|
Post by rockynv on Apr 30, 2017 16:37:39 GMT -5
H-1 500 Tripple, Fast but a rickety frame Snit Box. My 71&1/2 Drag Racer. They earned the Widow Maker moniker with those rickety frames especially on the early ones.
|
|
|
Post by w650 on Apr 30, 2017 17:23:35 GMT -5
The 1974 H1 500E had an improved frame with hints drawn from the 750. It was ungodly fast and handled well with the better tires and shocks I installed as Kevin Cameron noted in a recent article.
|
|
|
Post by cyborg55 on Apr 30, 2017 18:05:53 GMT -5
That there is a seriously worn out chain and sprocket set,,,,down right dangerous,,,I've never encountered anything like that,,,and in my opinion the guy that did the video is a moron
|
|
|
Post by dollartwentyfive on Apr 30, 2017 18:54:03 GMT -5
it certainly seems that the CVT tranny wins in the maintainance dept.
i need to make a correction here. i mentioned earlier you don't need any tools to replace a CVT belt if the CVT didn't have a cover. that's just plain wrong. you need the tools to remove the variator. not only do you need the socket for the crank nut, but you also nee a "tool" to hold the variator. i read an interesting solution somewhere, and it went like this: remove the sparkplug. get a 2 or 3 foot piece of rope. start stuffing it into the plug hole. this will prevent the piston from going past TCD. i've never tried this, so i can't vouch for if it works. for example, can this bend the valve stems?
|
|
|
Post by rockynv on May 1, 2017 4:14:42 GMT -5
Some use that method however it could introduce dirt into the cylinder and if the engine spins enough could bend the valves however the issue I have is that it can distort some of the more delicate piston tops and if not packed evenly wedge the piston and an angle damaging the cylinder wall. Odd how some who do this drop a valve or prematurely have to replace a piston/rings/cylinder or at the least have to start adding more oil between oil changes to the bike than they did before.
|
|
|
Post by pistonguy on May 1, 2017 8:27:53 GMT -5
it certainly seems that the CVT tranny wins in the maintainance dept. i need to make a correction here. i mentioned earlier you don't need any tools to replace a CVT belt if the CVT didn't have a cover. that's just plain wrong. you need the tools to remove the variator. not only do you need the socket for the crank nut, but you also nee a "tool" to hold the variator. i read an interesting solution somewhere, and it went like this: remove the sparkplug. get a 2 or 3 foot piece of rope. start stuffing it into the plug hole. this will prevent the piston from going past TCD. i've never tried this, so i can't vouch for if it works. for example, can this bend the valve stems? I have done all my wrenching on my Vari and Clutch with a inexpensive Electric Impact and correct socket one of the from Harbor Freight, its like $39 some dollars and then bring the 20% off coupons and your done. Never need anything but my hand and impact to hold the Vari or Hold the clutch together while changing springs. Ok and my Harbour freight impact picture is not uploading.
|
|
|
Post by pistonguy on May 1, 2017 8:44:13 GMT -5
it certainly seems that the CVT tranny wins in the maintainance dept. i need to make a correction here. i mentioned earlier you don't need any tools to replace a CVT belt if the CVT didn't have a cover. that's just plain wrong. you need the tools to remove the variator. not only do you need the socket for the crank nut, but you also nee a "tool" to hold the variator. i read an interesting solution somewhere, and it went like this: remove the sparkplug. get a 2 or 3 foot piece of rope. start stuffing it into the plug hole. this will prevent the piston from going past TCD. i've never tried this, so i can't vouch for if it works. for example, can this bend the valve stems? First have you ever owned a MC? old school non o ring chain and later model o ring chain? Owning both and having spent considerable time in the tropics on Scooter the Vari is in a constant state of destruct, in the tropics during hurricane season (June - Nov) it may rain several times a day, the scooter is going thru lots of water as most owners the Scoot is the only means of transportation, at darn near sea level the streets flood daily and ya have to ride thru with water half way up or more on the motor. Ive pushed water that came over the foot pad. if ya go by a fix it Scooter store, you will see piles of variators. The CVT cover has a useless gasket and is vented out the front and rear and Fills up with a nice mixture sea water with lots of sand, they eats themselves alive compared to a conventional chain and sprocket. Those who ride duel sports with a Milk crate off the front and rear have very little issues compared to scooter with a CVT All anyone has to do is visit the Scooter and mc fix it shops and look which one has the larges pile of junk parts, the Scooter wins that one every time. Ok trying to upload images of my Sliders that rolled over with big slits in them, my rollers that quickly flat spot, my fancy NCY, Vari. with the special coating that comes off into powder in short order. I've lost another 4 or 5 mph so its time again to get into the vary. My Scoot is kept impeccably clean and has never been on a rainy or dirt road in its life. Ill just post links to my CVt threads if I can't get the pics uploaded later.
