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Chinese tachs
by: geh3333 - Jun 28, 2015 23:16:01 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 28, 2015 23:16:01 GMT -5
My CDI has an LED that lights every time it fires. I wonder if we could video it, slow the vid down, and count them. We would just have to count for 1, or 5 seconds. It would have to be somebody who is better at messing with videos than me, though. We could do the same with the flywheel. Slow the vid down, and count how many times it goes around. Mine idles at about 3K, now that I installed the BBK. It's probably the advanced angle CDI that makes it cut out at lower RPM. If you can do that , it would be great. That way you can compare your numbers to your tach.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 28, 2015 23:12:54 GMT -5
Hi All, I messed around with the scooters a bit today, and I ended up putting a bigger jet in (130 from 128) and it feels perfect. I even tried a 140 main jet but it felt way too rich. I'll have to buy a 135 jet. I think i definitely need gears, and I need some suggestions. My buddy thinks my scooter has enough torque to pull the 16x38 gears. Please keep in mind my scooter is a retro looking scooter (like a vespa) on 10 tinny inch wheels. should I try the 16x38 or 15x38? Also I need a new rear tire after about 4k miles, is there anything out there that would last a bit longer? Am I correct to think that do gears the rear wheel has to come off pretty much? Thank you - Luigi I'd go with the 15:38 . remember you want to be able to get full climb on the variator at around 7500 rpms . basically the taller you go with the gears , the lighter the roller weights you will need to reach 7500 rpms. If you go too tall , you will need too light of weights and the variator all not pull the belt up fully. You may be able to get away with using the taller gears. The only thing you can do is try them out.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 28, 2015 23:07:45 GMT -5
Pardon the late reply. I took out the clutch assembly and checked. Everything is fine. No broken clutch spring or torque spring. I put it back together and now there isn't dust build up anymore. Weeks. I didn't cange anything or altered the configuration of the belt, variator , or weights. That's good to know , just keep an eye on her
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 28, 2015 23:06:12 GMT -5
that's where it is. it was a little low before I think, the tab was pointed upward. Sorry bud , it seems as if you are going to have to do some fine tuning and try to find the right jet combo. If the plug is whitish then you will def want to upjet. If its seems to run stronger with the bigger jets , I'd start back with them and try to fine tune the carb. Its hard when you have jets that are labeled wrong.
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Chinese tachs
by: geh3333 - Jun 28, 2015 1:23:06 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 28, 2015 1:23:06 GMT -5
My main concern about our TACHS is , even when the engine is idling so low that its on the verge of cutting out , its still at or above 1000 rpms . I had mine idling at 1200 today and it sounded very low . I doubt the engine is actually running at 1200 rpms when its nearly cutting out. It sounds much lower. Ixf someone has a way to test the rpms some other way , that would be great.
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Chinese tachs
by: geh3333 - Jun 27, 2015 6:39:03 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 27, 2015 6:39:03 GMT -5
No one wants to bite ?
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 27, 2015 5:50:15 GMT -5
I have some exiting news to share. One of my buddies works at a tuning shop and he just bought a Honda Grom so together with another friend we been riding together every now and then. Anyway he is putting together a scooter tuning session for us so we can get the most out of our scooters, We are going to hook them up to the dyno and read air to fuel ratios as well. scooter #1 (mine) has ncy 61mm bbk with ncy 30mm carb and a9 camshaft plus exhaust and uni filter scooter #2 has no bbk, but bored out head, exhaust and intake manifold all bored out to match and A12 or A11 camshaft Groom #3 still mostly stock with after market exhaust only Its going to be a fun night it is probably going to happen in the next couple of weeks. Stay tune for updates There is nothing like true numbers !!
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 26, 2015 21:28:38 GMT -5
I'm going to replace the engine mount bushings, our "vintage" roads managed to crack the rubber stuff inside them and make the rear wheel wiggle a bit. What should I look when changing them? Are they easy to remove and fit? What tools are recommended? I imagine you can get them out pretty easy. A little bit of heat on the outer metal , and fing a socket the same size as the bushing . place the socket against the bushing and pound it out with a hammer.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 26, 2015 21:25:39 GMT -5
Ok, thx for all the answers. Poster above me, no thank you, i need to spend the postage money on other things. Rcq is a really good guy. I'm sure he can send it to you with free shipping. It should only cost the price of a stamp.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 26, 2015 19:40:54 GMT -5
Or just use the gasket maker as a thread sealer and it will seal the threads and under the bolt head. I know many call it a screw , but its more like a bolt.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 26, 2015 19:39:18 GMT -5
Honestly , you need a thread sealer. Use some thread sealer of the bolt and it will seal very good.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 26, 2015 18:58:54 GMT -5
You need then red rtv gasket maker.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 26, 2015 18:55:57 GMT -5
steve- I've messed with the valves and got them where they consistently read .004 intake and .006 exhaust when cold. i though it might be that at first and was disappointed to find it wasn't ): geh- i need to figure out the quote system. i bought a 26mm carb first and a 24mm later, they were both the same size. go figure. also, my primary jet was tiny and some holes weren't there, the ones that were there were all different sizes. in the kit i got, the one labeled 35 was biggest and 42 smallest, though it looked the same as the 40. they were stamped with the keihin logo but i seriously doubt they are legit. the 38 broke when i installed it. i guess it's gonna be down to tuning with the plug at this point? i was really just looking for a direction, the concensus seems to be carb tuning. i definitely can fiddle with that until results improve. I'm glad it didn't seem to be blown rings or burnt valves to anyone. I'll probably get on it tonight and give her a go. thanks to everyone so far, your help has been invaluable. I bought a set of jets off eBay and I had a similar issue. One was marked smaller but was larger then the rest ,lol.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 26, 2015 18:01:39 GMT -5
You got the right part, for sure, and that is all that matters. You did good. When my frame broke, it broke right next to the shock under the seat, so I tried to just swap out the handlebars, and instrument panel from my broken frame to the new one. But, when I inserted the handlebars, it was notched differently. when the front tire was straight, the handlebars were turned all the way to the right. I couldn't get the shocks out of the tripletree, for the life of me. So I cut a new notch with a dremel, and off I went. But, it was a pain. My point is, it is very nice to be sure you got the right part, which you did. That's what's nice about finding a good seller . they usually post all the measurements and pics of the product so you cant go wrong. You watch , he'll get the part and it will be wrong , lol. Actually that's not funny , but it could still happen. Those companies sell different types.
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hoca 52mm kit
by: geh3333 - Jun 26, 2015 17:59:12 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jun 26, 2015 17:59:12 GMT -5
Okay I got my build finished!!!!!!!! 52mm Hoca and stoker crank. I had to open the case a bit with 80 grit sandpaper, the jug was just to tight. Not much and bang it went in fine as silk. The case haves were not machined perfectly One issue is I can't find my jet box. Right now 20mm with a main. It runs sweet but I know there is more there. I had a 150carb laying around and gave it a short since the hoca 52mm will accept a 150 manifold. All it did was puke on itself. So tomorrow I will run with the 20mm/ jet unless I can find my jet box. I'd stick with the 24mm and rejet it when you get the jets. We've had many who have had very good results with bigger carbs.
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