|
Carb problems
by: geh3333 - Jul 26, 2015 20:04:33 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jul 26, 2015 20:04:33 GMT -5
Why would a new carb be better than a rebuild? To be honest , I've seen others work to get carbs working properly . they did everything to clean and replace the internals , but no dice. Sometimes a new carb is just worth buying rather then the Hassel of fixing the old one . that's just how it is sometimes.
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jul 26, 2015 20:01:43 GMT -5
I couldn't get a clear pic in the dark ill try soon daylight but my temp is at 185 crusing at 6 rpms at 25-30 mphs (10 mile ride) aftet i replaced the plastic fan cover and engine cover (forgot to mention plastic from engine was never put back on till today) temps are better but i dont know the normal temps are supposed to be. Are you saying the plastic shroud around the engine was not put back on until today? If so you are very lucky the engine is not gone! These are air cooled engines. The fan forces air around the cylinder head BECAUSE OF THE SHROUD. Without it (the shroud) there is little cooling. It's very, very fortunate you were paying attention to temps ... might be the thing which saved you from a new engine. I thought he took it off and just got it back on 2day. Rcq is right , you cannot run the scoot without that thing. Its a major part for the cooling to work at all.
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jul 25, 2015 1:31:02 GMT -5
I couldn't get a clear pic in the dark ill try soon daylight but my temp is at 185 crusing at 6 rpms at 25-30 mphs (10 mile ride) aftet i replaced the plastic fan cover and engine cover (forgot to mention plastic from engine was never put back on till today) temps are better but i dont know the normal temps are supposed to be. Normal temps are between 180-200 f. I would do a longer test. It sometimes takes awhile for the temps to rise. I can start the scoot up and ride to 5-10 miles at cruising speeds and the temps only get up to 145-160 f . let the scoot warm up for ten mins , then do a 10-20 mile run at cruising speeds.
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jul 24, 2015 23:16:59 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jul 24, 2015 20:48:36 GMT -5
How's it going , I'm just wondering what rpm clutch and main springs are you using and why ?
Thanks , george
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jul 24, 2015 2:27:31 GMT -5
You're suppose to buy a new one each time? I have the stock filter. It's a foam type of filter. The owner's manual says to wash it by hand with soap and water every 1,000 miles and oil it with motor oil afterwards, then replace it every 5,000 miles. I haven't noticed any issues with cleaning foam filters instead of replacing them. My Briggs & Stratton lawnmower has a similar type of foam air filter. That filter sometimes gets dirty to the point at which the mower begins to run rich, but it goes back to running properly after cleaning the filter with soap and water. My Yamaha Zuma also has a foam filter for its CVT. Owner's manual says to clean it with a solvent every 2,000 miles. OK , if its a foam filter then its ok to clean . most stock filters are the paper type, but since yours is foam , your in good shape.
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jul 24, 2015 2:25:07 GMT -5
I cant seem to find any options. Stock is 743 20 30 I think I found a 753 20 30 that I want to try but not sure about quality. Don't think that is real gates. do you guys have any suggestions? My belt is currently not getting full climb on my new larger variator, so wanted to try something longer. I would say I have a about 1/2cm or 1/8 inch of climb left. www.aliexpress.com/item/GATES-Powerlink-753-20-drive-belt/1925391301.htmlIt may work ? You can order it from Napa that way you know its legit.
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jul 24, 2015 2:07:42 GMT -5
Hi everyone. So today I just purchased a used Roma 150cc scooter with 1200 miles on it, and I was driving it home the hour drive when suddenly the accelerator stopped working. The scooter idled for a few seconds before it finally just stalled and rolled to a stop . Tried restarting it, and it just cranks but won't start. Then gas begins flowing out of what I think is the overflow for the carburetor. Anyone have this issue or know how to fix it? Thanks Sounds to me like the needle valve stopped doing its job and is now stuck open . Your needle valve closes off the flow of gas when the bowl is full. If it doesn't close properly , fuel will flood the carb and the scoot will stop running.
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jul 23, 2015 1:38:30 GMT -5
Some do have a side stand kill switch. But I'm curious why it does it when you just jerk it to the side.
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jul 23, 2015 1:36:11 GMT -5
This way the filter is much closer to the open air. You cant see it from the pic , but it sits a little lower then the side plastic panel, and its actually touching the bottom of the panel. Since the hot air is moving back , the uni " in this position " is sucking at 360 degrees therefore pulling some open coolr air. When the filter sits directly behind the carb , it is directly in the hot air path at all 360 degrees of the filter. I can't say its not sucking in any of the hotter air , but I know its at least sucking in some cooler air. The bottom and rear of the uni I the pic above , will be sucking in the cooler air. Since the upper and inner side of the filter is still in the compartment are , I would expect it would still suck in some hotter air, but its still not centered in the middle of the enime compartment , so I'm not sure if that helps a little or if it doesn't " when it comes to the top and inner side of the uni " Suggest yuo rotate it 180 degrees. You have it going to the right side, directly above the hot exhaust. If you swivel the elbow and head it toward the left side instead the filter will be sitting in significantly cooler air. Then you will be hitting your 70mph. I see what u mean. The filter is over the exhaust side. I would expect the air movment would push the hot air back before it rises to the filter , however it would be worth flipping to the left side , this way I'm not wondering if its sucking the muffler and header heat. At stops and idle , the heat would rise up to the filter . im def gonna flip it , thanks !!
|
|
|
I NEED HELP!
by: geh3333 - Jul 23, 2015 1:30:49 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jul 23, 2015 1:30:49 GMT -5
You really need to change the diaphragm . the plunger will not open the same with the rtv on it.
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jul 23, 2015 1:19:07 GMT -5
Can't, you just pull the seal without removing the side case cover ? Same as on the variator side .
You would just remove the fan, flywheel , and stator , and you will be able to get to the seal , at least on a 150cc
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jul 23, 2015 1:07:42 GMT -5
GEH I see what you are talking about with the 45degree bend. But how effective is that at removing the filter from the engine heat? This way the filter is much closer to the open air. You cant see it from the pic , but it sits a little lower then the side plastic panel, and its actually touching the bottom of the panel. Since the hot air is moving back , the uni " in this position " is sucking at 360 degrees therefore pulling some open coolr air. When the filter sits directly behind the carb , it is directly in the hot air path at all 360 degrees of the filter. I can't say its not sucking in any of the hotter air , but I know its at least sucking in some cooler air. The bottom and rear of the uni I the pic above , will be sucking in the cooler air. Since the upper and inner side of the filter is still in the compartment are , I would expect it would still suck in some hotter air, but its still not centered in the middle of the enime compartment , so I'm not sure if that helps a little or if it doesn't " when it comes to the top and inner side of the uni "
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jul 22, 2015 22:05:39 GMT -5
Also would changeing to a thicker oil work better for the upgrade? I forgot to mention the plastic housing around the flywheel is warped a bit Can you post a pic ? As long as air in not leaking out from a big hole , the scoot should not get that hot , especially just from cruising for 5 mins. I recently had an oil pump fail and the temps when up also.
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Jul 22, 2015 22:03:35 GMT -5
I re Took my temperature after I took a 5 mile ride to work (cruising 25-30) and now its at 250 You def have an issue . check you oil pump. Take the valve cover off and start the scoot. If the oil pump is working you will see oil pumping to the rocker arm area. You only have to let it run for a few seconds to verify if its working or not.
|
|