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Post by geh3333 on Jun 29, 2015 15:58:00 GMT -5
what do these number mean? would 120/70-10 fit? is 120 the width in MM and 70 the %? found a nice white wall one in that combo.. thanks 120 is the width and the sidewall height is 70% of 120mm . so 130's would be wider. And a 130/70 would even be taller . 70% of 130mm |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 29, 2015 15:55:26 GMT -5
All you need to do is put a switch somewhere . you can hook a switch to the cdi . when it's off you will not get any spark to the plug. Mount the switch somewhere out of site.
When it comes to the " steering lock" I have no clue what that is. Are you saying your handle bars lock in place when your key is out ? Just like a car. I'd just use a cable lock.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 29, 2015 15:47:36 GMT -5
140's may have rubbed the shocks on mine , I'm not sure. The 130/70/13 tires I bought , were a little taller then the stock 130/60/13 . the tire is about .5 inch from the rear of the engine block. I beleive it will be the same on yours since the short case is about 1.5 + shorter then a long case, from axle to the rear of the block.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 29, 2015 15:19:17 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 29, 2015 15:17:27 GMT -5
You should be able to fit a 130/70 , 130/60 on your scoot. My rim is also 3.50 inch wide. The 130's will be pretty wide on your scoot. So a 130/60/10 and a 130/70/10 should work.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 29, 2015 15:08:30 GMT -5
geh3333 do you think I can go wider? would that be 4.50-10? stock is 3.50-10 not sure how to read these numbers... i know 10 is the rim diameter but that is it... lol You can usually go a little wider or a little thinner. So your rim is 3.50 x 10 . what numbers are on the tires. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 29, 2015 15:06:42 GMT -5
They also make them in 3.50 x10 |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 29, 2015 15:01:33 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 29, 2015 14:53:27 GMT -5
I might have to ditch the whitewalls :/ Shinko is a good brand also. They seem to last about 10k miles. That is the rear. The front will last at least 20k . I use to switch the front to the back and put the new tire on front, but I'm keeping the front tire in place from now on . |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 29, 2015 14:42:06 GMT -5
The easiest way to find out for sure is to use a sharpie , and make a mark at he edge of the variator . maybe a 1 inch by 1 inch square at the edge. When you check the mark after a top speed run , you will be able to tell how high the belt climbed. The belt will remove the sharpie mark , so if there is any left , you know the belt didn't climb that high.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 29, 2015 14:33:59 GMT -5
The more I look at it , it seems like you have about 1/8 inch or so of untouched variator near the edge. But I'm not sure y there would be black marks over the edge.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 29, 2015 14:31:31 GMT -5
geh3333 not sure if I am reading the marks correctly on my variator but it looks to me that the belt actually climb over it? wow, must be really making power  I guess gears are needed bad. I need the pro to advise  Thanks Is that a stock variator ? The black lines are not good, it usually means the belt is slipping, but yeah , it looks as if the belt maybe climbing up and over the edge of the variator. If its stock , you will need to get a 115mm variator. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 28, 2015 23:34:48 GMT -5
I am a curious guy, sorta like our ole' pal George. I have noticed something about these things. On the 8 pole stators, some have 2 ignition coils, some have 1. They will both work fine, as I have used both in the past, on the same scooter. Is there any advantage to the one with 2 ignition coils? With 1 ignition coil, you have the advantage of another coil dedicated to lights/charging. Anybody know why some have 1, and some have 2? I recently changed over to the 11 pole stator, and I highly recommend it. My kick-starter is broken, and until I get the dough to order a new one, I am running 2 batteries on my scoot. That 11 pole stator charges both of those, no problem. It charges at roughly 14 volts at idle. I have no doubt it could keep 3 charged. I initially kept my original R/R for charging, and used a 7 wire one as a DC converter for lights, but Jerry told me that was unnecessary, and he was right. The old 4 wire R/R would charge at around 13 volts, which isn't good enough for 1 battery. The 7 wire rectifiers are SOOOO much better, so thanks Jerry! I ran all new wiring. Got different color 16 gauge from the autoparts store, and cut the connector off of the stator, and used bullet connectors. Same with the rectifier. Just cut the connector off, and used bullet connectors. I can disconnect them, and reconnect them as I please. Anyways, I kind of digressed. I was curious about the reasoning behind 1 ignition coil vs. 2 ignition coils. Also, there are a few different kinds of 6 and 7 wire rectifiers. The 11 pole stator is 3 phase( you can tell with a wire tester), and IMO, when paired with a 3 phase rectifier, gives you a much better source of DC voltage, and does a MUCH better job of charging your batteries. What's wrong with your kick start ? I have two of them . Layin around. |
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Oil leaking
by: geh3333 - Jun 28, 2015 23:31:52 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 28, 2015 23:31:52 GMT -5
I was taking the engine apart to get ready for the new head and found this. That is a cam sprocket bolt. Both cam sprockets bolts were present in their correct positions so I figure that this one dropped during production. Thinking that bolt fell onto the floor instead of into the cam assembly they just grabbed another bolt out of the bin and sent it on is way. It would have been pretty hard for that bolt to find its way behind the cam since the cam assembly has to be installed before the cam sprocket can be attached. What are the odds.....
It also took out the cam. 
Wait , did the head come with the cam and rockers installed ? Where did it come from ? |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 28, 2015 23:23:18 GMT -5
It may be that when you were tightening it the brake line itself was being twisted, so when you pull the brakes the line untwists and loosens. Try to hold the screw part of the line with needle nose pliers or something similar while you tighten the u-bolt. I bet your right. I have to hold the threads behind the nut , so the whole thing doesn't turn. |
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