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Post by geh3333 on Jul 22, 2015 22:00:32 GMT -5
Who's wheels are u talking about ? Your, a course Lol, sorry . that's just my rims . they are blue but the edge is silver. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 22, 2015 21:57:43 GMT -5
Not sure if I posted this one before , but here is a pic of my engine compartment . its a good pic to get an idea of where you want the filter. I think i posted that my plastic elbow was a 45 degree , its actually a  , sorry about that " it was a while ago " .  |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 22, 2015 21:34:23 GMT -5
I think the thread has a very good topic. But I think it has slightly strayed off topic. I have a unifilter directly attached to my carb, and was thinking about adding the extender to push it out farther from the engine heat. But I have hesitated on doing the mod because of how it may change the dynamics of the air:fuel ratio. How I see it, with the filter directly attached the amount being sucked in remains fairly consistent. Since the wind hits the front and rolls off the sides. However, with the filter protruding from the side, air would be forced into the filter at higher speed causing a imbalance in the air:fuel ratio. Now this would be corrected with additional carb tuning. And would the extension create vortexes within the tubing, and what would those disturbances have an affect on the air intake? Plus, generally in my area the wind flows from south to north. That means my ride to work is slightly slower with more wind compared to from work to home. Would this difference in wind speed affect the ratio? So I'm still wondering the benefits versus drawbacks. Or if I'm completely overthinking it. The idea isn't to get the filter out so far it's into the airstream - just enough to get it away from heat. Only GEH (or his idol, Obama) would stick it out into the airstream. When I first installed mine , I had to ride in the left lane because my air filter would scrape the guard rail . I decided to just go with the setup in my pic. It sits just under the side plastic , but do sent protrude out past it. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 22, 2015 21:06:10 GMT -5
I've a;lways admired the blue detail strips obn your wheel. How did you do that? Who's wheels are u talking about ? |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 22, 2015 19:52:50 GMT -5
George, what clutch bell do you use/recommend? I use the one that came with the assembly. It has the " N's " cut into the bell. To be honest , I personally do not think it matters too much what type of bell you use. The ncy that came with the assembly has holes drilled into it that helps cool the pads. Other then the holes and some being lighter , they all should do the job just fine. I'll post a pic of mine.  |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 21, 2015 16:04:44 GMT -5
I put a cooking thermometer in the oil change dipstick hole and it read 195° for a 15 minute ride the bore kit I have installed came with a 19 millimeter carburetor a performance cam and a performance exhaust it's one of those all in one kits from 2starrider on eBay 195 is good . were you running it hard or just normal cruising ? I would do a test riding both ways and see what she is reading , but 195 is pretty darn good. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 21, 2015 16:00:37 GMT -5
geh3333, you have the NCY Secondary Slider Complete Assembly? how do you like it? is it worth the money? Yes , I still use the regular setting , but the slots are cut a little longer allowing for the clutch pulley to open a little more than stock . I bought mine about 3+ years ago . since then I had to buy new clutch pads . I started a thread a couple years ago about how it allows the belt to drop further into the clutch pulley , but no one seemed interested at the time. But yea , the 3rd gen clutch assembly is great. |
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I NEED HELP!
by: geh3333 - Jul 21, 2015 4:00:15 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jul 21, 2015 4:00:15 GMT -5
The only way a new belt may make you loose mph, is if your old belt was glazed causing the need to up the roller weights so your rpms don't sky rocket. Then when adding the new belt , the weights will now be too heavy causing too low of rpms and a loss of mph.
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 21, 2015 3:56:49 GMT -5
I dont have a thermometer tool but 5 mili sec of touching it is unbearable For any real data you will need to get an oil temp . then we will be able to give you some good advice. Your temps should be between 180-200 even on a long run. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 21, 2015 3:26:33 GMT -5
That bell is really nice!! That setup would look good with one of these open aluminum CVT covers!
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 20, 2015 21:35:18 GMT -5
Where are u at in Ohio ? I'm in western pa. If not too far maybe I can help. And I'll do it for free . +1 bone. Thanks buddy ! My brother lives about an hour or so into Ohio from Greene County pa. If I had to , I'd stay at his place for a couple days and see if I can help our new member get his scoot up and running. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 20, 2015 21:24:55 GMT -5
I'm ready to give up... not even full blown mechanics know what is wrong with it... scooters are just junk, completely unreliable you have to rebuild them every few months and it cost more to own one than buying a whole fleet of cars. No one here in the entire state of Ohio even knows how to work on one and it shows. I've replaced 4 major components and still have the same issue as I have had since it started to mess up 3 weeks after I bought it NEW. Nothing can fix this scooter without replacing every single part constantly and paying someone a fortune to do it. A waste of time and money. Where are u at in Ohio ? I'm in western pa. If not too far maybe I can help. And I'll do it for free . |
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I NEED HELP!
by: geh3333 - Jul 20, 2015 21:19:53 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jul 20, 2015 21:19:53 GMT -5
If I get an impact do I still need to clamp the pulley? Nope, just the impact. Make sure you don't buy a 1/4 inch impact. I bought an electric 8amp 1\2 inch craftsman impact. Most 1/2 inch battery powered ones work good. You just hold the drive face with you hand and use the impact. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 20, 2015 19:52:27 GMT -5
Alright. So found no wires leading to the transmission. The lack of speed turns out was a combo of the rear brake being adjusted to tight and half psi in the tire. Ha shows that you can never be under estimate the extent of what some one will fool with for no reason. So now she seems to be doing 30 on slight incline and I'll say 40 on the down side. Could probably push her more on the down hill but that's kinda beyond my interest lol. So now I gotta figure out the sudden issue with the turn signals. Probably a loose connection some where. They use the absolute best connectors in China (eye roll). And at the end of the month I'm going to be ordering a 100cc kit. Wish me luck Lol, you have no clue how many times I mention to check the rear brakes and make sure they are not too tight, but its never the issue. This time I don't mention it and it is an issue, lol. |
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I NEED HELP!
by: geh3333 - Jul 20, 2015 19:46:29 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jul 20, 2015 19:46:29 GMT -5
You need to buy a new diaphragm . to remove the variator , its best to use an impact. This is how most of us get it off. After you install a new diaphragm you will need to do a good carb tuning.
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, sorry about that " it was a while ago " . 
