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Post by carasdad on Jan 4, 2014 22:23:07 GMT -5
These days ya never know. My Adly is Taiwanese made. Now It is called an UNO and owned by Lambretta. They changed nothing on it and it is still the same Scoot...just different company. So even Italy is now jumping in on the Chinese market. Lucky for me it a quality built Scoot without any of the typical Chinese issues..but still.. Now even Lambretta is going Chinese? Well Taiwanese..but still really close by comparison..
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Post by carasdad on Jan 4, 2014 22:15:32 GMT -5
With that mileage...does sound like it needs a valve adjustment..A tight valve would cause compression loss..I would try that first even before fiddling with the carb. I have a plan of action I always use.. ONE THING at a time then test run it. Reason is because..I know if it gets worse the last thing and only thing I did..was what made it worse. If i do 4-5 adjustments at once and it runs bad...it's anybodies guess what caused it..and it takes time to figure out what went wrong..  When you think about it..a compression loss always equals a vacuum loss on a normally aspirated engine. Therefore it can't suck fuel in for a good start...and ya end up using starting fluid to get 'er to 'pop' Set your valve lash first..then come back and tell us how good she is running..  |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 4, 2014 20:11:10 GMT -5
Little update fellas believe it or not I drilled the plug out of the way of my a/f mixture screw gave it a full turn counter-clockwise. adjusted idle speed screw, went for a ride a Walla I'm staying right with him. Could someone explain how this worked? Lol It's like this.. Scoots are built with an 'Average' or estimated jetting and A/F setting for the U.S.. So if you live high or low altitude..adjustment IS needed! The manufacturers have no clue whether you will be riding at sea level in Florida..the mountains of West Virginia...or the high elevations of Colorado etc.. Also they tend to use whatever they have on hand when building them. A good example...one connector in your harness has..say a red..yellow blue and green wire..but it plugs into a white..brown orange and pink connector. Why?? It is what wire they hand on hand..so they used it. One reason wiring issues can be confusing. make sense now?..  That should clear it up for ya..  |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 3, 2014 20:23:55 GMT -5
If one likes to tinker sure one can try to fix one, but why when you can find some for under$10.00. Alleyoop i have 3 cheap ones that work (sorta, lol). the one i want to fix is about $30-$40 to replace. plus i hope to learn something by doing it (assuming it can be done). considering how much i have spent on CDI's this year, it will be great if i can figure out how to build a reliable one or at least learn how to fix them for cheap. The 2 components that typically fry on the CDI are Electrolytic Capacitor because they are cheaply made and leak. The NAND gate is made of cheap transistors as well..while transistors are the ultimate component to be used for ultra fast switches..incoming voltage must be well regulated and without spikes...or their Base Emitter Diode becomes saturated too soon closing the gate prematurely which builds heat and burns out that switch. If China could bring their component quality and surface mount technology up to Japanese standards..our CDI's would last longer. I had a 32 yo Yamaha 250 Enduro Motorcycle that had the original CDI it came from the factory with. The engine had been rebuilt twice...HOWEVER..the factory CDI never failed in its total of 59,000 miles.(Take note China) Btw..my father was an electronics engineer and my cousin is as well. My cousin has disassembled many of my bad Chinese electrical parts and showed me faults he finds in them. He says the design is great..but component QC can in no way exist. Also he says he has first week students that can solder better than an experienced Chinese Tech...lol. But they are repairable..he has done a few...just hard to saw open with all the epoxy they put them together with.. |
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grrrr
by: carasdad - Jan 3, 2014 19:01:44 GMT -5
Post by carasdad on Jan 3, 2014 19:01:44 GMT -5
Also the t3 has 12 inch tires where the atm has 10s bigger tires produce higher speeds Good point too..cause they have the same final gear ratio..so the larger diameter tires would load the engine.. One reason many folks with the T3's go to lighter roller weights..to let the engine rev up a bit more to overcome the load.. |
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Post by carasdad on Jan 3, 2014 18:55:30 GMT -5
OK thanks! Got it. We'll have to see how it goes. Can you explain how to replace the regulator? I've heard it's near the front tire... is that true? Also, I'm up here in Michigan... any idea how I can ride in the snow without slipping? I've seened some spiked tires, but idk if they would work well or not... Any idea on some good tires or alternative? Maybe chains on the tires? Thanks a lot! Happy New Year! Michigan here as well. I ride all winter as long as the roads are clear. Forget spikes on your tires..they are illegal here.AND they only work on frozen lakes..but even then they suck. Do as we Motocross riders do in the winter when our track is covered with snow. My Knobby tires have 3/8 Hex Head sheet metal screws in them. Then we race on the frozen lakes. Doubt Scoot tires are thick enough to do this..since the screws must be put in the knobs of the dirt bike tires. Also when I cross a paved road with them to get to another lake or trail..they are NOISY and wear within 50 yards of roadway. So..nah..forget any of that stuff...just ride on clear roads. As for the battery not charging..all too often folks just pop in electrical parts without ever testing stuff. Check your stator voltage first..if it is not putting out..a regulator won't do any good. So i would check the below first.. Troubleshooting the Stator: 1. Set your multimeter to read in VOLTS "AC". 2. Locate and disconnect the Black/Red and Blue/Yellow wires coming from the stator, where they plug into the main engine harness. (These are both bullet-style connectors) 3. While cranking the engine, use a multimeter to check for voltage coming from the Red/Black (CDI power wire) and the Blue/Yellow (trigger wire) coming from stator. Place the black lead of multimeter on a metal surface of the engine while using the red lead on the tips of the wires. 4. There should be between 20vAC ~ 100vAC coming from the CDI power wire (Black/Red), although much lower voltages will still be able to produce spark. 5. There should be at least 0.05vAC coming from the trigger wire (Blue/Yellow). Normal values: Stator output: 20vAC minimum. 60-100vAC is normal. Trigger output: 0.05vAC minimum. 0.5-1.0vAC is normal |
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grrrr
by: carasdad - Jan 3, 2014 18:41:45 GMT -5
Post by carasdad on Jan 3, 2014 18:41:45 GMT -5
All the 2013 ATM and T3's I have worked on were 44mm 'secret 63' engines. Those imported the last quarter or so..of the year were 50cc cause the DOT...EPA and Customs put a big smack down on them for it.. Bad part was the reason I had to work on them is they were jetted way too lean for a stock 50 even...yet they put a 63 top end on them.
