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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 7, 2015 7:11:17 GMT -5
Geh is 100% correct on this,,a 150 with a BBK will not see much increase in power unless you upgrade air fuel delivery and better flow using higher lift cam, big port heads,UNI,free flow exhaust. My stock 150 with UNI,up jet,and free flow exhaust ran better than a scooter with just a BBK and no extra parts added for free flow and fuel.There is no replacement for displacement thats true,,but if you dont have the added air/fuel and flow its not worth doing a BBK IMO...and there is no better mod than a pipe and upjet for any motor.My stock 150 with pipe and jet kit would easily do 60 mph.Now with the gears and BBK Im hoping to maybe see 70. My Taiwan BBK is starting to really wake up good now with about 100 miles on it,,just a little twist of the throttle and she is doing 50 MPH no sweat,,i cant wait to see top speed in a few weeks on GPS,,i will keep you guys and girls posted. Tom from Jersey
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 7, 2015 6:57:58 GMT -5
Went for yet another 30 mile ride,,the new Taiwan BBK seems to be getting more powerful and smoother with every mile,,Im using rotella synthetic to break it in too,,its all I had,I might drop that oil out today and use castrol dino for a few hundred miles,,then switch to castrol synthetic,,I know a guy who put over 30K miles on a chinese GY6 using castrol synthetic.Oh yeah,,I put a new throttle housing on too,,GY6 Racing Team sent me a nice two bolt housing,,great upgrade too what was on there..have those Dr.Pulley slides Im going to put in soon too..
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 6, 2015 8:24:13 GMT -5
If you dont have the intake and exhaust sides upgraded to match and dump more fuel and air you wont notice much if anything at all by just slapping a big port head on..more air/fuel in,,more air/exhaust out=better performance
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 2, 2015 13:01:09 GMT -5
Just got back from a 35 mile ride,,the BBK seems to be breaking in great,,I hammered on it twice and brought it up to 60 MPH 7K RPM,,runs great,,still see the cagers have not changed,,they need to learn to stay on their own side of the road.
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Post by jerseyboy on Apr 1, 2015 6:25:40 GMT -5
Do these things not have any parking/emergency brake? Or gears? Or was there some other reason stupidhead thought his best action was remaining inside the vehicle that was on fire? >'Kat He could have killed people also when he let it roll back down the hill,,I would have left it there to burn,,then people could have cleared out from the bottom in case it went for a ride...
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Post by jerseyboy on Mar 31, 2015 20:26:56 GMT -5
Man,,Im surprised he didnt roll back over and get all beat up...that was a nightmare,,next time he will double check his fuel lines.
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Post by jerseyboy on Mar 31, 2015 20:23:18 GMT -5
I just run a NGK CR7HIX in my 150,I use it all spring,summer and fall with no problems,,if you can get Iridium they last so much longer...if your scooter runs fine with the after you switch to the 7 series just keep an eye on how it runs,,if it runs too hot switch back to the 8,,I think you will be fine with a 7.
Too answer your question is hard,,every motor runs a little different,,if you where going to up jet and do a performance pipe,,more fuel would be dumping into the combustion chamber so a 7 might be the way to go,,a little hotter spark helps ignite that air/fuel just a bit faster.
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Post by jerseyboy on Mar 31, 2015 6:21:50 GMT -5
The 7hsa is a slightly hotter plug than the cr8e I believe,,atleast thats the way all other NGK plugs are rated,,if the outside temp gets really cold or you have trouble burning all the fuel efficiently you can stay with a hotter burning plug.Guess they want hotter for break in to help set the rings,,Im not sure why,,a motor will run hotter before its broke in as it is,,not really necessary to run a hot plug during break in IMO.
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wiring pins
by: jerseyboy - Mar 29, 2015 19:39:08 GMT -5
Post by jerseyboy on Mar 29, 2015 19:39:08 GMT -5
I think a complete new harness is pretty cheap also if you run into more problems..
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Post by jerseyboy on Mar 29, 2015 17:17:33 GMT -5
You just prove that major mechanical failure is rare, and if you don't know there's a problem there's no consequence whatsoever! Haha, jk, but yeah that's scary. (Correction, the engine case and muffler were holding the swingarm in place) Yeah! Good thing I didn't know about it or I might have wrecked! HAHAHA! I better check mine,,hahahaha!!!
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Post by jerseyboy on Mar 27, 2015 22:10:13 GMT -5
If your anywhere around Jersey I will weld it up for you for free...and guarantee it wont crack in the same spot again. ... or your money back. If it cracks again scooter,,I will let him rip my BBK scoot around town for an hour,,now thats a good deal
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Post by jerseyboy on Mar 27, 2015 22:07:44 GMT -5
Im looking for a decent set of ear buds that would fit under my helmet so I can listen to my Zune player while riding,,anybody have any ideas? No I don't want speakers on my scoot...lol
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Post by jerseyboy on Mar 27, 2015 18:34:19 GMT -5
If your anywhere around Jersey I will weld it up for you for free...and guarantee it wont crack in the same spot again.
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Post by jerseyboy on Mar 27, 2015 6:53:18 GMT -5
A few years ago I bought a battery tender. Its a shumacher 1.5 amp charger that says speed charge on it. I recently found that it is a terrible charger for these scoot batteries . I had my new battery sitting for over a week after charging it so I decided to throw it on the charger for a little while . after a couple hr's I noticed the battery built up enough pressure inside to bubble up the top of the seal " at each opening of the cells " the pressure subsided after having it off the charger for awhile . I bought it at Walmart for $19 , again it is a Schumacher battery tender . I figured it was OK but I guess not. Actually it says "maintainer " not tender. But it is not a good maintainer for these batteries. I figured it would stop charging once charged then pick back up as the battery looses its charge , but it seems to constantly hit it with the 1.5 amps even after charged. I gotta check what mine says on it Geh,,think its says tender,,it will only turn on if my battery drops voltage,,like if I go out there and turn the key on then hit the brakes,,it will come on and stay on until I shut the key off,,then it will turn off in a few seconds..BTW I did not bring my battery in the house this Winter and it was very cold,,as far as I know its still in great shape cause the light is green out there and it cranks hard.Think I paid around $40 for mine.
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Post by jerseyboy on Mar 26, 2015 11:51:04 GMT -5
If he is going to weld it you should be fine,,but make sure to remove any rubber or plastic parts off,,they will melt if not. Take those bushings out first.
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