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Post by carasdad on May 11, 2013 8:27:09 GMT -5
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Post by carasdad on May 11, 2013 8:18:54 GMT -5
Anyone done this successfully with an actual improvement to acceleration/idle? about how far did you move it which direction? i have the orange cdi which "advances" but its kinda hard to tell for sure on those Just a note VERY FEW of the CDI's that say they advance actually do. I do parts sales/Scoot repair and have tested many with an inductive Timing Light. Mark your flywheel with 'Sharpie Pen' Connect the timing light and give some throttle..watch to see if mark you made actually moves. Orange..black and the blue 'New Racing' CDI from different sellers showed different results. Most had no advance..3 I tried did truly advance..1 orange..1 black 1 'New Racing' CDi but 3 of the 'New Racing' blue CDI's were 10-12 degrees advance already at idle..and stand there through the whole rpm range. So before you adjust your timing manually. Make sure of what your CDI is doing before hand with a timing light. On my 2 stroke Minarelli we do not have a moveable pickup coil. So I drilled 2 holes in its mount and rotated it CLOCKWISE about 10 degrees. When I tested these CDI's in the pic...they actually have an advance curve. So I set my timing back and put one of these on. Ebay has them for 2 and 4 stroke engines and one wholesaler I deal with. Also tvacman on here has the one in the pic and this one in the link..Both actually have an advance curve. www.chinesepartswholesale.com/product_info.php?products_id=66934Glenn..  Attachments:
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Post by carasdad on May 10, 2013 21:41:33 GMT -5
IMHO, Dash lights should always be leds. Problem with those is, that the leds take 3.3-3.5V, and the battery is 12-14V, meaning, you either need 4 LEDs in series, or plug a resistor behind the led. The resistor will have losses. On a dash, you could actually install 2 or 3 white or blue leds behind the speedo/tacho, and 1 or 2 red led to light up the speedo or tacho pointer (to give the pointer another color). You could easily replace the helper lights, or directional (parking) lights with LEDs. The blinkers is another thing, as I've read that changing them to LEDs causes them to blink too fast. I personally would not change headlight to LED, unless the beam can be directed. Much like the halogen bulbs with lenses, if they have LEDs with lenses, that could direct the beam, that would be interesting. But as far as headlight housing, that can direct LED light, that's still not working out very well... I have an all led dash and blinkers. (swapped out the standard relay for one made to flash leds.) Ok...cough it up...you know...the link to that relay for the flashers. Not that cagers see or acknowledge our flashers...but even the brightest filament bulbs you can buy for them..are super anemic..  Also which blinker bulb base do you have..the T10/194 press in..or the twist in base ones?. |
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gear ratio?
by: carasdad - May 10, 2013 21:31:12 GMT -5
Post by carasdad on May 10, 2013 21:31:12 GMT -5
that would be a 44 count sir. on the big one that is, my gears dont ressemble the ones in your pic. they are identicle however to the ones i posted. the gears im changing are the middle set the small one that is pressed in to the bigger one. do you kinda get it. Ah ok..tx..now I know which engine style you have  ..as there are different versions of Minarelli's. You will make us a vid of your maiden voyage once you finish it up...right? Also takeoff speed...top speed..you know all those things we scooter nuts like to see and discuss. ;D |
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Post by carasdad on May 10, 2013 21:21:17 GMT -5
IMHO, Dash lights should always be leds. Problem with those is, that the leds take 3.3-3.5V, and the battery is 12-14V, meaning, you either need 4 LEDs in series, or plug a resistor behind the led. The resistor will have losses. On a dash, you could actually install 2 or 3 white or blue leds behind the speedo/tacho, and 1 or 2 red led to light up the speedo or tacho pointer (to give the pointer another color). You could easily replace the helper lights, or directional (parking) lights with LEDs. The blinkers is another thing, as I've read that changing them to LEDs causes them to blink too fast. I personally would not change headlight to LED, unless the beam can be directed. Much like the halogen bulbs with lenses, if they have LEDs with lenses, that could direct the beam, that would be interesting. But as far as headlight housing, that can direct LED light, that's still not working out very well... Here is my proof that pure white LED's and the blue and red ones you said to use..won't work properly...as detailed in my lengthy reply in this post up above. It where I explain partially the physiology of human sight..and the light wave frequencies we are able to detect. Here is a pic of the white LED's in the dark. The arrow points at an area that did not appear illuminated..but it was..however the camera angle did not capture it. The glare to the left is from our bright porch light. Dash sure looks bright...easy to see and SUPER clear huh? That was at a very slow idle...it gets lots more crisp and enhances the detail more just above idle. So why is it I can validate my posts with tangible facts and evidence..while all you have to support yours is speculation...assumption and guessing...which you put out there as factual? Btw..more facts..I did not need to connect any LED's parallel and use a resistor to harness the 12v so each bulb got 3.6v as you claimed they require. Also...STILL we wait for the link asked for...where the researchers found mixing 10w-30 with 10w-40 would yield more power and longer engine life. Ever so politely I would like to ask where your link to that and its evidence are? I know..and am sorry that it angers you..that I can validate what I say with facts and tangible evidence. I will explain the reason for that...it's easy..anything that is not factual...cannot be proven without visualization and physical proof.(Borrowed that from Albert Einstein) So anyway..I posted my evidence and facts..now it's your turn correct? It will be super simple...ALL THAT IS NEEDED...is a link to..or cut 'n paste copy of the research article detailing that mixing 10w-30 and 10w-40 oil increases engine power and longevity. You can do it..we are REALLY waiting for it..and I have faith in you.. Attachments:
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gear ratio?
