(Taotao CY50-T3) Awkward vibration issue...  By  metrodee (Read 6,331 times)

The tires are not balanced . Get them balanced like I did and tada a smooth ride

My CY50-T3 also vibrates in 2 different ways, the front tire and sometimes the drive belt. So far after three years I am use to it. Any ways I am due to change tires and belt.

[replyingto=metrodee]metrodee[/replyingto]Somewhere on youtube there is a vid on the CY50-T3 where a bunch of them came with warped rims....wish I could find it again. Anyway the rims were warped and you could see them wobble in the vid. Apparently the rims are cast..and the company being in a rush to assemble and fill orders...removed them from the mold too soon causing warpage.

[replyingto=millsc]millsc[/replyingto]Yup..that's Shop...it's 40 mins from me and I know the guy well. He had a better vid though. They did send him new rims and explained to him they were removed from the mold too soon and warped. He also had some cheaper Scoots with steel wheels...where the 3 post center piece was welded in so crooked...you didn't even need to spin the wheel to see it. Just sitting on the center stand you could see the rims were tilted to the side. This model here.. www.scooterdepot.us/50cc-stylish-gas-motor-scooters-disc-brake-p-739-273.html

Excessive belt vibration can destroy the clutch and the bearings on the input shaft of the final drive case along with cause the muffler along with rear body/frame components to fracture.

Many times this vibration can occur after a few thousand miles when you approach the most common constant speed you ride at as the belt will start jumping in and out of the slight depression that will develope on the drive faces at that speed.

Parts if you let it go can cost you well over $200 including the new muffler, variator, clutch, bearings, seals, gaskets and belt. If you pay a mechanic to take care of it then you are looking at potentialy a $500 or greater expense to put it all straight.

This is due to a flaw in the GY6 design in that there is no bearing on the CVT cover to support the outer end of the clutch shaft so that once the vibration occurs a lot of force is put on the two bearings spaced about 2 inches apart inside the gear case which then get sloppy increasing the level of vibration until it gets to the level that hard parts start to fracture and fall apart.

This will be the root cause of many muffler or header pipe failures. Folks will throw a lot of effort trying to resolve the symptom of the failed muffler or rear fender comming off and bolts coming loose when it is really the excess belt vibration and bearing failure in progress that is behind it all.

I have had great luck with my t3 till raining days started I rode all winter in 12 degree weather some times and on rainy days I have starting issues I think I have a air leak between Carb and intake manifold letting g moisture in

If you have a shock absorber on the muffler side of the bike then you neet to remove the muffler, if rear disk brake you now need to unmount the caliper without disconnecting the brake hoses and they put the caliper aside without stressing the brake lines or squeezing the brake levers until everything is put back together. Now remove the axel nut, lower shock mount and the right side swing arm extension keeping track of the order of the retainers, cups, seals and washers. Then you can usually swing the shock absorber out of the way and slide the rear tire off the axle shaft. If you have a rear drum brake then you skip removing the caliper and loosen the adjuster on the brake cable that is just above the top of the clutch on the CVT side of the bike before trying to slide the wheel off. On a GY6 with a single shock in the back you wont have a swing arm extension or a disk brake to deal with so you eliminate those steps.