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Post by carasdad on Dec 27, 2013 18:51:35 GMT -5
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Post by carasdad on Dec 27, 2013 12:02:53 GMT -5
71 by the chinometer, maybe.... 71 is a tall order for a carbed 250 gy6... let alone a bbk on a 50cc..... Just put down the glass pipe.... Yeah he is not ONTO something...he is definitely ON SOMETHING... Thinking LSD as that makes folks hallucinate.. |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 27, 2013 9:07:01 GMT -5
Wow..I gotta have this! Beats my identical Adly by 15mph! I only can hit 56mph. I think the dude has too much Southern Comfort or Jack Daniels in his Egg Nog?..  He is gonna sell it..BUT you can't test ride it? Must be afraid they will see the truth...hmm  grandrapids.craigslist.org/mcy/4255297133.html |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 27, 2013 8:29:48 GMT -5
 Black wet plug indicates too rich. It could also mean weak or non working spark components. But typically with a CDI..it either works..or is slam up dead.. Ignition coils and pickup coils can be intermittent.. Always start at the Stator and check voltages from there. If the stator has voltage to the CDI and pickup coil wires...check your ignition coil. But if it runs with the stock CDI..that may be your weak link.. I have found that performance CDI's will last either 5 minutes..or 5 years.. But then even the stock CDI is a weak link.. I offer customers road side repair..and the 2 biggest things I find are a broken belt..with the majority of break downs being the CDI..whether stock or performance. I get CDI's by lots of a dozen from my wholesaler..and it never fails that 2 out of the 12 arrive dead as a door nail.. Oddly this is not an issue with ignition coils..voltage regulators and the other electrical components..
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Post by carasdad on Dec 27, 2013 7:16:25 GMT -5
I'm almost positive your rings are dead....Oil problems--->decreased performance----->Exhaust smoke-----> No start...... . Bingo! This quote is a CLASSIC and very common GY6 occurrence... The fix is just as easy as he explained.. |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 21, 2013 22:37:56 GMT -5
Just curious as to how this all is just beating a dead horse? When all of us are uncertain.. It means you already have the answer..so please share it with us? Thanks..looking forward to an answer on how this works and I am sure others will benefit from the input... Glenn |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 21, 2013 22:21:25 GMT -5
Glen , we are on the same page . I have a rather large box full of hype performance CDI's . I choose not to deceit the public therefore I do not look to sell them . I would like to be rid of them but not under false claims . I did not take your post as if it were directed toward me . I do make claims and the video just backs up my claim . I look to see other dealer research it cuts down on my expense . I'm not surprised about what you say about the A9 cams (anything to part people from there money) . I would like to have a copy of the spec sheet for the cams and a peek at your setup for checking them . The now what was over the top , in the future I will keep the wise guy suppressed . John Yeah..like you..I have boxes of 'hype' components that I won't sell..give away...or even toss out cause I wanna take them apart or examine them compared to 'normal' stuff..which in many cases they are just normal stuff. Take apart a performance coil..you would expect a different amount of windings and different gauge wire...but ya won't see it. Then set your Fluke meter to Ohms...what do ya get?.. The same resistance as a stock coil. However one idiosyncrasy I did find with high tension coils was that I had a few with constant misfires. Testing them on the scoot in a dark garage I found that they arced the plug gap..but frequently didn't and just arced to the frame. To test a cam we just mount one in the engine...find true TDC..attach a small version of a degree wheel(many free ones on the internet..just print them out and rubber cement it on or use 3m 77 spray adhesive to attach it to a CD or DVD so you can bolt it in place) Then attach a run out..or dial gauge to the cam base and rotate the cam to measure lobes. Here is a link.. www.ooracing.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=3370A True A9 should have in the ballpark of... intake lobe widest point is 25.78 exhaust widest point 25.67.. lift is 5.86 LSA (Lobe seperation angle) is 119 degrees. Meeting the criteria for an A9 cam..LSA is the distance bewteen the two lobes. Here is a good read on how to do it..and what a wide LSA vs a narrow LSA does to engine performance... www.lunatipower.com/Tech/Cams/CamSpecTerms.aspx Happy reading... |
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Post by carasdad on Dec 21, 2013 18:59:20 GMT -5
Getting it back for 400 bux? Awesome..the parts you put in it are worth that alone!! So it's like the rest of the Scoot is free..  Post pics as ya go along with the stroker project..lots of folks would be happy to see a step by step tutorial.. Glenn |
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