by: carasdad - May 10, 2013 20:07:33 GMT -5
Post by carasdad on May 10, 2013 20:07:33 GMT -5
Ok..so the gears you are replacing are the ones the arrows show as primary? They were 13/52 and you are replacing them with the 14/32? What I am curious to know..is the tooth count on the big gear marked in the pic as secondary. Attachments:
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gear ratio?
by: carasdad - May 10, 2013 19:46:23 GMT -5
Post by carasdad on May 10, 2013 19:46:23 GMT -5
Scrappy under 2t 50cc performance. they only have those two sizes online I got mine by talking to a scrappy rep. Ah ok...so what were your gear teeth counts for both original sets? Is this a short case engine?..i.e. 10" tires?.. |
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Post by carasdad on May 10, 2013 19:41:28 GMT -5
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Post by carasdad on May 10, 2013 19:30:45 GMT -5
DX Good thinking Rob... |
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gear ratio?
by: carasdad - May 10, 2013 19:28:10 GMT -5
Post by carasdad on May 10, 2013 19:28:10 GMT -5
You do know the 14/32 primary is going to give you a 7.25:1 ratio if your secondary is the typical 13/44 which is 3.38.1 3.38.1 X 2.28.1= 7.25:1 If your primary is as you said 13/52 and secondary is 13/44 you started out with a 13.52:1 ratio. Going to 14/32 on your primary from 13/52 is a 46.37% increase...with a final ratio of 7.25:1...your gonna need a tractor to pull those gears!!!  10:1 to 11:1 is what most shoot for. If you are doing a secondary gear swap with that 14/32 and primary is 13/52...you will end up with 9.14:1 which is still really steep and huge jump up. 32.39% So what are your current stock gears...primary and secondary? Im actually doing the kind of gears you get pressed so it so i quess it would be the middle assembly. Got a link to the gears you ordered? That would help lots..and would like to see what ya got...and what ya paid. Gear sets for my longcase oddball Minarelli are 100+ dollars for 2 simple gears... |
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Post by carasdad on May 10, 2013 19:10:25 GMT -5
Running a 4T without a muffler is ok...as long as you don't mind running without an exhaust valve in the near future... Ya gotta have something or it will burn your exhaust valve....  |
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Post by carasdad on May 10, 2013 19:05:56 GMT -5
K...will look for one in the morning. Sorry..a 'No Go' on the pump...just have 2 of the ones ya don't need. |
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Post by carasdad on May 10, 2013 18:59:57 GMT -5
I always wanted a HondaCT90 that has 3 gears but looks like a moped . A buddy had one with knobbies and it was fun to ride 1969 model Fly Scooters sells a clone of that SO CLOSE to the original...ya won't notice until you get close. MSRP is $1,799..but shop I worked at and all other places sold them for $1,200. We took the powder blue model...got OEM Honda decals and rode it around the beach. Many old timers that used to own the blue version were even fooled and asked my boss at the time...how he kept it so pristine..  Here is a link to them.. www.motorcycle.com/specs/flyscooters.html |
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Post by carasdad on May 10, 2013 18:45:07 GMT -5
Either one that fits over the rubber where your feet go or the whole thing replaced? What scooter is it for? That would help us get you a resource.. Glenn |
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Post by carasdad on May 10, 2013 18:43:39 GMT -5
Millsc the shipping isnt free but its usually cheap I just bought a BBk and theres has jug,head,oil pump,and a few other things for $41.00 and I think the shipping was approx $7.00 which isnt to bad. Their shipping is very cheap...but sadly it is slow. About 10 days or more. So if you can wait...you will save money..but if you are in a rush to get back on the road..buy it elsewhere...  |
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