$500 on parts and I'm still so slow??????  By  played1 (Read 3,526 times)

It's just a normal 150cc gy6 variator. It's from the stage 4 kit on MonsterGY6.com. BTW, you do not get the one pictured.

I think the most efficient way to spend that would have been to buy a bbk, Then a performance camshaft(They make a big difference.). Then up-jet the carb, and free flow filter/exhaust. Then *Experiment* with the variator weights. I've found heavier people need lighter weights. I would not recommend an Un-restricted cdi, unless it advances timing, because i've found that almost all stock dci's are not restricted. Waste of money if you ask me. I would HIGHLY recommend you getting the NGK boot cap for you Iridium plug. On every bike i've worked on it makes a big difference in spark reliability, and has made the bikes start easier.

Wow, someones insecure about their weight. I really didn't mean t like that but ok. Of course non of what I said helps you because you read what you wanted too. I got a 50 that goes over 45, with $100, but you dropped 500 and can't achieve what my smaller engine can? I don't recall you paying for help, so you can lose the attitude.

Nycscooterparts.com sell high performance towels for you to cry into .

now did you just want to be a crybaby or did you want to get to 50 mph ?

some sites take your money others help you reach your goal .

What did you come here for ?

John

With the exception of the bolded items everything on your list either improves reliability of the engine (without adding any performance), or adds additional load to a stock engine (the upgraded gears). The 12g roller offer a very slight offset to the added engine load, but only under low speed conditions. I note also that you have not done anything with the contra-spring on the clutch. The contra-spring and rollers work in unison. Messing with one, and not the other is 'a job half done'. My first suggestion would be to step up to at least a 1500rpm contra spring (don't be surprised if you find you need to re-adjust which variator weights you use). EXPECT to be tearing your transmission apart several times to get it tuned in correctly for what you want, but bear in mind, that you haven't really done anything to make the engine put out more power. No bigger cam...no larger valves...no increased compression...nothing.

To whit: A 1.0l, 3 cylinder Geo metro engine will not make a '72 Dodge Charger move as fast as a 318cid (5.2l) will, regardless of what gears you put in it or how long a stretch of road you let it have to 'get up to speed'. There is a point of diminishing returns when it comes to moments of energy available from a given engine, and you have exceeded that point by adding taller gears, but not increasing your engine output to match. The larger carb/intake/filter/exhaust might help a little, but putting an 800cfm Holley double-pumper on a stock Geo engine with a straight pipe isn't going to make the Geo engine suddenly put out 300HP. There's a saying amongst old-school wrenching types: "There's no replacement for displacement."

It does have the upgraded springs and the 1500 yellow main spring. I have plenty of power off the line it's just the top end that I'm not achieving. When I say top end, I'm not meaning top speed, but just the ability to tach out a little higher. I can hear it and feel it bogging like the a/f mixture is crap but I've toyed with this to no end. If there is a way to adjust the timing with what I have, it may fix it. I swear is too much air of too much fuel.

Also, if there are NCY golf towels I'm interested. Thanks guys