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Post by geh3333 on Jun 25, 2015 20:59:16 GMT -5
just got back in from a 15 minute ride with a 38 pilot and 125 jet. set the idle to 1800ish then backed the screw out, tightened it, but no change until it dropped from being too lean. took the screw back out to about 2.5 turns again and drove it a bit, it still wants to cut off when i give it a sharp twist on the throttle when its warm, then not start for a few minutes and will onl start if i drop the idle screw back to where it would idle at 700-800rpm. it may not matter but i have an a9 cam also, apparently that designation can mean a lot of things, this one was roughly double the lift and a bit more duration than stock. also, are the pilot jets numbered backwards from main? my sizes were 42<40<38<35, smallest to largest holes. the stock ones were smaller than the 42. i may switch it back out with a 40 or 42 but it didn't seem to change anything anyway. I'll let it idle tonight and check the plug. also, could overheating cause this symptom? my fan shroud intake hole is missing the grate thing, might not be pressurizing the air properly to cool everything but I'm pretty sure that's secondary to the carb being wrong. At what rpm does the scoot clutch seem to engage ? The cam should have no bearing on what rpm you idle at. Its strange how you can get the scoot to idle so low. I wonder if your rpm gage is off " that's why I asked at what rpm the clutch seems to engage ". I don't see the pilot jet needing to be any larger. Have you checked the float level ? When your scoot acts up , shut it down quick , do not try to start it again. Open the drain on the carb bowl and see if any gas comes out. You may be running out of gas if the float is not set right. So give it throttle and when it sputters shut the scoot down quick. Then check the bowl. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 25, 2015 20:31:09 GMT -5
I did buy a new chain tensioner but it did not come with the center bolt :/, time to go to home depot :-) Dont forget to get an "O" ring to make a good seal. If they dont have any presumably you could use some teflon plumbers tape to seal it in a pinch... I've never seen a tensioner with an o ring . the only gasket is between the tensioner assembly and the engine case. The center bolt just screws in. Mine is stripped and it never leaked once. I just barely tighten it down . I've even had the center bolt out before while the engine was idling and it doesn't blow any oil. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 25, 2015 20:24:22 GMT -5
You could have found that tripletree on ebay, but that does you no good now. Roketa, the brand, is just the plastic farings. The frames, and engine parts are all shared by various "GY6" models. There are variations, but all you need to do is remove and measure your current one then find the same one. Scrappy sells them and I know a lot of people order a lot from scrappydogs without any issues and always hear about how scrappy only has high quality stuff. I can't verify that scrappy sells nothing but high quality parts , but I can say that I do not like the way they do some of their builds. They tend to use some parts that you can only get through them or almost impossible to find ,or they will use a different stly part that can also be a pain for the buyer if a problem occurs. which as a business its smart , but for the buyer it can be a pain. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 25, 2015 20:08:20 GMT -5
So lately the past few days when I start the scoot after sitting for a while till its cold it will make a popping noise when starting, usually a couple pops then starts right up just fine. Then when warm it does not pop on starts. Runs fine, no notice in performance loss or anything else funny. Not sure how to go about tackling this weird issue. So its popping as its turning over ? Or after it starts ? Anyway you can take video of it ? I'm going to say you are running lean . you could be sucking in air somewhere causing this issue. I had a vacuum leak cause the exact same issue . on cold startups the engine would pop or backfire. But after warmup the issue stops. It would startup just fine. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 25, 2015 20:00:51 GMT -5
ricardo- i thought so too, but the carb is new and I've always had a filter on it. how should i check if it's clogged? geh- i thought that same thing about it idling so low. i was kind of proud of the little thing for doing it really. the tach is kind of slow on mine and i assume accuracy is relative but I'll get it to 2k then tune. i just got a set of slow jets in today, i think 32-45, should i try upping that first and going back to the 125 main before i warm it up? thank you again for the help guys, your patience and knowledge is greatly appreciated. I do suggest going back to the 125 . if you want to up the pilot jet , just go up to your next closest size. Its usually not necessary to up the pilot when only switching to a uni and a free flow exhaust. Most mainly have to up the main jet. But all setups are different so you will have to make that decision. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 25, 2015 19:56:43 GMT -5
It is impossible to find the gasket locally, I'll try with the gasket material and see how it works until I can find a replacement gasket. Thanks all for the help.  If you need to make a gasket , what u should do is buy a sheet of gasket paper. The cork kind. Then you can trace and cut out a new gasket that will last . |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 25, 2015 16:53:30 GMT -5
wow, I was way low. I get off work at 6, I'll drive it around and try tuning it that way. Thank you for pointing me in a direction man. will it not be harder to start with the screw set to idle at 1700 though? or will the af screw being turned correctly help that? We usually say to set the Idle around 2000 because when the carb is not tuned correctly it is sometimes hard to get the scoot to idle even around 1700 rpms. Your case is kind of odd , considering you can get the scoot to idle a 700 rpms. The reason you will want to tune to the highest rpm with the air fuel screw , is because this is the only way you can get the air fuel mixture perfect. To be honest, you may already be there , so if you want to try just raising the idle with the idle screw and see if that works first. Now that i think about it ,I'd don't see the scoot idling at 700 rpms if the airfuel mixture was off. If for some reason it doesn't work , try the carb tuning process I stated above. Let us know how it turns out. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 25, 2015 16:46:36 GMT -5
