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Post by carasdad on Dec 21, 2013 18:55:08 GMT -5
Wow John..I know you have a bit of contempt for me...but.. My post was not about you OR your products so no need to retort with a 'Now what?' video. I test and tinker with many so called performance parts..then put out there what I find. It does not mean my observations are definitive or total Gospel fact. I merely said that my timing light showed no advance in CDI's that claim to have it..AND I did say the Casoli one appeared to in my post..did I not? You see..I watch so many folks blow money on high dollar items that do nothing but line a manufacturers pocket...so I try to get the word out...because they come on here wondering why they don't have the claimed performance gain..and they think they did something wrong. Just like the many here that buy A9 cams that give no improvement..and in most cases degrade performance..hence the reason I bought a few A9 cams and measured them with a degree wheel and runout gauge. That is because the criteria for each grind seems to remain a mystery..as nobody can tell you what they are....they do not know simply because..not even their wholesaler does. They are just told that they are A9 etc. My buddy owns an automotive machine shop and has the parameters for A8 through A14 cams that he got from MRP years ago when the numbers were not a secret. Many are found to be anything BUT what it is marketed as.. We test parts together...therefore just as you..well..we test things. I had no clue that reporting observations would get under anyone's skin. My sincere apology..and I will keep findings to my self. Make today great..and have a wonderful Holiday.  |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 21, 2013 17:01:57 GMT -5
In such a situation it is not beyond the realm of possibility for the engineers to incorporate a permanent physical advance in the timing of the magnet passing under the pick-up, and having the CDI incorporate an electronic 'delay' in sending spark signal out at lower RPM. Conversely, the CDI would, at higher RPM, reduce the delay in passing along the signal resulting, in effect, in 'advanced' timing (read: 'not delayed') over lower RPM. That I think may be plausible..since unlike a car..the pickup nor magnet are able to rotate to a new position to allow that type of advance..  tvnacman..I did have one that seemed to advance..that was the Casoli brand. But each rev was not consistent in where its firing point was illuminated by the inductive timing light.. i.e. at 4k then 6k each rev..it appeared in a different spot. So i had to check my flywheel nut and woodruff key to make sure the flywheel was not loose. But again..the advance?? was never consistent..more like a fluke with my timing light maybe.. |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 21, 2013 16:52:27 GMT -5
Alley..tx..been wanting to play with one of those. But typical fate being..when ya don't want sumpin..they got 5 million online..BUT the day ya go looking for one to tinker with..they disappear.. More Chinese marketing tactics I think.. You know..create your own supply and demand..lol..  ....  |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 21, 2013 11:08:53 GMT -5
After analysis and testing many 'performance' CDI's with an inductive timing light. I have seen that they must be a hoax. Ok let's look at this. Our ignition systems are controlled by a magnet and a pickup coil. The ignition CANNOT fire UNTIL the magnet passes under the pickup coil. The system itself is fixed and non advancing..unlike like a cars electronic or vacuum advance for the Distributor. The CDI can ONLY fire once it gets a signal...which again comes from the pickup position. Slotting the stator on 2T's and moving the pickup by elongating its mounting holes on a 4T will show an advance with a timing light as I have found. But again..the timing may be advanced but it is still fixed. So hopefully somebody can explain to me how a CDI can fire in an advanced timing curve mode..long before the pickup signals it to fire??. It is no wonder that folks with stock to modified engines see no difference or gain from a 'performance' CDI. Input on this would be greatly appreciated AND help folks..so they don't waste money on a gimmick type part. Lastly..when I was not concerned with tinkering with timing..3-5 degree 2T offset flywheel woodruff keys were everywhere..now that I want to mess with one..I can't find them. Anybody know of a resource for them? Thanks, Glenn
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Post by carasdad on Dec 19, 2013 23:15:58 GMT -5
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Post by carasdad on Dec 17, 2013 12:33:11 GMT -5
I will look and see if I still have it Kevin..awesome..tx bro..  |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 17, 2013 12:30:47 GMT -5
Post removed...sorry! Please call or email Glenn Rick..no problem Sir..will do. As they say..everything works out in the end.. |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 16, 2013 13:50:02 GMT -5
Post removed..not worth the effort.. |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 16, 2013 13:45:59 GMT -5
Post removed..not worth the effort..  |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 16, 2013 10:42:50 GMT -5
I find 2 things that cause this.. 1. Water gets in the cable and freezing weather causes it to freeze up. 2. Check your throttle grip where the end of the cable connects.. These frequently get chipped off leaving a bur..or get bent slightly so that the cable binds...then breaks. On 2 stroke Scoots ONE tiny grain of sand or crud on the carb slide will cause it to hang up. Also on those Carbs..a loose Needle(caused by a poor fitting clip) will not let the slide return to idle position.. or bent Needle will do the same..  |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 16, 2013 10:22:14 GMT -5
Post removed..not worth the effort..  |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 11, 2013 22:27:48 GMT -5
i put a 38pilot jet on mine and the main jet is 100, runs great with this set up with open air filter Thanks..where did you get the TK Pilot jet? They use standard Mikuni VM11/22 Main Jets..but some oddball Pilot Jet... Got a link? |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 7, 2013 8:56:31 GMT -5
Mine came with a 40IJ and I have the screw turned 1/4 out . I put on a BBK and it would not want to idle for a long time without giving it some throttle . I put in a 45 IJ and now it purrs . When it was a 50 it started and idled fine . Note I have a TK carb so others may vary Kevin..this is a TK carb..and trying to find idle jets for them is fruitless. Still got your old #40 idle jet?.. I'll buy it from ya..or trade you a new #45 that I have..it is actually marked #45. I stumbled across a few of those from a shop that was going out of business. They worked on the generic Lepei carbs I got from my wholesaler. Odd my wholesaler sells carbs but no jets or rebuild kits for them.. |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 6, 2013 21:01:07 GMT -5
Well you need a smaller pilot jet those 18-19mm carbs usually come with 32-35 pilot jet. So a #35 should do the trick. Alleyoop Thanks..that is what I thought they were..#40 or less. But been a few years since I bought a 2T carb..but could not remember what size they were. The ones they sell these days..the Main nor Pilot Jet is marked. I understand them trying to save money when making new carbs..but for crying out loud..how much more would it cost them to simply stamp a size on them??. |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 6, 2013 17:54:21 GMT -5
Alley..yup Sir..sure did.. I can turn it out until only one groove in the threads is holding it..still slobbering rich. Never had one of these 19mm 2T replacement carbs do that. Pilot Jet is not marked..but it must be huge..  If you turn it in to 'normal' 2-3 turns out...it won't start..all it does is reek of raw gas with an occasional pop until the plug is to wet to fire.. |
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