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Post by brandjur on Jul 16, 2013 20:59:42 GMT -5
What is loud? The tapping? Have you tried .004 and .005? Sometimes it is a trial and error thing. After, redo the idle a/f and the idle speed.
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Post by brandjur on Jul 16, 2013 15:12:03 GMT -5
[replyingto=bigmac]bigmac[/replyingto]So you might not have an oil problem at all. Does it run well off idle and idle is your only problem?
It might be as simple as a good valve adjustment and adjusting your idle. I adjust my exhaust valve at .005 after noticing the exhaust header gets really hot (I compared to another engine). So it left me more room for heat expansion. I did it to .004 before and it stalled on me. It ran fine, but when it got hot it stalled and I had to wait until the engine cooled down to start it up again. What do you set your valves at?
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Post by brandjur on Jul 16, 2013 14:24:16 GMT -5
I just wanted to share my experience with you guys since some are considering the A9 cam after a bbk. I know it has been discussed before on other boards, but thought I would share on the new board. Before the A9 cam and Blue CDI I got 42mph as my max (only once @ 65 degres F outside temp) via gps using a phone speedometer app (I did 40mph repeatedly as max). After the A9 cam, Blue CDI, and tried out 6g sliders, I was able to cruise at 40mph no problem and received a new top speed of 46mph (@  degrees F). With the CDI and A9 cam combo I do notice more power all over the powerband, but the real improvement is in the mid to upper range where stock is more anemic. I have only put 130 miles on on the cam, so waiting to see if it gets faster. To compare, the A9 cam, Blue CDI, and 6g sliders is faster to 40mph than using 5g rollers without cam/CDI. The scooter feels lighter on acceleration throughout the rpms. I used 6g sliders because I marked my variator with a sharpie and there was a some room left for the belt to climb (perhaps because the higher rpms didn't have enough torque) Just so you know, this isn't a huge bang like installing a bbk, but it is a nice finish to a bbk bringing smooth and full power throughout the rpms and in partial to wide open throttle. The exhaust pulses are smoother now as well. I am guessing this could be because of the wider valve openings and perhaps longer overlap. Sorry, I don't have a pic comparing, but you can visually see the wider camshaft lobes on the A9 cam. Remember, for mid to upper rpms, a certain amount of valve overlap is good because when the exhaust valve is closing, the overlap of the opening of the intake valve helps rush the exhaust gasses out. For those of you already with torque and clutch springs, this would be a great upgrade. I hope I described the A9 cam power delivery thoroughly to you guys so you can make your decision. If not, please ignore  Next, I am going to try 5.5 sliders (really 5g & 6g) to see how that is with the cam power delivery and if the belt moves all the way up the variator. Just an FYI, I bought my A9 cam from here www.ebay.com/itm/151072351532?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 |
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Post by brandjur on Jul 12, 2013 12:41:57 GMT -5
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Post by brandjur on Jul 11, 2013 13:11:16 GMT -5
[replyingto=salracer]sailracer[/replyingto]I agree. There is no need for short mileage change intervals. I changed mine twice to "flush" out the original oil (150 miles in between). These gear oils are designed for much more torque, heat, and mileage.
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Post by brandjur on Jul 10, 2013 11:02:22 GMT -5
Any synthetic gear oil 75/  should be good. A bottle will last you at least a few gear oil changes. 75/140 is too thick and is mostly used where shear strength for higher impact vehicles like trucks or heavy stress acceleration like race cars. |
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Post by brandjur on Jul 8, 2013 12:53:30 GMT -5
Nicely done!  |
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Post by brandjur on Jul 7, 2013 0:36:43 GMT -5
That is not the part number. It is 12 volt with 18 watt low beam and 18 watt high beam. A bubbling could be caused because the bulb was handled with bare hands. Never touch a head light bulb with bare hands because the oils ruin the glass. Use latex gloves or a paper towel to handle the headlight bulbs. You can probably find the bulb here, half way down the page. www.scrappydogscooters.com/COMMON_PARTS.html |
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Post by brandjur on Jul 5, 2013 15:26:23 GMT -5
I think it is louder if they WOT it. They did a light rev to show the difference.
This isn't mine.
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Post by brandjur on Jul 5, 2013 14:11:56 GMT -5
I most likely will buy a "cheap quality" exhaust down the road, but this is one of the best exhaust sounds I have heard on a small 4 stroke. Sounds like it controls the resonation as well as the decibels. Nice full sound. I want that sound! www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_id=10150134424077474 |
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Post by brandjur on Jul 5, 2013 13:41:46 GMT -5
With my modifications, I can do 42mph on flats (gps). I weigh 165lbs. I don't plan on needing any more speed as I need a balance of acceleration and speed with the numerous city stop lights. I also don't want to go much faster on the 10in wheels, unless I change the tires to good quality ones and get them balanced.
The biggest change is in the acceleration and torque. Before the changes, cars would honk at me because I took so long to get up to speed. Now, I go with the flow. It is safer because cars don't speed up to cut me off anymore.
btw, my stock top speed was 33mph.
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Post by brandjur on Jul 5, 2013 13:31:29 GMT -5
In the auto industry we call those temporary fixes, even if the label says permanent. Some may say permanent so they can sell it. The wind isn't really the factor. The heat is the factor. When 2 different metals or materials are hot, they will get hot and cool at different rates. So, this lend to warping, bending, flexing, and ultimately gaps in temporary patches. The header pipe is the hottest part of the exhaust, so that is the most prone.
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Post by brandjur on Jul 4, 2013 23:30:26 GMT -5
Get that thing welded up at a muffler shop so you don't have to worry about it and the pipe looks seamless. It is looking good and sounding good. Purchasing an exhaust is scaring me because I know it will have to be man handled to get a good fit.
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Post by brandjur on Jul 1, 2013 22:59:45 GMT -5
Perhaps your fuel flow is not enough or consistent if it dies shortly. Maybe you got a bad tank of gas and clogged your fuel filter. Also, make sure your new fuel filter is the correct direction if directional. There might be an arrow on the plastic housing of the fuel filter.
As, long as there is spark, your old and new carb didn't get dirt in it, and you have good air flow, then look at fuel. You can also look for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the areas where there could be a leak. The only thing is the engine has to be running for that to work.
Good luck.
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Post by brandjur on Jul 1, 2013 22:45:46 GMT -5
Good job. Hope it lasts |
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MJ, Orange coil, Blue Performance CDI (Orange NCY did not work), NGK Iridium, 5g Sliders
degrees F). With the CDI and A9 cam combo I do notice more power all over the powerband, but the real improvement is in the mid to upper range where stock is more anemic. I have only put 130 miles on on the cam, so waiting to see if it gets faster.
should be good. A bottle will last you at least a few gear oil changes.