Rubber cement it back together if not totally jacked up. Do this outside the carb and make sure to let it dry good and you should get enough life out of it to remain mobile until a replacement can come in. Do not use gasket maker,permatex, rtv or any other products on a carb bowl. One of the corners is twisted, it doesn't seal right I also recommend buying a new gasket. Can you take a pic of the problem ? If its just , not fitting because its twisted . you can usually get it to seal with a little patience . I once had one that was slightly stretched and would not fit correctly into one of the corners. I threw it in the freezer for a while so it would shrink, then quickly put the gasket in place. It was just enough to get it to work. I'd like to see a pic so we can maybe give you another option. |
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Center stand
by: geh3333 - Jun 25, 2015 0:41:32 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 25, 2015 0:41:32 GMT -5
Thanks guys, still not sure what happened. The stand was in it's proper stowed position when she took off and the spring works fine. Now i come to find out she was taking a left turn...but at 5-10mph i still don't see how anything could have scraped the ground unless she was already headed in that direction. I'm really going to have to chalk this one up to rider error/inexperience until i can proper ride it myself and see if i can duplicate the circumstance. I figure i should have everything properly repaired by next week. *that picture was when i received the scoot, tire is fixed **I'll try and get a better picture of the muffler in the next couple of days...it must be stock though as no one has modded the scoot at all. At 5 to 10 mph its hard to lean that far for the arm of the center stand to scrap, so she may have been on her way to the ground. There is a very small hill by my house , the hill turns near the right near the top and keeps turning as you go down the other side. The hill itself is not level " from left to right " and as you turn the road leans the opposite way you lean into the turn , causing a very dangerous situation for the center stand arm. As I was leaning into the turn , the arm was getting closer to the rd , and the road itself was raising towards the arm causing it to scrap . thats what caused me to remove the center stand. It didn't take much for the center stand to hit the road. I do lean pretty good sometimes , but when you have something uncommon happen , it can be just enough to cause a very dangerous situation. I wasnt taking the chance of it happening again. I'm sure that's not the only rd that has this " special feature ",, lol |
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Center stand
by: geh3333 - Jun 25, 2015 0:29:43 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 25, 2015 0:29:43 GMT -5
Your back tire is low, also, it appears. You need to check that. It does look low . |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 25, 2015 0:22:20 GMT -5
I would check to see if bead has seated all around the rim I have seem them the bead didn't pop right and some still isn't in right place might be a easy fix and no money let air out soap up around rim and reapply air again what have you to lose a little time right. I've never seen that happen , but I'm sure it does, and it looks as if that could def be a possibility. It looks more like a deformation then a balance issue , so u may be right. If it were a balance issue , it would not be noticeable at lower speeds. This is noticeable from the time the wheel begins to spin . actually even at higher speeds you cannot detect a balance issue . that's why they use a tire balancer. You can spin a wheel that needs balanced next to a balanced wheel and you more than likely won't be able to pick it out. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 25, 2015 0:19:42 GMT -5
Yep , if you want better takeoff , and your not satisfied with just changing the roller weight , you will want to get stiffer clutch springs. I'd go with 1500rpm cclutch springs first. If that isn't enough , then I'd install a stiffer main spring also. This will keep you in a lower gear longer. The stiffer clutch springs will allow you too build higher rpms before the clutch engages , allowing for a faster stronger takeoff.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 25, 2015 0:12:42 GMT -5
You should have asked where to buy parts . to be honest , if you find a good eBay seller , you will get good results. Much better then going to some company like that . and most of us know some good ones. There are also good parts stores that are not on eBay.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 25, 2015 0:05:01 GMT -5
I've also seen a couple different stock dipsticks . the one that came with my scoot was either a 1/4 inch shorter or longer then the dipstick that came with my new engine. I thouht I posted a pick of them years ago but I'm not sure . the old one broke so I through it away. I'm not sure how that one was suppose to be read . I only have that engine for a very short time , I'm not even sure if I changed the oil in it.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 24, 2015 23:41:46 GMT -5
I've never hear anything about them giving you a 14 mph increase !!! That's kind of funny. The only way that happend is if the scoot was modded and they switched from an untuned stock CVT to a tuned CVT with that variator. So I would no go by feedback on the site. Its probably from the owner of the store. Funny thing is that they just " bolted it on " and it was perfect ! I guess it doesn't matter how much you weigh. Or he must have been the perfect weight for the setup. Or One size fits all . or wait !! Does 68mph downhill sound familiar !!! , lol
If I remember correctly , the dual ramp is mainly for better transition from low to mid to and to high range . that's why the buggy guys like it. Top speed , from what I remember isn't suppose to be much if any better.
Also don't listen to someone who is running their scoot at nearly 9000 rpms !! He probably doesn't have it anymore ,lol. There is a chance I can hit 75mph if I tune my scoot to be able to reach 9000 rpms and have full belt climb , but after a few weeks , I'd be pushing my scoot instead of riding it.
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