|
|
|
Post by pistonguy on May 1, 2017 8:47:38 GMT -5
The 1974 H1 500E had an improved frame with hints drawn from the 750. It was ungodly fast and handled well with the better tires and shocks I installed as Kevin Cameron noted in a recent article. Ya man I was wrenching for Rick Case Honda and Kawasaki in the mid to late seventies and we had a room full of Death Bikes as we called them. H-1 were second to the H-2's and the first group of KZ1300's we sold were all Death Bikes. Throw in a CBX or two. My H-1 was fast in a straight line but my RD-350 would destroy it on a Road Race track.
|
|
|
Post by pistonguy on May 1, 2017 20:53:00 GMT -5
Some use that method however it could introduce dirt into the cylinder and if the engine spins enough could bend the valves however the issue I have is that it can distort some of the more delicate piston tops and if not packed evenly wedge the piston and an angle damaging the cylinder wall. Odd how some who do this drop a valve or prematurely have to replace a piston/rings/cylinder or at the least have to start adding more oil between oil changes to the bike than they did before. Huhh aa wha? I sure haven't and won't see everything in my lifetime and Professionally analyzed thousands of piston failures you would have to put steel wire in the cylinder and put a 36" 1/2 drive breaker bar on the engine to distort the Piston Deck. they simply are not that fragile. the Top ring on these is Way down and your gunna have to do the above to Collapse the Top Ring Land onto the Ring. Im not at my home local to measure the top ring down on my 61mm piston at the moment but my CRF250R 14:1-1 Top ring is down .200" I would have to put it on the bench and beat it with a hammer to knock that top ring land down onto the top ring. Were dealing with .002" piston to cylinder clearance or with a good piston .0015" or .038mm there just isn't that much clearance that your going to cock the piston sideways and hurt the bore. Those Scooter piston Decks are Boat Anchor thick, I could put a big shot of nitrous on it without caving the Deck or Dome. I call bunk on this one bro. As usual my pics are not uploading so here is a link to some piston product. www.dansgaragetalk.com/topic/254-61mm-pistons-taida-cast-vs-ncy-cast-vs-taida-forged-high-comp/?page=1Heres another with some good close up pics. www.dansgaragetalk.com/topic/497-forged-piston/#comment-3974
|
|
|
Post by dollartwentyfive on May 2, 2017 2:41:33 GMT -5
First have you ever owned a MC? my chinese 250 is a MC, so yes, i own a MC. if you are talking about a manual shift chain drive type of MC, no, and i doubt if i ever will. the question is, is this a symptom of poor design or a symptom of inferior quality. my guess is it's the inferior quality of the parts. this is a good example of poor design. i believe making the CVT a part of the carb intake will eliminate this type of problem. again, is this a symptom of poor quality, or poor design, or maybe even poor maintenance. flat spots on rollers do seem to be a problem, albeit a minor one. my scooter didn't like moisture, at all. if it even smelled like rain my scooter wouldn't start. the electrics was the cause before i revamped the electrics, even the moisture thrown up by the tires (no matter how minor) would kill the engine.
|
|
|
Post by rockynv on May 2, 2017 3:46:55 GMT -5
Aluminum stock pistons are too fragile to me and the chance of cocking them too great. Just think through what happens on a used engine if you unevenly stuff a rope inside a spark plug hole and it cranks up.. Its going to cock off kilter and the top ring is going to contact the ridge in the cylinder wall and potentially distort the ring on the high side and already be scraping the top ring down making a small score in the cylinder wall on the opposite side. If the piston top has any damage from running lean for any amount of time which on a 50 to 150cc GY6 with a vacuum fuel pump is pretty likely the chance of finishing the job and pushing it to complete failure or closer to it is too great. Its simply bad form to stuff things down the spark plug hole to leverage a piston to block the crank unless you really do not care about the engine. I you just need to get er done for one race or to bug out during a south seas flooding event thats one thing but on something you are expecting to keep running for the next 50,000 to 100,000 miles with few repairs I won't ever reccomend it (remember that I am looking at things as a Piaggio owner when I state these milages). The proper tools to do it right are not very expensive and well worth it. Its is a cheat or a gamble at best which you do at your own risk and don't reccomend to others without stating the risks.
|
|
|
Post by dollartwentyfive on May 2, 2017 9:04:08 GMT -5
Its is a cheat or a gamble at best which you do at your own risk and don't reccomend to others without stating the risks. it just seems obvious to me that when you squish a rope in your firing chamber, and the rope gets hung around the valves, yeah, i suppose it could get bad. my variator had little fins around the outer circumference which made it pretty easy to fashion a "door stop" type of tool out of a hard piece of rubber. also, i used to hear about putting "thread locker" on bolts and such. i have my doubts about this with aluminum engines. the gaskets used on these scoots seems to be easily removed. in this respect, an aluminum engine requires more TLC than the same sized steel one.
