if it didnt fix the problem entirely. It seems the consensus is that the diaphragm is the most likely culprit here, yes? The other thing Im concerned about is that the bike seems to have little to no power going up hills. It doesnt even have to be a particularly big hill, and my speed might drop from 50MP to 20MPH or less. Looking back at the various suggestions through the thread, it seems like the things that would yield the biggest improvement might be replacing the variator with the 115mm varaitor, or the big bore kit. Which of these would be the easiest to do? Keep in mind Im still pretty new to tinkering around inside an engine, and I would rather avoid getting into the engine itself or any of the major stuff. Cleaning my carb was about the top of my comfort zone for doing this kind of stuff. Im willing to do the research and all that and give bigger stuff a try, but I cant help but be concerned that Ill connect or assemble or align something wrong or make a mistake and end up bricking the whole engine. I figure it may be worth noting, based on what has been said in the thread, that I only weigh 170 pounds, and thats with my jacket and helmet and whatnot on. It seems like similar scooters are moving much heavier guys much faster than mine is moving me, so Im not sure whether thats relevant or not, but I just figured Id state it for the record. It kinda seems like me being fairly small and lightweight should have some effect on this that its not having. |
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Jul 18, 2014 21:26:18 GMT -5
From what you say about the stumble at Wide Open Throttle then it is NOT YOUR DIAPHGRAM. It is just a little LEAN on the top end. Give the Fuel Ratio Screw 1/4 of a turn Counter Clockwise and see if it improves if so give it 1 more 1/4 turn counter clockwise.
Now for the hills you need more RPMS, what is happening is as your going up the HILL your MOTOR RPMS are dropping loosing power to pull the weight. Several ways to tune the CVT one with lighter weights which will require MORE RPMS to get to the same speed as you currently are running at. IF its a 150cc they run good with 11 or 12 gram weights. Another means is to put in heavier Clutch pad springs yet another is a stronger Contra spring. But is all is about keeping the motor in its power band going up the hill and just loosing mph and just a couple of hundred RPMS. Right now from what you say your rpms are way down I mean 20mph you dropped about 2000-3000 rpms from when you started at the bottom of the hill.
Alleyoop
|
|
Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Joined: Jun 25, 2014 15:23:57 GMT -5
|
Post by blarboose on Jul 18, 2014 23:16:33 GMT -5
From what you say about the stumble at Wide Open Throttle then it is NOT YOUR DIAPHGRAM. It is just a little LEAN on the top end. Give the Fuel Ratio Screw 1/4 of a turn Counter Clockwise and see if it improves if so give it 1 more 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Now for the hills you need more RPMS, what is happening is as your going up the HILL your MOTOR RPMS are dropping loosing power to pull the weight. Several ways to tune the CVT one with lighter weights which will require MORE RPMS to get to the same speed as you currently are running at. IF its a 150cc they run good with 11 or 12 gram weights. Another means is to put in heavier Clutch pad springs yet another is a stronger Contra spring. But is all is about keeping the motor in its power band going up the hill and just loosing mph and just a couple of hundred RPMS. Right now from what you say your rpms are way down I mean 20mph you dropped about 2000-3000 rpms from when you started at the bottom of the hill. Alleyoop Im not sure how much richer the fuel mixture can GET, but Ill give it a try. (Its already a full 2 and a half full turns, as in 900 degrees, from where it was when I first started this thread. probably at least approximately 1080 degrees from all the way clockwise) How difficult/involved is it to replace the weights? Im really hesitant to get too too deep into the inner workings of the bike, because I just dont trust myself with it because Im new to all this. I dont wanna tinker too much and mess something up and suddenly its all the money Ive put into the bike down the drain. The strange thing is that thats NOT happening with the RPMS. If I lost 2000 or 3000 RPMs the bike would just shut off. 4000 is the absolute highest it ever goes. It idles at about 2100 or 2200. When Im just cruising along at maybe 20 or 25 MPH or so, it might be at 3000 RPMs. Anything faster than that, and its 4000RPMS. Going up a hill at 20 MPH is ALSO 4000 RPMs. Going 30 MPH is 4000RPMs. Going 45 MPH is 4000 RPMS. Its like those are the only three speeds it will go at; either idle (2200) slow (3000) or fast (4000) its literally never anything else. But what confuses me most is that, well with what you said, Im NOT losing RPMs going up hill, even though I should be.(?) |
|
..BAD TO THE BONE..
