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[replyingto=skuttadawg]skuttadawg[/replyingto]If you use it as a breaker bar, sounds like you got the higher torque one. I use a clickable one for the higher torque. Since torque wrenches are precision instruments, they should be stored separately from regular tools so it doesn't get banged around.

But again, for those who are just beginning wrenching, a bar type is good to start with and it shows the progression of increasing torque. Some people just don't know their own strength, lol.

Hey guys,

Thought I would try to help prevent future stripping of bolts since there have been a few already who have done this in the past few months.

When I was being taught to build aluminum engines, I was taught to use a beam type torque wrench. The reason? Aluminum is a softer metal and can strip a lot easier than cast iron. Also, the torque specs are lower. So for these GY6 based engines that take smaller torque specs, less than 25lb/ft, use a beam type.

The reason for the beam?
1. The cheapo click torque wrenches rated at ~60lb/ft or less just don't work. I have seen numerous people strip bolts with these.
2. With the beam type, you can see the torque increase on the beam as you turn harder, so you have less of a chance of over-torquing the bolt




You might say, well I have seen engine builders use click type. Yes, they do, but....those click type torque wrenches are checked often for accuracy and they are much much more expensive to ensure their accuracy.

For the axles, I would recommend a good click type torque wrench as the axles can take variances without breaking.

Lastly, if you do buy a click type of torque wrench for the axles or for the car lug nuts, you generally want to purchase one with max torque that is 2x the torque area you will be working with. So, if your car lug nuts take 80lb/ft, purchase a 150 lb/ft tq wrench. The click type torque wrench becomes less accurate in its lower and higher range.

Hint: don't forget to always set your click type torque wrench to 0, or less if it can, after use so the band inside doesn't stretch, thus rendering the torque wrench less accurate.


Disclaimer: I cannot account for the casting quality of manufacturers. You may do everything right, but it still strips.
And for me, I don't use a torque wrench on my GY6 single cylinder engines because after building over a dozen car engines, and now the top end of 3 GY6 engines, there is a "feel" of how tight that just comes with experience and knowing your tools. Now if I was doing a V8 all aluminum engine where every cylinder should be consistent, then I would use a beam type torque wrench.

I hope this helps, if not, then please ignore.

The A9 cam lobes are wider as well allowing more air/fuel to go into the cylinder and more time for the exhaust gasses to escape out.

Have you checked the plug, or is it at a point where you can't get it to WOT? Perhaps try a 92- MJ. I have a 47mm with A9 cam, stock head. I use an MJ.

That sounds great! Keep us posted on how she runs.

[replyingto=kyle401]kyle401[/replyingto]Thank you sir. I painted my wheels black so will get some pics up soon. They only problem right now....it is so hot outside.