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on May 2, 2017 12:43:59 GMT -5
it certainly seems that the CVT tranny wins in the maintainance dept. i need to make a correction here. i mentioned earlier you don't need any tools to replace a CVT belt if the CVT didn't have a cover. that's just plain wrong. you need the tools to remove the variator. not only do you need the socket for the crank nut, but you also nee a "tool" to hold the variator. i read an interesting solution somewhere, and it went like this: remove the sparkplug. get a 2 or 3 foot piece of rope. start stuffing it into the plug hole. this will prevent the piston from going past TCD. i've never tried this, so i can't vouch for if it works. for example, can this bend the valve stems? First have you ever owned a MC? old school non o ring chain and later model o ring chain? Owning both and having spent considerable time in the tropics on Scooter the Vari is in a constant state of destruct, in the tropics during hurricane season (June - Nov) it may rain several times a day, the scooter is going thru lots of water as most owners the Scoot is the only means of transportation, at darn near sea level the streets flood daily and ya have to ride thru with water half way up or more on the motor. Ive pushed water that came over the foot pad. if ya go by a fix it Scooter store, you will see piles of variators. The CVT cover has a useless gasket and is vented out the front and rear and Fills up with a nice mixture sea water with lots of sand, they eats themselves alive compared to a conventional chain and sprocket. Those who ride duel sports with a Milk crate off the front and rear have very little issues compared to scooter with a CVT All anyone has to do is visit the Scooter and mc fix it shops and look which one has the larges pile of junk parts, the Scooter wins that one every time. Ok trying to upload images of my Sliders that rolled over with big slits in them, my rollers that quickly flat spot, my fancy NCY, Vari. with the special coating that comes off into powder in short order. I've lost another 4 or 5 mph so its time again to get into the vary. My Scoot is kept impeccably clean and has never been on a rainy or dirt road in its life. Ill just post links to my CVt threads if I can't get the pics uploaded later. Yep, when it rains it pours, my scooter stays at home on heavy rainy days, I have been stranded a couple of times because water makes it way through the carburettor and drowns the scooter, it is a pain in the rear to start it after that happens, don't have that problem on my dual sport.
|
|
|
Post by pistonguy on May 2, 2017 19:30:19 GMT -5
First have you ever owned a MC? my chinese 250 is a MC, so yes, i own a MC. if you are talking about a manual shift chain drive type of MC, no, and i doubt if i ever will. the question is, is this a symptom of poor design or a symptom of inferior quality. my guess is it's the inferior quality of the parts. this is a good example of poor design. i believe making the CVT a part of the carb intake will eliminate this type of problem. again, is this a symptom of poor quality, or poor design, or maybe even poor maintenance. flat spots on rollers do seem to be a problem, albeit a minor one. my scooter didn't like moisture, at all. if it even smelled like rain my scooter wouldn't start. the electrics was the cause before i revamped the electrics, even the moisture thrown up by the tires (no matter how minor) would kill the engine. My Title states MC, My Registration States MC and my Plate States MC but in the end its a Scooter and so is yours, lets Not get in a Silly/Discussion of the Definition of what a True MC is and a Scooter is. It is what it is...... I love my Scooter and MC for what they are.
|
|
|
Post by pistonguy on May 2, 2017 19:49:25 GMT -5
Aluminum stock pistons are too fragile to me and the chance of cocking them too great. Just think through what happens on a used engine if you unevenly stuff a rope inside a spark plug hole and it cranks up.. Its going to cock off kilter and the top ring is going to contact the ridge in the cylinder wall and potentially distort the ring on the high side and already be scraping the top ring down making a small score in the cylinder wall on the opposite side. If the piston top has any damage from running lean for any amount of time which on a 50 to 150cc GY6 with a vacuum fuel pump is pretty likely the chance of finishing the job and pushing it to complete failure or closer to it is too great. Its simply bad form to stuff things down the spark plug hole to leverage a piston to block the crank unless you really do not care about the engine. I you just need to get er done for one race or to bug out during a south seas flooding event thats one thing but on something you are expecting to keep running for the next 50,000 to 100,000 miles with few repairs I won't ever reccomend it (remember that I am looking at things as a Piaggio owner when I state these milages). The proper tools to do it right are not very expensive and well worth it. Its is a cheat or a gamble at best which you do at your own risk and don't reccomend to others without stating the risks. Im not advocating in any way shape or form of stuffing rope down a cylinder, there are several methods to get the job done. oil filter wrench, heck even your Belt around your waste wrapped around the Vari or flywheel will get it done. and as I stated a cheap Harbor freight Electric impact with a coupon is under $39. As far as I'm concerned your blowing theory of Fragile Stock Cast Pistons and have had 0 experience in a Piston cock off kilter, There Boat Anchors, The 50 or 150 CV carb is so forgiving I have Never seen one go lean to the point that is has taken the Temper out of the Piston or a Seizure and caused the smack your referring to.... what you running .250" piston to wall to clock a piston off kilter? utter bunk bro Your talking Smack with 0 hands on experience in what your referring to....
|
|