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Post by origjoker on May 30, 2013 8:00:03 GMT -5
It's very easy to do....Hardest part is getting your hands in there to make the actual adjustments. Your cooling fan should be hex shaped in the center and allow you to turn it with a socket so you can get the timing marks setup correctly. Takes me about 25 minutes to do mine and that's with removing and replacing the fairing piece.
Good luck!
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Post by jerseyboy on May 30, 2013 8:09:47 GMT -5
Align the the sprocket so the two holes are even with the head plane,,and the third hole is facing straight up,the TD mark on flywheel should be lined up at that point also through the site hole I do believe.
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Post by gitsum on May 30, 2013 12:24:05 GMT -5
totalruckus.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=34470You can open the front access panel to reach the head, but if you remove the four bolts that hold the seat bucket you will have more room. Make sure you eyeball the orientation of the two bolts on the valve cover. They pass through two holes in the cover and actually thread underneath and out of sight into the head. It takes a bit of patience to "feel around" and get the bolts started into the threads properly. Once you get the "feel" of it, it's easy to reassemble. I've checked my valves twice, and the second time took 15 minutes. Instead of using a wrench to turn the engine to TDC, it's easier to remove the spark plug and simply use the kick starter. Three bolt holes on the cam sprocket should line up horizontally with the engine case. There is also a small rubber plug you can remove to line up the "T" mark on the flywheel, either way or both will work fine. Make sure the cam lobe is not pushing the rocker arms depressing the valves to open them. You should be able to "wiggle" the rocker arms a little bit up and down at TDC. 10mm socket or wrench for the valve cover bolts and seat bucket, 9mm for the valve adjustment nut. I got the best results with the intake set at .004" and the exhaust at .005".
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Post by godfella691981 on Jun 2, 2013 14:40:20 GMT -5
My newest update:
Today a friend of mine and I took the valve cover back off, hes a mechanic at a local shop so he knows more about these then I do.
The intake valve was stuck open, we tried to free it with spray and working it, we took the head off and the valve dropped the seat, when we removed the valve the seat is cracked and the valve is bent.
Now my issue is I cant find the right head for this engine, the valve cover has two bolts holding it on. All of the ones I have found have four bolts that go around the outside of it. Were can I find the right head for this engine?
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Post by gitsum on Jun 3, 2013 11:16:18 GMT -5
Wow, that's the first Tomos Nitro 150 I've heard of that's had this kind of problem. Overheating, not changing the oil/running low, or valves way out of spec can cause this type of failure... You want a 157QMJ GY6b engine head. The Tomos Nitro is a generic design, but I would spend a few extra bucks and get a Taiwanese made one, not a Chinese! If you get a non-EGR head, you can simply rip out the extra hoses, valve and canister without blocking off the EGR port like I had to. Not as easy to find as a standard GY6, but GY6b heads are available. here's one: get2itparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=115150_1025_108150_108250&products_id=634422ScrappyDogScooters.com has a 4-valve version, and Tomos USA has a replacement head  |
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Post by godfella691981 on Jun 10, 2013 0:58:25 GMT -5
[replyingto=gitsum]gitsum[/replyingto]gitsum> I've always done all the normal maintenance myself, I changed all the factory oil at around 300 miles. I do normal oil changes about every 2000 miles, I've always used 10w 40 full synthetic oil in the engine. I change the gearbox oil after every 2 oil changes, I have also had an Iridium plug in the engine since I took out the stock one at about 1000 miles. The issue for me was not knowing that I had to adjust the valve clearance after so many miles...It was an expensive lesson to learn but once I get it up and running again I will be on top of that. BTW thanks for the link to that part. I called TOMOS USA and a lot of their parts are unavailable for a couple months because they are moving a warehouse. The part from them was gonna cost $159.00 for complete head with valves and springs. I ended up finding the right head from www.charmcityscooters.com, I used the TOMOS part number given to me by the local dealer to look it up but it doesn't have valves and springs installed, so I ordered it, along with an intake valve and head gasket for around $77 with shipping. That's a better deal then the local dealer, they were going to charge me $  for the three parts, plus it would have cost me gas money to make the 50 mile round trip. Once I get the parts in I will post an update here how things went once I get everything installed. |
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Post by domindart on Jun 10, 2013 1:27:46 GMT -5
So you cracked the head due to not adjusting the valves??
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 10, 2013 12:27:15 GMT -5
Yep, a little better quality does not mean every piece is quailty on these chinese scoots. Ususally the better quality goes into the way the panels are fit to make them look really good and less rattling and things falling off but not so much the motors and the electrics as every seems to think. The problem is the RIDER, they think it is a turn key ride never having to do maintence and will run forever. When you notice the scoot is not starting up easy anymore or not running right take an hour out of your time and check things out. Check the Plug, Fuel Flow from the Petcock or Fuel pump, Fuel Filter, Air Leaks, Dirty or oil clogged Air Filter, and the Valves. If you don't check things it will get worst and you are asking to be stranded and or ruining the motor and it will cost you more.
Alleyoop
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Post by gitsum on Jun 10, 2013 13:11:40 GMT -5
If you have a Honda or a BMW scooter and fail to do critical maintenance, it's going to break something. Motorcycle and scooter engines are not like car engines that can make it 100,000 miles or more with oil changes and an occasional air filter. Almost all cars have hydraulically adjusted valves, most scooter/motorcycle engines don't.
Adjust the valves or suffer the consequences. If the OP never had a valve adjustment on an air-cooled motor with screw type adjusters and it lasted 5200 miles, that's a testament to the durability of the engine. Heck, my Honda CBR250R has shim over bucket type valves and is water-cooled, it has a 6000 mile recommended valve adjustment interval. Just from breaking it in hard, the valves were getting pretty far off at the 600 mile break-in service.
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for the three parts, plus it would have cost me gas money to make the 50 mile round trip.
..BAD TO THE BONE..