Post by Abscooters on Dec 19, 2013 14:53:18 GMT -5
Alright folks, I'm stuck. Thought I could do anything, well something ain't jiving.
Got a customer who brought his bike in a CF-Moto E-charm 150 with a Dead ECU unit. These Units are in the $600 range just for the part and if it is the Regulator which fried it, can be looking at $800 just parts. Customer did not want to spend that dough on this bike so, I said lets dump the ECU and fuel injection and go to a carb/cdi set-up. Thought it would be a slam dunk, wrong----
Got everything hooked up, went with a DC cdi right off the battery, tied into the pulse trigger and I got spark, constant spark, not timed spark. So it sparks if the flywheel is moving at all, like the whole time during the intake stroke. Can't get more than a sputter or 2 out of it. Tried GY6 DC cdi, CN250 DC CDI, with stock coil, GY6 coil, CN250 coil, all combinations. Tried wiring identical to the SYM HD-200, which is the same bike just no ECU. What am I missing?
Is the pulse trigger is different for a ECU system, or is the Sym CDI got some kind of limiter in it? Don't know, going nuts. Just hate tearing into the motor to replace that trigger to find-out it is something else. Anyone deal with an constant spark situation?
Ready to give the bike back to the customer unfinished, but I really want this thing to work.
Post by Abscooters on Nov 13, 2013 19:52:35 GMT -5
Sta-Bil is garbage, I get a fair amount of service work in the spring from folks that use sta-bil. I used to recommend it until I saw the spring carbs that used it during a hard winter.
I'm with Jim and Lar-ball, Sea-foam is where it is at. Farmers have been using it for years. A cap full in a scooter tank does wonders for the fuel system any time of year.
I have not had gas go bad in the can over the winter, but in small quantities in tight spaces mixed with aeration like what is present in the carb, it can gum up in weeks without an additive.
Another thing some of the motorcycle shops do is drain the gas and winterize it with racing fuel, that stuff doesn't break down like blended gasolines do. Get some awesome horsepower for that first Spring ride too
Post by Abscooters on Oct 15, 2013 14:38:10 GMT -5
I know it is rear disc, but what size is the drum that is on the wheel. There are 2 different sizes of wheel drums (actually 3 but one is really rare) even on disc brake wheels. The one with smaller brake drum ~ 106mm wheel is only carried by a couple of vendors in the long case. The larger drum ~126mm is much more common.
You can just cut off the lower brake shoe pin, and if the drive shaft is the shorter one, just replace it with the longer drive shaft.
Post by Abscooters on Jun 26, 2013 12:29:01 GMT -5
Thanks for the Kudos DJ.
And Lykos, I'm sorry if you had a bad experience with us. I don't show that you ordered brake calipers, but I see an order for a clutch spring and a couple items that took 6 days to get to you and that 6 days did span over a weekend.
Yes we have a no return policy, and the simple reason is we do not have the staff to handle it, as we are not a high volume outfit. Many people order online and order the wrong item or order something that does not fix the problem and want our parts bins to be their diagnostic tools or to see if something is the right fit. Hard to honestly sell something as new when it has been sold once already.
We strive to offer the highest customer service and thank you both for buying from us. ;D
Post by Abscooters on Apr 18, 2013 16:13:30 GMT -5
It is not a rubber hose, it is a steel tube that connects the exhaust port to the pair valve. Usually all steel (S shaped) to the pair valve on the valve cover but sometimes it is remote mounted pair valve and there is a heat resistant hose connected to the steel tube attached to the exhaust port.
millsc, you are talking about the vent hose at the top of the valve cover, and yes that must not be blocked or kinked.
And yes block off all vacuum lines that go to that emissions crap when removing it.
Post by Abscooters on Apr 18, 2013 12:11:22 GMT -5
Just drill a hole big enough right in the center of the bolt to make the bolt head pop off. Once you take the cover off you will be able to remove it with your fingers (usually). It is usually the bind between the bolt head (over torqued) and the threads that has it stuck, not the threads itself.
Last Edit: Apr 18, 2013 12:11:57 GMT -5 by Abscooters