Stock Ehaust Help Needed Pls  By  steelace (Read 2,246 times)

Be carefull not to go cheap on the stud extractor. Even the good ones sometimes snap off and since they are hardened tool steel they do not drill out afterwards.

Some people find that a reverse twist drill bit is a better bet and will sometimes start the broken stud spinning out while you are drilling the hole with the drill running in reverse.

Here is a combo set of reverse bit and easy out available from Sears:
www.sears.com/craftsman-7-pc-drill-out-screw-out-power-extractors/p-00952157000P?prdNo=1

And never forget to double-nut the exhaust studs!

Bump?

[replyingto=geh3333]geh3333[/replyingto]Loctite will burn right off there,,its only good up to 650 degrees,,the head pipe gets a bit hotter.

woah woah woah- I don't know if you have money to burn or are just ambitious for taking on a project but I think it would be A LOT EASIER to simply replace the stud than the head. I know, it probably snapped off near the head but before you spend money on something I dont think you need take a close look at the stud. Completely remove the exhaust first. If you have even a quarter inch of stud exposed you can remove it. Take that plastic off your engine- it's a cooling vent (of sorts) so be sure to replace it when you're done. Next spray a ton of PB Blaster, wd-40 or any other penetrating lube on there. I think PB blaster works best IMHO. Wait 15 minutes. Repeat. Now grab it with some vise grips (don't grab it stright on but come at it from the side so that the teeth on the vise grips can bite it)- really tight- and give it a turn. if it doesnt move don't tear it off, spray some more lube on and wait. It will come out. If the stud is broken off flush with the head THEN you might be better off going the new head route. Once you buy an extractor kit, penetrating lube, etc you might as well have bought a new head. Keep in mind, though, that if you plan on buying a bbk now is the time to do it- and you might also want a head with larger valves to improve performance. Just a thought. Aside from removing the head you shouldn't have to pull the motor to get the stud out. You can probably get under the bike while it's on the stand to do it. I have done a bbk install without pulling the motor but in hindsight it would have been less of a headache just to remove it. =) Edit: if you rethread you shouldn't need to pull the head either- just saying. The only reason I'd pull the head (and hence, the entire motor) is if I was going to replace the head. Remember- if you replace the head- CLEANLINESS is next to godliness. Don't get any dirt in your motor and make sure all the parts you put in are clean and the mating surfaces are free from oil, debris, etc. Keep a bottle of brakeclean on hand to spray off any parts, screws, etc you might drop during reinstall.
Studs with end nuts and a new washer ring can be had on ebay shipped for ~$8. I have some on the way now, I currently have the same problem.

[replyingto=steelace]steelace[/replyingto]Well, I was just saying that removing the head is a he11 of a lot of trouble- probably take you a couple hours if you're not experienced. The simpler alternative would seem to be remove the exhuast (which you'll have to do anyway) to get that flange out of the way and crawl up under it with a flashlight. I'd take a 10 minute job over a 2 hour one anyday... Sure the stud could have backed out. If you're lucky that's what happened. Regardless you might save yourself some work if you take a close look with the flashlight first. Let us know what happens...