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Post by brandjur on Aug 19, 2013 18:48:14 GMT -5
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Post by brandjur on Aug 19, 2013 18:38:10 GMT -5
There ya go! Finally some good news for you. I guess one of the lessons from your experience is to get a good big bore kit and don't do it piecemeal.
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Post by brandjur on Aug 19, 2013 18:35:28 GMT -5
That sounds like a lot of fun. Where I live everything is pretty much flat. Any pics?
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Post by brandjur on Aug 19, 2013 16:19:53 GMT -5
[replyingto=salracer]sailracer[/replyingto]NICE!!!  |
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Post by brandjur on Aug 19, 2013 16:18:39 GMT -5
Just trying to make it easy for the guy, to determine what his motor needs is all. I see your form Illinois maybe you have seen some of my HOTRODS at Joliet Drag Strip or up in Wisconsin DRAG AWAY or if your old enough at US 30 DRAG STRIP in INDIANA. You see I have been building Hotrod motors for DECADES so yes I am a very savvy wrencher and these 1 cylinder put puts are very simple, to me anyway. So I try to help the folks on here with some of the most common problems the scoots have and is why I posted a lot of stuff on the TIPS and Tricks thread. Gets tiring typing the same things over and over for the most common and basic problems with motors and cvts. Alleyoop You don't have to type anything. People can choose to use or not use your info. That is their decision. Lets get back to helping the guy. This thread is not about you. |
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Post by brandjur on Aug 19, 2013 16:00:54 GMT -5
Just realized I was typing the wrong name. It is Alleyoop, not poop. My bad. I will address correctly from now on.
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Post by brandjur on Aug 19, 2013 15:50:04 GMT -5
I only post when I see someone put up BAD INFO that will throw the guy off and start replacing parts he does not have to. Pare for the course just like a shop would do just replace parts and hope it fixs the problem then hand the bill to the poor soul. By the way the trick of the trade works at all throttle positions and is better than a PLUG CHOP because a plug chop has to be perfect otherwise the reading of the plug WHICH BY THE way is not always a true reading because it all depends on the temp and how long it was running. In addition not many know how to read a plug. So the trick of the trade the person then knows right off the bat what the motor needs more or less juice very simple. And he does not have to take the spark plug out which will be red hot and also find a place he can run it for a bit at WOT and suddenly stop and pull over have to consider safety for all concerned. Alleyoop Let's get back to helping the guy and PLEASE stop with the attitude AGAIN. The same rules apply to you as well and YES AlleyPOOP you can have POOP info too. I posted because of bad info as well. His condition is for WOT. Anyone can search for plug chop and learn more on their own. There is plenty of information out there. We should also not assume what he can/cannot do as well as his knowledge. In this instance, that is where asking more questions helps as well. Please stop AlleyPOOP. This is not a good example or attitude that should be displayed by a moderator. Let's help the guy. There is more than one way to skin a cat. With years of wrenching on vehicles, there is more than one way to fix/diagnose things. NOW, psychedelicode, do you know if the engine is sputtering or bogging at WOT @45mph? How does it run in partial throttle? etc. |
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Post by brandjur on Aug 19, 2013 15:18:06 GMT -5
If the air/fuel is off he has to change main jets or the air filter!!!! SAY WHAT, I tell you people say the most silly things sometimes, oh well. Here goes ALLEYPOOP again!!! Board was running great without attitude when you stopped posting. YES. If the a/f while running WOT is off you can change the main jet. Also, if it is running lean and you have a free flow filter, like a UNI, then YES, you can change to a paper stock one to try to balance the A/F out. It can go vice versa. Yes. We modify AIR or FUEL for the Air/Fuel ratio.  |
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Post by brandjur on Aug 19, 2013 11:47:54 GMT -5
I just wanted to add, sometimes the fuse is good, but the connection is bad. This can happen especially when a battery is changed. So, it could be as simple as making sure the fuse is on there tight so there is a good connection.
Good luck.
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Post by brandjur on Aug 19, 2013 11:37:05 GMT -5
That is a good place to start. To check the fuse, it is connected to the positive terminal of the battery. It has a plastic case and is a tube like fuse. Open the case up and check.
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Post by brandjur on Aug 19, 2013 4:39:32 GMT -5
Umm, first thing first. You need to give us more information on the basic things.
What idle/main jets are in the carbs?
Why did you change the carbs in the first place? (2nd, 3rd)
What was the affect of adjusting the air/fuel screw?
History of the bike? Miles, how it was running before, what is new, what was bad (and why), checked coil connections, etc.
How does it run now (off idle)?
Many things can affect the idle. It could be a simple bad connection for the enricher to larger problems, like burnt valves. If you give us more information, then the problem can be narrowed down.
Good Luck
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Post by brandjur on Aug 19, 2013 4:26:28 GMT -5
I would say Alleypoop that trick (link) you posted isn't fully correct with this application. Since psychedelicode is cutting out at 45mph at WOT, adjusting the a/f screw is not going to have much impact here. For WOT, if the air/fuel is off, then he has to change main jets or the air filter. psychedelicode, You might want to check the main things first: 1. Fuel - Carb is clean, fuel filter is clean and the correct direction, 2. Spark - Connections to the coil, good spark on the plug 3. Air - no air or vacuum leaks 4. Valves - They might have to be adjusted wider for the new big bore if the engine is running hotter. Could be why your scooter was limping after a long ride. I had to set my exhaust valve on my 72cc bbk a little wider to .005 because of the exhaust heat (stock exhaust). 5. Change your main jet - It could be a rich or lean condition 6. Check your spark plug for signs of rich or lean. Do a plug chop. Sometimes determining a WOT and max velocity air/fuel condition can be tricky, simply because it is hard to hear or feel exactly what is happening. If this is the case, then the plug chop is a good way to check. If you do hear or feel something, then figure out if it is a bog or a sputter. Also, you might just have to go through the checklist 1 by 1 to rule things out. Just an FYI, a typical 139qmb bbk does not really exceed ~45mph unless an upgear or upgraded variator was done (if running correctly). This is because of the max rpms that should be experienced. Maybe it's time for you to upgear with that stroker. Good luck. |
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Post by brandjur on Aug 17, 2013 23:38:42 GMT -5
DX
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Post by brandjur on Aug 16, 2013 12:44:47 GMT -5
Just time to the "T" how ever you can. Whether it stays in place or not, it still has to be timed correctly. Double check your timing as the T doesn't stay in place. "The difference" is your best guess where the camshaft should line up with the T since the T mark isn't exactly in place. This isn't exact science, this is learning via experience. Always double check your camshaft marks after. You can do this by holding the T mark and looking back at the camshaft after it is installed.
The fact that it doesn't settle on the T mark is irrelevant. My guess is before you had the everything installed, including the spark plug. This would create pressure in the cylinder so it doesn't turn as easily.
Just try to time it correctly and see what you learn.
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Post by brandjur on Aug 16, 2013 11:24:28 GMT -5
When I do the 139qmb motors, they all do that due to the magnet. When I do the timing of the GY6 125/150 motors, they stay in place. What you are experiencing is normal. Timing doesn't change. It should be at the "T" mark. I don't hold it. I kind of adjust for that difference, then double check after the chain is on the camshaft.
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MJ, Orange coil, Blue Performance CDI (Orange NCY did not work), NGK Iridium, 5g Sliders